Richard L. Stanley Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Got in the shop after work. Reading several post about this I mocked this up? Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Nice. You have a small face with a lot of mass, and a larger face to use for straightening. Get them to a good height, and start forging! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanternnate Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Maybe two more 4x4s? My one concern is the rail piece only has stability through to the floor on one side. If you're working that other edge just supported by the jut out you might have some bounce/give that takes oomph out of your strikes. I have a rail track anvil sitting on 4 4x4s lashed together with a couple more 4x4s tacked on as feet like you have done, and even that still has a fair bit of give/rock/bounce when you get towards the ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard L. Stanley Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thanks. I need to weld a base plate on the drill bit and square/polish the top. As for the rail, would like to undercut the top and shorten the base. Rounding one end, for radiuses, any square the other for right angles. I'm putting two 4X6es 14" long, at a right angle to uprights to counter wobble, making the base 14" by 14". Trying to keep the base small so you can stand in close. Hopefully I can get the rail and bit at same height 33" to 34". Best part all this is scrap off the farm. <>< Duce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard L. Stanley Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Treated wood is soaked in copper sulfate it does contain trace amounts of arsnic. I'm assuming that anywhere you would smith would be well ventilated. Carbon monoxide from a gas forge or the carbon in the smoke of a coal forge is also toxic. Don't think the fumes from the sparks will pose a problem as my shop is well ventilated. That ain't rod, it's a drill bit for a cable style well drilling machine, (Bucyrus Erie 20W) made a 4" hole in the ground into a which 4" pipe/casing was driven. Yes it is solid and those grooves are fuller's/flutes for the casting to flow back up the casing to be baled out. Drilled through gravel, sand, clay, slammed into boulders, and through limestone. Don't know the alloy, but got to be tough stuff. Best part is that there's still another 20 foot stem and bit in the scrap pile.<>< Duce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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