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Canedy Otto Blower Value


G-ManBart

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Hi Team! I got one of these when I bought an anivl off of a guy in Northern California. The fan does not engage when I crank the handle. How do I get the gear box off? I’ve taken all screws off but I don’t want to do anything with forth. I figured I’d consult the Team first. 

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I have the same blower and the same problem and it is currently lying on my bench semi-assembled and I can't figure out how to solve the issue.  When assembled the handle turns but the fan does not spin.  If it was a belt drive I would say that it felt like the belt was slipping.  As best as I can tell, the gears of the first gear, attached to the handle, are not properly engaging the teeth of the next gear in the drive train on the way to the fan.  When disassembled the gears appear to have very little wear and are sharp and crisp.  There are no bearings or bushings internally.  Someone worked on the interior prior to me since one of the original bolts has been replaced by a modern, plated bolt. I have thought about putting a bronze bushing on the handle shaft to see if it makes any difference.

I hope someone can make a suggestion to help us.

BTW, to further disassemble, loosen the set bolt between 2 of the blades of the fan, remove the fan, and then lift the other side of the clamshell housing off.  After that, it is just a case of keeping track of the bolts and gears on the inside of the case.

Also, take off the oil pet cock on the side of the case while you work on it.  It is brass and easily damaged and not easily replaced.  Mine was broken off at sometime in the past and I have it replaced with a bolt until I can find a source for a replacement.

Good luck.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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I had the same issue with mine. Once you get the fan off, the whole gear train should lift out without anything going "boing". With mine, the handle shaft was spinning inside its gear. There seems to be no key- what it had was a small roll pin that went thru the hub (?) of the gear into a hole on the shaft. Over time the roll pin loosened up and shifted out of the shaft. I lined the holes up and reinserted the roll pin, good to go! Not so fast, bucko- before long the pin came loose again. Grrrrr! I pulled everything apart, tapped the pin back in place, setting it below the surface of the hub. I then peened the hole just a little bit with a center punch to close up the hole and locking the pin in place. No issues since. Hope this helps.

Steve

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The SLAG,

wishes to add an idea to avoid repairing and  reconstructing a mechanical device and have, for example, two or three screws, a spindle, and other small parts left over.

I devised a cunning 'plan'.

I take photographs of the device, as it is deconstructed,  and often mark the small bits. (with, for example, various colored nail polises.).

But you knew that already.

The real dodge that I wish to disclose is to get a sheet of styrofoam, sketch the devices components on the surface,  and press the screws  et al.  and small parts into the sketch.

The parts stay in place and are "connected" to the sketched drawing, on the styrofoam.

This idea may have been disclosed elsewhere, in the I.F.I. archives, but a little bid of repetition is not so bad.

We hope that helps,

Regards, from

SLAGMarg*, & Litzie**,

* the Marvelous,

** our house felid

 

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Lots of penetrating oil down the hole the locking bolt was in and along the shaft. Let it penetrate for a day or so. If, after gentle tapping fails to loosen the fan from the shaft fails to loosen it more drastic measures may be called for.  Such as, heating the fan hub with a propane torch or using a small gear puller (available at a hardware or automotive store).

Once you have it off use emery cloth or fine sand paper to clean any rust off the shaft and the inside of the fan hub before reassembly.

Incidentally, Stash's suggestion about gears not being locked to the shaft positively may well be what my problem was.  After disassembling it once again I didn't find any keys or locking pins as were Stash's problem, all the gears and shafts seemed to be press fitted without any locking devices.  However, the small gear on the 2d set (the one which engages the gear on the crank handle shaft) turned semi-freely on its shaft without turning its matched large gear on the same shaft.  So, I locked it to the shaft by using a center punch at the join of the gear and the shaft.  I still have to finish re-assembly to confirm that this solves the problem but I'm about 80% sure that this was the malfunction.  The small gear in question would seem OK but under the load of the whole gear train it would slip on its shaft and not transfer motion further on down the gear train.  Thanks, Stash.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

PS  From your photo it looks like the place where the fan hub meets its shaft is bunged up.  If the locking bolt that went in the hole shown in the photo is missing someone may have lost it and then locked the shaft to the fan hub by peening or otherwise distorting the metal at the shaft/hub junction.  If that is the case you will have to do some grinding there to remove the distorted metal so that the hub can slide off the shaft.  A Dremel or other high speed rotary tool with an abrasive burr is what I would use.  It will be a delicate job.  Be careful that you don't take more metal off than necessary.

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I use a file and be VERY careful that you don't break a vane strut off when working on it!!!  I also use a gear puller AKA a pulley puller.  I tend to wait a long time adding penetrating oil on a regular basis before getting "rough" with it.  I had a locked up blower, one of the ones made to have an oil bath. I put as much of a quart of plain atf in it that it would take and waited around 2 months before I started manipulating the fan with an old hammer handle: 1/8" shift each way, 1/4" shift each way, 1/2" shift each way, FULL TURN!  Cranked it a couple of hundred turns to get it loosened up, dumped and replaced the ATF, and raised the price considerably! (I already have several blowers I like and selling off extra stuff from the hoard paid for it + what I'm keeping and repair parts for my 1915 25# LG that was a keeper from the hoard.)

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I forgot to add what Thomas has mentioned, cheap penetrating oil.  Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50% with acetone has been tested and has performed as well or better than commercial penetrating oils such as "Liquid Wrench."  Patience is a key.  Take your time and be gentle.  A little force applied over time can be much better than a big, quick whack.  Remember, cast iron, such as the gear case and the fan hub is brittle and does not like sharp shocks and blows.

I did not suggest filing because it may be hard to get a file into the area needing removal but if you can that is a better technique.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Andy:  I looked at my fan which is close to or identical with yours and I believe you could file the hub/shaft junction without much problem.  I think I'd file down the distorted area until it looked like a clean, circular joint between the shaft and the hub and then use a gear puller after a generous application of penetrating oil and time for it to work.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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To report back on my blower repairs mentioned above:  Today I reassembled the blower with the gear locked to the shaft as mentioned above.  Getting all the shafts lined up with their bearing holes was fun but once I got it everything lined up it slid right into place.  The blower works a treat now.  Since this is an oil bath blower I'll pick up some automatic transmission fluid tomorrow and use that.

So, the moral of the story is that if the blower handle turns but does not turn the fan (and if you can feel a little drag on the handle like a belt slipping) suspect that one of the gears is turning on its shaft rather than being locked to the shaft and transmitting energy through the gear train.

I now have a fully operational larger forge which will become my primary solid fuel forge and my old, smaller, rivet/farm forge will become a teaching forge.  It has served me well for 42 years.  I think I have gotten my $25 purchase price out of it.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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On 1/23/2021 at 12:30 PM, SLAG said:

various colored nail polises.

I'm just catching up on this thread, normally I don't have anything to add but I HAVE to ask. Does wearing various colored nail polish help rebuild things, Slag? 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Mr. Frost,

Yes of course!*

It also helps the nail polisher person keep track of all the parts and their proper placement.

I no longer get lost.

My nail polish glows in the dark!

Thank you for asking.

Sincerity ,

SLAG.

* citizens see immediately above for context.

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