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I Forge Iron

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Fleamarket report: 1 ballpeen, 1 crosspeen hammer US$1 apiece, 4 soldering coppers $5, small rockbreaker digging rod $3

Yesterday I helped a fellow smith pick up a band saw from an old junk filled garage, and this is what followed me home, some letter and number punches, and some old tractor drags or something, not sur

I have a smallish spalling hammer I "converted" into a straight pein and the balance isn't good. the Face side is too heavy making it darned tiring to use. I have given thought to cutting the face sid

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Got a post vise with 6" jaws. The only markings on it is "100" on one of the jaws. I'm guessing it means 100lbs, because the vise is heavy... Bought it for only $20. Gotta make a spring in a mount for it though.

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So my father-in-law told me once he wants to show me something, and I can decide then whether I want it or not. 

As you can see from the pictures it was really hard to resist. So I did not. He even got it delivered to my shop. I really can not complain.

It's an antique top belt driven lathe from 1920's. In working condition, only have to install the top belt axle and the new main motor (5 kW) above the machine. And I need some big belts.

 

 

 

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I stopped in a fellows shop a month ago and ask if he had any 30 gallon steel drums. He said he would save them for me. Two 30 gallon drums came home today. One with a loose lid and one with factory crimp lid. The 2 quarts of clean oil were a plus :)

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This little stainless steel fella was given to me. It measures about eleven and a half inches long and seven and a half in diameter (or thereabouts). Was thinking maybe a small propane forge... so I'm gonna post them in the Forge, Gas section.

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Nice line shop lathe Gergely, you lucky dog. I know it was shipped like that but never NEVER leave the key in the chuck, any key and chuck, it's very dangerous.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks Frosty and IronDwarf!

 

I consider myself lucky on this. 

And thanks for the chuck tip - I don't know almost anything about lathes, but it's time to change that! Unfortunately it will take some time til I get it working. I have to build some sort of top axle holding structure. Then turn the whole thing 90' clockwise, and it weights 1,4 tons. Only after that I can learn the how to-s.

 

Greetings

 

Gergely

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Hi Robert,

 

That sounds like a very good idea. I just don't know how: 

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The headstock material is in the way on both sides of the spindle cone (are these the right words?). I don't want to cut off pieces from the headstock trying to preserve the original state of the whole.

Is there any way to make changes keeping the preserving in mind?

 

Bests:

 

Gergely

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Gergely, If you could use the weight of the machine base to rigidize one strut of the motor frame (i.e. have the two machine base feet sitting on top of a heavy piece of Angle Iron) you could build the drive assembly frame or cage off of that element.

 

Keeping in mind that my set-up is much smaller and simpler, and it's 5:15 am here and my brother is is on his way to pick me up for a five day road trip to Turkey Texas.  otherwise I would go take a picture.

 

The motor is under-slung, and is the lowest element in the assembly, swivelling on a hinge to provide tension.

 

Sketch out the possibilities before ruling out the overhead concept. Hang the imaginary parts in the air first, then sketch the elements to hold them there.

 

Good Luck, Robert

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Try to keep track of your time on the lathe, if you have any other interests.  For iron workers lathes are more seductive than video games are for kids. 

 

 

 

 

Measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk, cut with an axe.

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Oh sorry Gergely, just got a better look at your new pictures and I see that the back-gear shaft completely interferes with any type of rear mounted drive. That's what I get for posting in a rush. And yes, Thomas, the orientation of all four base feet is critical to achieving good tram of the machine.

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Level smooth concrete floor under it. Flat belts like it was designed to use are laced together, the only reason to pull the shaft is if something is wrong with it, say bent. The bearings are probably similar to engine main and rod bearings, if you pull the guards you'll  see the bearing caps. You can probably adapt engine bearings if it needs bearings, they're soft enough to reform, they'll just need oil ports and a groove. Easy greasy.

 

You'll probably need to make up a jack shaft to run a motor under or  behind the lathe, no sweat it was done all the time. Modern belts can be had that are like rubber link belts so you can make any length you need. I'd be tempted to try a rubber wheel drive like you see on tire hammers, I can't think of a reason it wouldn't work a treat.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Gergely, if you check in with the guys at owwm.org, I'm sure they can tell you everything you'd want to know about your lathe and how it works.  I hate going to that forum because it makes my tool addiction flair up something fierce.  

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Vaughn OWWM was my original money pit I love the old Milwaukee Delta tools my shop is full with working machines that are begging for a restore. Forging has taken my interest for the last couple of years (only 1 woodworking project complete)

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