Extending Trailer Ramps.....

[VaughnT]

Seems like people are always asking me to do things that are outside my bailiwick rather than just being happy with a simple hook.

Recently, a good customer asked me if I could add an extension to the ramps on the trailer he uses to haul his semi-heavy equipment.  It's a new trailer and he has to test it to see if the backhoe and other things will be okay as it is... but he's planning on it not being.

So he wants to know if I can extend the ramps by 12" or 16" to make the slope more gradual.

The frame of the ramp is heavy-wall channel with 2x2x3/16" angle iron cross members.  My idea was to create the extension with the same type of channel and put gussets at that span the joint at least 6" on either side.  Maybe it would only need one gusset on the inside of the channel?

Honestly, the only part that worries me is the technical details about the weight rating and such.  I can put the welds down with a reasonable sense of quality, but I just don't know about the math on weights, leverage, etc.  If I think about it long, I get the idea that it's not a good idea.  But, maybe, this kind of thing is done all the time and I'm just not aware of it.

So.... can it be done?  is it a good idea?

[Daswulf]

Possibly apples to oranges, but in repairs on vehicles we sometimes will sleeve the two parts being joined on structural areas. So I do know with spot welds on either end of the sleeves and but welded at the seam that it is much stronger but I have no true idea on your application if it would be enough. 

Maybe that's just a vote of a bit of a vote of confidence in your idea.  

[Alan Evans]

I have recently made and bought some ramps for a couple of different vehicles and getting the angle right is a bit of gamble. I did find that the little tracked digger will almost climb a vertical wall and the tele handler, although it grumbles, will cope with a steep pitch. The little lawn tractor could climb okay but had so little clearance under the mower deck that it kept grounding on the top of the ramp...So maybe your customer will find he does not need them extending.

The crucial thing with trailer ramps for plant is the angle they are cut to at the base...fine if you are loading on a flat concrete yard, but on uneven ground the heel of the ramp can touch and when the plant gets on it it tries to lift the ramp and/or trailer. I got round the problem on mine with a couple of simple wood blocks under the toe of the ramp which the tracks could climb without un hooking the ramp from the trailer.

In your customers instance I was wondering if you could make a self contained and self supporting ramp that pivoted off the toe of the existing ramp. It would adjust for uneven ground and remove any problems you have with trying to maintain the strength of the ramp with gussets and or plates. Structurally the toe of the existing ramp just needs to sit on top of the new ramp unit. Positive location pegs or a hinge system would work, each having advantages.

Alan

 

[Dave51B]

 I always hated those ramps...to heavy to begin with......and he wants to make them longer (heavier)? Is this on a dovetail trailer? Tell him to get off his wallet and buy a tilt top......lol                Dave

[John McPherson]

The problem is simple physics, but a major engineering headache that has been around since Ogg threw a log across the creek so that Mrs. Ogg would not get her feet wet.

The strength of the materials added may be the same as the existing ramp, and the welded joint may even be stronger with added gussets. BUT: the ramp is now significantly weaker overall. By changing the overall length, the ramp is now more flexible and prone to buckling. You can now only use it with lighter loads, or beef it up in other ways to support the load. Which means even heavier and more awkward to remove, place and stow.

An engineer would get all hot and sweaty with charts, graphs, spreadsheets and data tables, but any reasonably bright 5th grader can grasp the concept with a few simple props. Then he can use small words and explain it to us blacksmiths and welders.

Prove it to yourself. Get a couple of blocks or bricks and a 2 x 4 or larger board. Rig up a simple balance beam with the bricks two feet apart. Walk across it. It will support even an old fat guy like me. Repeat the experiment moving the blocks apart one foot at a time, until the board bends so much that it scares you, or fails catastrophically, and then you will realize why you did not want to try this between two ladders whilst painting the second story of your house.

Now you know why experienced haulers pay big bucks for lower deck trailers, dovetails, self storing ramps, tilt beds and all the rest. If you only move it once a year to take to the farm show or the dealer for maintenance, cheaping out may work for you. But if you trailer equipment for a living, your back will thank you.

If you trailer equipment like backhoes for a living, and still don't want to pay for an adequate towing package out of the gate, then I will walk away laughing if you ask me to assist your youTube moment of glory.

Oh, and FYI. By altering the ramp, you now assume all of the legal risk associated with any future failure.  The original manufacturer's liability ceases the instant anyone modifies it in any way. 

[Alan Evans]

As per John's post. The Physics, the structure and the liability is covered by resting the toe of the existing ramp on what I described as a self supporting ramp extension. A wedge for want of a better description.

Alan

Something similar in form to these which the toe of the existing ramp can rest on. The only issue is then making a positive lateral location system to link the ramp to the wedge. Gravity deals with the load.

[Jackdawg]

Tell him you need to see him moving all the bits of gear on and off the trailer via the ramps so you can judge what needs to be done, with a bit of luck you can then say say

"well lookee there, ramps don't need changing at all"

[Stash]

I had 5' ramps on my equipment trailer, and every time I went to load my Kubota backhoe the frame of  the back of the hoe would drag on the ground as  the front end hit the top of the ramp.After getting a quote for over $500 (US) for fabricated ramp extensions, I set the ends  of the ramp on a chunk  of 6x6 timber and set a few 5' heavy planks on the 6x6. Presto change-o I had a 10' ramp at a lesser angle. Problem solved, with stuff I had lying around. I had a ready source for 6x6 chunks and heavy planks so when they wore out , .......

'If all you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail'

Steve

[notownkid]

11 hours ago, John McPherson said:

Oh, and FYI. By altering the ramp, you now assume all of the legal risk associated with any future failure.  The original manufacturer's liability ceases the instant anyone modifies it in any way.

Amen to that.  If he wants longer ramps buy new longer

21 hours ago, Dave51B said:

Tell him to get off his wallet and buy a tilt top......lol                Dave

This makes the most sense just looking for trouble adding onto ramps for HD equipment in my  opinion 

[Marc1]

I don't think that one foot addition to the ramp will make any noticeable difference. In fact I know it will make no difference. May be at 2' it will start to feel less steep. 

The additional weight will be a consideration but if you want to do it, butt weld and gusset on each side and centre of the channel will be stronger than the channel itself.

Or ... get a couple of wood blocks.