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I Forge Iron

Anvil Stand, Wooden, Routed Flat.


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I have been working on a new stand for my PW, since I purchased the anvil two years ago.

I gathered the wood, construction lumber, and started thinking about how I was going to start the project.

I started thinking my garage floor is level, checked with a level, should be able to get the wood glued together and flat.

Predrilled over size holes to allow for adjustments, should work.

Got some threaded Rod, nut, flats and locks, let's get started.

Spread the construction adhesive, slide all of the pieces together, snugged up the nuts banged the boards to make sure they were all sitting flat, tightened the nuts and added clamps, all,done right... Wrong !

The stand wobbled worse than if I didn't even try to square it up during the gluing and clamping, what to do next !

In another thread about leveling an Anvil Stand, Steve posted a method he used with a router to level.

Thanks to Steve and his write up with pictures I attempted his method and it turned out very well, a level stand.

Note:  My pictures are,too large to upload, I need to find a way to make them smaller.

First I took a set of Saw Horses, reenforced the lower shelves with 3/4" plywood and some 2x4s to hold the shelf in place.

Picture 1 goes here !

I then added strips of wood to the tops of the saw horses to add height to the top to clear he Sand and setup the Router with angle iron slides so it can move back and forth on the wooden strips.

I then placed the block of wood I call an Anvil Stand on the lower reenforced shelf, plumbed it and checked the bottom, facing upward, to find where the the high points were and marked the block low spot as the starting point.

I set the router to one third the amount I wanted to remove and started the process of moving the router back and forth on the block of wood, proceeding slowly, three-eighths of an inch cuts across the block and cutting from the same side each time.

Picture 2 goes here !

Three passes on the bottom of the stand ended in a reasonably flat surface.

From here the block was flipped so the top could be cut flat.

Again we got started by checking the plumb of the block, it was not perfect but the bubble was within the level lines, and as it turned out it was off the same amount the Saw Hoirses were off, so I'm good, found the low point and marked it.

After three passes with the router, taking one third cuts, all from the same side across the block, the top was flat and parallel to the bottom, great !

Picture 3 goes here !

Any other pictures go here !

As it turns out it was a time consuming process, easier than I thought to get it done, and I am a very happy metal bender.

 

I will try to reduce the size of my pictures and ask an Admin to post them in the Thread... sorry !

GrevB

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said:

Note:  My pictures are,too large to upload, I need to find a way to make them smaller.

Easy to do yourself: 

1. Post the original picture.

2. Save the post.

3. Click <Edit> and then doubleclick on the picture.

4. A box will open that allows you to edit the picture. I usually resize to between 400 and 600 pixels wide, depending on the subject and how much detail there is to be seen (more detail = bigger picture).

5. Click <Save> to preserve your changes.

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Do a "Save As" in your files and edit for size and give it a new name. Most any operating system has a way to alter file sizes and doesn't care what kind of file it is. It's how I've reduced pics since I had to change OS from DOS to Windows. The Save As trick has worked under every OS I've used.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Now I can't edit because it has been too long !

Ive asked to have the thread deleted...  I started another, that one isn't any better, the pictures, which I planned to edit are now gone... Where oh where did the pictures go !

Not happy with the site at the moment, some thing has to change on this edit time out thing !

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