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I Forge Iron

Jasen's smithing progression.


Jasent

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i love the bottom fuller on my anvil but I wanted a wider one. So I made one today from axel. Also got another set of bolt tongs started. This set is definitely the most Identical set I've made to date.  Getting better each set. New slitter is awesome! Split this set very fast and easy.  Almost ready to rivet. 

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Today I watched @jlpservicesinc hollow bit tong video.great video jlp. Gave me an idea to make a round bottom swage to do my rivet heading like she does.  So I made one in 1/2"  next will be 3/8" if I like this method.   Started with 3 1/2" of 1 1/2" axel. Will test it out tomorrow if I get any forging time. 

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Nice job..  That will work great for heading..  Plenty high off the anvil.. And thanks.. :) 

  I"ve found with the new Peddinghaus the face is over 1" wider than the 175HB and the swage sits a little to low or to close to the anvil face so I had to adjust the way I was hitting it..   For me ideally I like a swage that goes all the way across the face for a bottom tool.. This give perfect edge to edge coverage and comes in handy with drop legs and such.. 

 

Be sure to put about an 1/16" radius on the inside round corner so you don't end with cold shuts as the rivet head forms.. I have one side with 1/16" radius and one with a little bigger radius..  

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Will deff radius those edges. Thank you for the tips!

4 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Nice job..  That will work great for heading..  Plenty high off the anvil.. And thanks.. :)

Be sure to put about an 1/16" radius on the inside round corner so you don't end with cold shuts as the rivet head forms.. I have one side with 1/16" radius and one with a little bigger radius..  

 

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Got some work done today. Finished drifting my soft hammer. Fits the handles ok after a quick touch up with the rasp.  

 

I finially finished the hot cut I made at class. 

Started straighting some coil and decided to make some hot punches and a small fuller punch. Then figured I may as well make some punch tongs.   Radiused the edges on the bottom swage and made my first rivet with it. Also made the rivet for the tongs

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Very nice..  When you form or upset for the rivet you are looking for about 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of material in the upset before setting the base at the shank..  Really about 1.25 to 1.5 is closer to the mark..  1X leaves the heads a little thin.. 

With the open die method (open swage method) you really need the 1.25-1.5 with a good shoulder at the shank to upset material junction.. The good shoulder just makes everything a little easier.. 

Last tongs I made the rivet head came out a little to tall.. but it all worked out..     Nice work.. 

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Made a set or flatter today. Idk which you would call it. Plan to use it on the feathers to taper the quill as it gets near the tip.   I think it will improve the looks a bit.  I got a request for 9 feathers so I may take a swing at the texturing die tomorrow.  Should I radius the edges of the face more?

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A set tool is typically flat faced with a square faced edge.. But, they also made them with radius edges as well..  It was typically used with a bottom set..   I radius the off sides so I could use it as a multi set..        If the radius of the face is large enough it would actually move into the realm of fuller..   A set tool is designed to make a flat face up to a square shoulder.. A very particular function..   

Nice work.. 

for the feathers a spring swage would offer the best advantage.. 

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What I need is a flat face up to a slight radius. I want to tapper the center quill to a point instead of hammering it out image.thumb.jpeg.2ce97ce021c899f836a14fe466758c44.jpeg

i don't like terminating it so wide. I figure I'll use a small fuller  to  set the shape and set down the humps pushed away from the quill then once the quill is set texture in the veins.   Does this make sense at all?

 

spring swage?  I'm not sure how to do that with out a welder or ever doing a forge weld. Any tips on doing this would be great. 

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2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Drill and bolt the pieces together for one type...  I once built one to hold a rounded edged chisel with no welding, used a bungee as the retraction "spring" and a couple of ubolts to hold the chisel; wow that's been 30 or so years ago....

I like it. 

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