58er

Mace

27 posts in this topic

Friend wanted a mace made.....

here is my attempt so far. 

Forged ball from 4"x5" cylinder. 

Just need to weld spikes, make handle/chain and assemble. 

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How much does it weigh?  Medieval ones were surprisingly light and they got their impact from speed rather than being slow and heavy.  Now Hollywood often has gone for ridiculously large weapons and video games/anime even worse (I saw one estimate for the cloud sword as being over 400 pounds if made from steel...I could take someone wielding that on with a dull bamboo chopstick and win!)

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This will be a beast. I suggested making a hollow sphere for the ball but the guy insisted on a solid ball. 

The ball weighs about 20 #

hehehe. 

 

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Is the chain long enough for the ball to hit the hand holding the haft?   Longer or shorter works better. (Don't ask me how I know this...)

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He wants 12" long chain. 

Not sure if it will hit hand or not. 

Im not sure how functional it will be. 

I know I can't go wrong if I build it to his specs. 

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Doesn't the chain make it a flail rather than a mace?

I hope you're charging enough to make the lesson memorable. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Wow. Reminds me of a weighted staff I made years ago - I thought I was pretty good with it til I clocked myself on the head - I'm glad it didn't have spikes!

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Yes. Flail indeed. 

 

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If someone ever got hit with it they would be Flailing around for a while !

Interesting making the ball, how long did it take to cool down ?

 

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Have the customer sign a release acknowledging that this is for decoration only, and that you are not responsible for any injury or property damage that may result from any other use. 

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Yes.for sure.  Release already taken care of. 

Thanks.  What lesson are you referring to frosty

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2 hours ago, 58er said:

Yes.for sure.  Release already taken care of. 

Thanks.  What lesson are you referring to frosty

Charge him a LOT! If it's a wall hanger it should be hollow or it could fall on someone. If it's a user he has zero clue about the instrument he's having made. Either way this bit of education should be expensive so he'll remember it next time he gets a bright idea. I'd be thinking more than a thousand $.

How are you attaching the spikes? I'd be thinking barbed shank interference fit

Frosty The Lucky.

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I read some where that the originals were wooden balls wih iron spikes. That would keep it under a kilogram ( 2.2#) still, with an 18" handle and 6" of chain it would make a scull look like a melon vs the sledgomatic 

 

 

Speaking of maces, I haven't gotten my head wrapped around how the 4 flanged ones were forged

 

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3 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

I read some where that the originals were wooden balls wih iron spikes. That would keep it under a kilogram ( 2.2#) still, with an 18" handle and 6" of chain it would make a scull look like a melon vs the sledgomatic 

Certainly would be easier to build: just drill holes all the way through, and hammer in spikes a couple of inches longer than the ball's diameter.

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I should do very well on this one if it takes me the time I believe it will. 

As far as attaching spikes. 

My first thought is to forge them out and weld a 3/8 volt stud on the bottom of them, drill and tap ball where I'd like them and weld and blend them in. 

 

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I'd make a set tool that fit over the spike sort of like a specialized monkey tool. I'd forge the spike tangs with only a little taper but barbed like a hammer wedge or maybe like a sparse wood rasp. Heat the ball and punch the receivers a little too small for the tangs. Let it cool to around 400-500f  and using the monkey tool drive the COLD spike tangs into the receiver holes. 

When the two equalize you ain't going to get the spikes out. When sweating interference fit do NOT bring the receivers to red heat or it will stretch around the tangy thing and it'll be loose. You only want it expanded a few thousandths and if you REALLY want a tight fit, chill the female joint in alcohol and dry ice. The medieval equivalent would probably make it a winter job.

Frosty The Lucky.

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CRS I had one *GUESS* on how to make one: start with a wrought iron strip and fold it double in 4 places and forge weld the doubled section and carve to suit Finally heating and bending into a tube with the pointy bits out and forge weld the seam.  Seems to me that would be stronger than jump welding the flanges or brazing them on...

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Forged chain today. Made progress on handle. 

Hopefully spikes tomorrow. 

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Man, that guy is going to seriously hurt himself. I fooled around with a flail years ago, bruised a few ribs, and decided to stick to non-articulated weapons. The head only weighed about 2 lbs and I likely could've killed myself if I had been a little less-careful. This monster's going to make a serious impression (pun intended).

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On 2017. 07. 10. at 1:43 AM, ThomasPowers said:

CRS I had one *GUESS* on how to make one: start with a wrought iron strip and fold it double in 4 places and forge weld the doubled section and carve to suit Finally heating and bending into a tube with the pointy bits out and forge weld the seam.  Seems to me that would be stronger than jump welding the flanges or brazing them on...

I have read about one museum piece that the flanges were forge brazed.  Although lots of the flanged maces were mainly prestige items and not as much every day weapons. That very piece could have been one of those decorative ones.

Bests:

Gergely

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finished.

its a beast 

definitely display only disclaimer  

 

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