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...or otherwise those with experience.  

Mild steel like from the big box stores , can it be hardened?  I want to make a spring fuller tool and while I realize the actual spring part isn't that critical, if the tool is made of one piece and the curve between the top and bottom fuller is hammered flat and curved, will it work harden and will quenching it while hot lock in that hardness?  I guess that's two questions actually, will it work harden and be a bit springy and can it be hardened at all by quenching?

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My spring fullers at mild steel, work fine.

Even if you were to make it out of spring steel, you wouldn't want to harden it only, or else it would shatter the first time you use it. I wouldn't even bother heat treating it.

                                                                                                                        Littleblacksmith

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My spring fuller is made from spring steel, but it's normalized, not tempered.

Mild will work, but will probably deform under repeated hammering over time. Spring steel won't as much, but will be at slightly higher risk of work hardening.

TL;DR: use either.

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Okay thanks for the replies. I really didnt think I needed spring or tool steel for a fuller but wondered if the mild steel could or should be hardened in some way. And now that the fuller question is settled, for curiosities sake...

Can mild steel be hardened? Is there ever a need to do so?

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1 hour ago, John McPherson said:

Yes. Look up Gunter's Superquench. Useful only for mild steel. I first used it to make dinner triangles ring instead of thud.

I've heard rumors of people using iced brine to harden mild steel, but I've never tried it myself. Would be interested in hearing from people who had.

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Note you have asked about mild steel and then about the steel from big box stores which is generally A-36 which may or may NOT be mild steel---but is often called mild steel (vs real mild steel like 1018 or 1020)

A36 will often harden appreciably if subjected to a severe quench. iced brine or super quench for example. A really mild mild steel will not---like 1005.

If you work harden steel and then heat it above the dislocation climb temperature to quench it then all the work hardening disappears *before* you quench it.

Superquench on many A-36 steels will make it tougher; but will not harden it into a proper blade; it will make it more wear resistant though.

As automotive coil spring is easily and cheaply found and works very well in normalized state It is what I would use for this tooling and not try to go to the extremes to work an alloy outside of it's "comfort zone".

 

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I'm not totally in the dark about hardening and heat treating having been making knives for a while, mostly using 1095 and 0-1. But pounding hot steel on an anvil is something new to me and I was just wondering if the mild steel can be hardened.  Now I find there's differing kinds of "mild" steel.  Well duh, I should have known that given the numbers of knife steels available!   Thanks for the info.

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