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I Forge Iron

First pinless hidden tang kitchen cutter

Will W.

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Good day. This is the first hidden tang knife I've made, and also the first pinless knife. Overall length 13" (33mm). Blade is 5160, tempered for a single cycle at 375° for an hour, to attempt to save as much hardness as possible (it's not going to be cutting firewood after all). The bevels are at a ~10-15 degree angle, so it is very sharp. The handle is black walnut, sanded down to 1500 grit, and it feels really nice and smooth. I made sure to fit it very tight, and epoxied it on. Being my first hidden tang, I decided to follow the KISS prinicple on the design of the handle. It has a small copper bolster (hope I'm using that term correctly) which was also epoxied on. The handle and bolster both feel very solid. I made sure to take my time with this one, and frankly, I like it.

Despite my best efforts, my camera refuses to take decent pictures.

Any thoughts? Thanks. 


Will W







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Quite well. So I would say it fulfills it's purpose haha.

Functionally, all seems well. I don't really like how the plunge line got a little wobbly on both sides. I only have my darn angle grinder to work with, and it's hard to control that precisely. 

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Michael Cochran

I should have been more specific. I do have files. I use them to fine tune the general shape mostly. The files leave gouges, and I lightly clean those gouges off by using a flap wheel (sandpaper wheel) on my grinder (if I had been more patient and cleaned it with sandpaper, this problem would have been avoided). When I did my final few passes, I got a little careless and made the line a little wobbly. I tried to fix it but I didn't want to remove too much metal, it's thin as it is! Lesson learned: slow down even more. Also the third pic, I just noticed, makes it look like there's a grind mark right above the plunge line. That's just a reflection. No way I would leave that haha. I need to get a better camera if I'm going to post any more pics of anything. 


I just did some research on that. I've heard the term, but the technique is new to me. I'll try it in the future. Thank you for the tip. 

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Drawfiling needs a lot of patience. Trying to take off too much at once will definitely clog the teeth (what ThomasPowers calls "pinning", because the clogs look -- and scratch -- like little pins), but going light and cleaning often will give you good results. 

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Yeah, my files are pretty dirty. No doubt in my mind that they should be cleaned out. I never even thought that stuff trapped in them could create deep gouges like that, honestly. The moment you think you have something simple like files figured out, there's always more to be learned. 

My research said to use a single cut file. I assume a double cut would also create gouges using this technique, seeing as how you have teeth going the opposite way?

Interesting. Thanks for the info JHCC. I'm definitely going to try this in the future. 

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One thing I've picked up along the way that's very handy is a 65 year old industrial arts textbook on Metalworking.  Very handy when you want to solder stuff but are not quite sure of the "how"---- also filing, drilling, tapping, etc and so on.  IIRC it cost me US$1 at a yard sale...There was still metalshop in middle school when I went through but it lacked a "drill sergeant" instructor.

Actually I've picked up several of the old versions,"Farm Shop Practice", "General Metals", "Sheet Metal Worker's Handy Book", "Welder's Guide"...In my experience anything pre-1960 will have useful information as a given.  Post that date you need to check them out more carefully.

Note that the *really* old ones can be "interesting" when it comes to safety---hardening using  cyanide for instance and should be approached with caution so that you can  pass such information to your grandkids and great grandkids!

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