templehound

Riged back and bone

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The blade of this Puukoo is made of 1.2419.05 (130WCrV5) tool steel and has 90 mm blade length and a riged back.

The handle is copper and bone with the tang riveted on the butt.

Overall length measures 210 mm.

cheers

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That's another work of art!  How did you make the "button" that embellishes the riveted tang?

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On 7/3/2017 at 10:30 AM, Lou L said:

That's another work of art!  How did you make the "button" that embellishes the riveted tang?

Thanks a Lot for Your reply, Lou L!

They are made easy without a lathe.

In this case I took copper  2 mm thickness, M3 thread on the tang and a cordless screwdriver.

There are only e few fhings to be aware of......

keep the scribed compass line single and thin

dont roll it while grinding, push down in facetes

coming near the scribed line change from coarse grit to grit 100-150

keeping pushing down facetes until You reach the scribed line as even and near as possible.

attach it to the screwdriver and go to slack belt grinding

start it running before You hit the belt.

after rounding go to an angle and give it a bevel

The more precise You prepare, the more round it gets.

 

Cheers

 

 

The software keeps confusing the sequences of the images....with everytime editing it gets worser.....well,

You have to pick Your sequence, bro

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Another lovely blade.  Haven't seen a single one of your pieces that I wouldn't be proud to own, or even more proud to have made.

Thanks for sharing your process for making the buttons.  While I'm unlikely to use a similar method, being lucky enough to have inherited a small vintage Unimat, I am still curious why you tapped the disk if you were going to rivet it.  Was that just to allow you to hold it more easily in your drill press?

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Thank you kindly for you detailed reply.  Your method seems actually achievable!  This is something I would like to learn to do.

 

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13 hours ago, Latticino said:

Another lovely blade.  Haven't seen a single one of your pieces that I wouldn't be proud to own, or even more proud to have made.

Thanks for sharing your process for making the buttons.  While I'm unlikely to use a similar method, being lucky enough to have inherited a small vintage Unimat, I am still curious why you tapped the disk if you were going to rivet it.  Was that just to allow you to hold it more easily in your drill press?

Thank You Latticino!

Some steels do not flow easy while riveting.They form a mushroom difficult and do not press on the disc satisfactory and sometimes it 

results in little, clattering noises when knocking with the finger knuckle on the blade or handle.....or even clatter loud enough when they are dropped on a desk.

If that happens the riveting of the knife still can be well executed quality, only some tiny tensions causing this sounds....but it sounds like less quality and I really dont like this...

Sometimes it can be put right with stronger pening blows but steels does not drift that long, easy and good like copper and the mushroomed tang starts to get hard...and the knife still makes the clattering sounds.

Tapping the discs helps to prevent this.

The butt of the handle must be well prepared, that helps of course the tight connection.

 I start to rivet the first 10 blows or so clockwise giving the tendency to tighten up the thread and push on the disc.

Riveting the tang to a nice even mushroom with good friendly edges it is hard not to hit the disc, which gives nasty dents, especially in copper.

I avoid this due a final, smaller steel disc without a bevel.While riveting the blows pushing down the edges of the mushroom, forming the same time the bevel of the steel disc.

I have some images of impressions with different knives but it is the same process.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Lou L said:

  Your method seems actually achievable!

 

Absolutely.....in consideration that they are made free hand they appear in a  good round shape.....actually of course they are not, but they look so.

Grinding to the scribed circle line is the most important step where You have to practice a little bit, try out material, grit size, tool options and the like, the rest makes the screwdriver.

I bet You are already able to do that.......:)

 

 

 

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Thats a beautiful blade. Great execution on the fabrication and finish of the handle.  I like your lathe, even if it is hand held!

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Amazing, really love this knife! I think it would be nice with a matching bone sheath, just an idea. 

Think I'm going to be trying to make something similar to this (doubt it will be of the same high standard) 

Thanks for sharing! :D

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On 7/20/2017 at 3:09 PM, MastaStan said:

Amazing, really love this knife! I think it would be nice with a matching bone sheath, just an idea. 

Think I'm going to be trying to make something similar to this (doubt it will be of the same high standard) 

Thanks for sharing! :D

Thanks MastaStan!......with a matching bone sheath is in deed a nice idea.Sadly it would raise the price of the knife merciless, and bound to custom agreements this one goes out with a leather sheath....but I will do that on another one.

Looking forward to Your Puukoo!

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Those Scandinavian sheaths are a world apart for themselves.

In most cases I need 2-3 attempts before I get it right ...difficult stuff

So it takes always several days or sometimes weeks before I am able to rouse myself up and complete the job.....

Leather is half tanned with a raw hide core and blade section is lined with wood.

Cheers

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Awesome work Templehound. I have an old puukoo ( never knew they were called that until recently) at home with basically that style sheath. I can't imagine how it is stitched so tight like that. 

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Wow. That really is something else!! I'm quite astounded. The stitching is amazing. Thanks for sharing.

 

 

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Artwork.  You are certainly a master of fit and finish.  You must have the focus and patience of monk.

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