dsabbagh Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I am brand new to working with brass so I am taking a 6" x 3" x 3/16" piece of the material for bending to a shop that offers forming services. The brass will be bent on a press break to a 90 with a 1" radius. I am wondering if I should anneal the piece before taking it to the shop or am I being overly cautious. Thanks in advance for any answers that are provided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 What state is it in now? If it was sold annealed you don't need to re-anneal it. If it's half or full hard you do need to anneal it. Whether it can be bent without failure does depend on which of the several hundred brass alloys it is of course! Do you know how to anneal brass? It's different from steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsabbagh Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Here is some more information. It's C360 and the invoice said it's half-hard so it's looking like I need to anneal it. I've never annealed brass but the information I've gathered from the internet says that I need to heat it to a dull red then quench it in water to quickly cool it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Isn't 370 a leaded brass and hard to bend without cracking? Search the internet for Bending 360 Brass and read the stuff under practical machinist and bladeforums. Do you have to use that alloy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsabbagh Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 I purchased a sizable piece C360 both out of need and unfamiliarity so I am stuck with it. I've been all over the internet and came to this site as another resource. I think I am going to anneal the piece and just see what happens. That is usually the best way to learn something in metalworking. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Ok, watch your temps! Many folks heat brass in a dark shop as the lowest glow is generally enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I Googled, "C 360 malleability" and got nothing about bending directly by looking at the link headers. Reading some of the links I recognized and selected I'm linking this page as all I need to know. Bear in mind I've been working metal all my life and what I need to know might not be what YOU need to know, people working a shop that does this kind of thing should already know what C 360 requires but if not print this page and it should do. https://alloys.copper.org/alloy/C36000?referrer=facetedsearch Free machining means it's alloyed to let cutters make clean cuts with a minimum of special effort. The lead in the alloy prevents copper alloys from snagging and tearing under the cutter. Otherwise you have to use a cutter with a specially dressed edge to prevent rally gnarley rough cuts. This page says 1/2 hard bends fair. So if they have a powerful press brake and can bend it all the way in ONE movement it should be fine. It'll be hard as the dickens after the bend so trying to make the bend in two breakdowns will probably break it. ONE hard push should be fine. To be sure, print the page or copy the link and give it to the shop foreman or lead man on the job. If they work a lot of non ferrous they already know or can interpret the info correctly. Better than I can but I do know enough to look and from this info look deeper if necessary. Be careful with this stuff it contains lead so heating it will take care and proper ventilation. 800f to anneal and you can let it air cool, water stopping the anneal is more to let you go right back to work and not have to wait. YOU should NOT have to worry about annealing, the shop should be able to do it as part of the job. Knowing these things and how to do the job with the material at hand is why you're sending it to a professional job shop. However, it's good to have a handle on what to expect, if they break it it's THEIR dime, NOT yours. Make them do it right or give your money back if they screw it up. This is a really straight forward job. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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