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I Forge Iron

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Fleamarket report: 1 ballpeen, 1 crosspeen hammer US$1 apiece, 4 soldering coppers $5, small rockbreaker digging rod $3

Yesterday I helped a fellow smith pick up a band saw from an old junk filled garage, and this is what followed me home, some letter and number punches, and some old tractor drags or something, not sur

I have a smallish spalling hammer I "converted" into a straight pein and the balance isn't good. the Face side is too heavy making it darned tiring to use. I have given thought to cutting the face sid

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Yup, driveshaft. And yup, tube is hollow. 

Better the driveshaft get twisted up then the other expensive parts ;) usually the u joints blow out but if you had a solid shaft spinning around under your car you'd flip. 

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1 hour ago, hamerhead73 said:

Foot powered forging hammer.  Does anybody know anything about it?

That is WAY cool.  Very very rare, and that one is a design I've not seen before.  Taper and flat die, and a shear blade behind it.  What's inside the tube?  Coil spring or something pneumatic?

Totally jazzed about that, please show us more!

 

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That is a wicked cool treadle hammer. Does it still work? Look for oil holes on the pivots and give her a squirt on each side.

I think you get today's GREAT SCORE award. That fork lift IS there loading it in your pickup truck. YES?

Frosty The Lucky.

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13 hours ago, hamerhead73 said:

Foot powered forging hammer.  Does anybody know anything about it?

So, there's some kind of mechanism inside the cylinder that compresses when you step on the treadle, and then pushes the arm back up when the treadle is released? The top picture kind of looks like it's a spring, but is there a pneumatic cylinder as well?

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Drive shafts being hollow they are prone to harmonic noise. To dampen that noise they are sometimes filled with something, like Styrofoam. So if you plan to cut one use a saws-all and cut of one of the yokes off to see inside, before taking the cutting torch to it. 

Interesting fact, the yokes are welded on by spinning the shaft and the yoke in opposite directions. When enough heat builds up from friction they are "jammed together" and get what i have always called a "work weld" to hold them together.  

Oh for anyone who does not know the yoke is the ends with the 2 holes to mount the u-joint into. 

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2 hours ago, BillyBones said:

Drive shafts being hollow ........

This may well be the case in some instances but not all, All my prop shafts are both hollow and arc welded (speculation on which type of arc welding) and include a sliding joint.

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No not all. The ones i have run into have been mostly luxury cars. I am just saying that if it is of unknown origin it is better safe than sorry before you cut one open. That run of the mill Chevy truck is most likely hollow, but it is hard to tell the difference between that and a Cadi shaft. 

 

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Found a decent (smaller) anvil now after the already mentioned 75lbs ASO disaster. A 150lbs German pattern and an UAT again.

On the pictures hi looks incredible pretty. No really a bargain at 300 dollares. Will check everything this time by myself. Only drawback is the small hardy hole (<1in) so not all of my hardy tools will fit and I have to rework some hardy’s or make them new.

Wish me look when 'it followed my home' this weekend. Cheers, Hans

ASO Hans.jpg

UAT 70kg.JPG

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Thanks JHCC, have to drive about 180 miles because the seller lives on the oposite side of Belgium. Hope the holes are go through the anvil, and/but find them very often filled/stocked with some piece of mild steel or mud. My 250lbs UAT was one of them. Will keep you informed. Cheers, Hans

PS. did you forge some pieces on the treadle hammer yet? 

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