Antony N. Lord Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Hi all - I'm in the process of setting up my forge at my workshop so I don't have to go down to the group shop anymore I picked up an Australian 224lb BK (Bradford and Kendall) some time ago which needs some minor work. One of my first questions is to the construction of this anvil - the interwebs have conflicting reports as to if they are cast as one piece or have a separate face plate. Having a close look I can see no lines, protrusions or discontinuities that suggest there is a separate plate. Majority interweb consensus suggests one piece casting... It seems previous owners have done some fairly stupid things including hitting the heel with the old gas axe (probably while resting something on it). I'm concerned with extended work on the heel that the corner cut all the way to the pritchel hole is going to chip off / fail down the line. Worse is the middle of the far edge - looks like it had some kind of damage and has been badly welded. Whatever got used chips like bullets if struck... I spoke to a couple of the professional 'smiths locally (one of which is also a spec welder). He suggested simply vee-ing the heel and grinding back the edge to remove the bad weld material, preheating the anvil, then simply MIG welding with standard low hydrogen wire, peening each bead then finally leaving anvil to cool in a box full of lime... Any thoughts? The Gunther / Schuler repair guide seems to be the most definitive even though Stoody rods aren't commonly available here (I'm sure the local welding supplier can match based on spec). I am confident with MIG / TIG and can pull off a stick weld on a buzz box when needed. Thanks in advance, Anton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsteve Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 the BKs are great Anvils, they are made from cast steel and generally ring like a bell unless bolted down by the two holes in the base. While we all want our Anvils to be in good order, it is easy to focus on their imperfections. Id be tempted to just get a flap disk and round over a bit on the side with the damage - and use the rest of it thats fine and see how you go. My 224 BK is fairly thick out at the heel near the pritchel hole and its not a place where you belt it too hard anyway. I'd just live with the gouge as I don't think its really a concern apart from it visually being there... can we have a pic of the entire anvil?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Overall photos of the anvil would be helpful. What does the damage that is present on the anvil keep you from doing now? Have you tried to use another part of the anvil instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 chipping and shrapnel does sound like a BAD repair to the edges and as cast anvils tend to have edge problems and the far edge tends to get worked more it's not a big surprise. Rather than redo the repair on the edge I'd be prone to grind a smooth curve there getting rid of the prior repair and leaving a built in fuller to work with. Now the Pritchel damage I would be prone to have fixed. Due to autoquenching the are may now be brittle---check the sides of the cut with a file! Also the gap will telegraph into all the work done in the pritchel. A Vee out, proper preheat, proper weld and proper cool would help in my opinion. Make sure to use temple sticks or an IR temperature detector for the preheat and you can heat from the heel area as the whole anvil doesn't need preheat/post heat for a heel repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 That's my take too. Dress the edges is all they need. The torch cut is the sort of thing that really REALLY gets me steamed. I'd be inclined to weld it up, Thomas outlines the process I won't repeat it. If you take it to a professional welding shop be sure to tell them it's a tool steel face not something they can just burn rod into. Okay, it's not REALLY tool steel but this is an occasion where a little exaggeration isn't such a bad thing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antony N. Lord Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Here's a shot of the overall anvil. I got a file and tested normal / cut / repaired areas - very similar hardness - if anything the areas around the oxy damage are slightly harder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 wow, with the close up pics the chips looked much bigger! that anvil is in really good shape! I wouldn't work much about the cut on the heel, I just wouldn't use the Pritchel hole very hard, you can always use a bolster plat or dialer hole over the hardy hole if need be. Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 I agree with little blacksmith, not worth all the troulbe for that small amount of damage. Besides that far side where the damage is would be a good pace for a decent radius. The edges on BK anvils are way to sharp and prone to damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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