Zaxmyth Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 I'm a beginner blacksmith and I have made my own forge and anvil from scrap parts and thrift store purchases. The forge is awesome and I have no complaints about that investment but the anvil has some serious draw backs. I didn't know about this resource before I constructed it so I'm throwing this out to the forum to see if there is any advice on improving what I already have. I have read through many of the previous posts and all I hear is that rail anvils are worthless. I'm definitely a baller on a budget. This works and has many tool configurations that are extremely useful however it is noisy and has a depleted rebound. If there anything I can do to improve that? Here are a few pics... Let the beatings begin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Check this video for home made anvil. Cheap and quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Stephens Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Zaxmyth, Use what you have and learn! If you fill in the spaces between your anvil face and the rail with a couple of tubes of silicon caulking it should quiet it down considerably. Also bolting it down to stump tight will help, some. Find and connect with a local blacksmith group, they will be a big help in locating stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Rail anvils are not worthless; however their are many other easily and cheaply sourced anvils that are better. Besides which that is not a rail anvil, it is an anvil that was cobbled up using rail as a component. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.C. Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 I had to look close at the forge bowl..a rail spike clinker breaker? Cool idea. How well has it been working for you? That anvil will work, and when you get/buy/find a more solid anvil you will have a real appreciation for good rebound. I started on a 4 foot rail standing on end. Thought it was better than any anvil could ever be....until I tried other anvil styles. Still,I got a LOT of experience using that rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zaxmyth Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Thanks for the video and suggestions... All were very helpful... The forge is super solid and the rail spike Klinker breaker works awesome... The deck is an old lawnmower deck with a break router welded on. I burned my first few fires to remove the galvinization on the pipe fittings I used to attach the air system... Works great and total cost was 16 dollars for the pipe fittings. Anvil was completely free as I found the pieces walking the rail line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 I've used the broken knuckle from a railroad car coupler as an anvil before, had a flat and curves was absolutely free and a *much* better anvil as I picked it up than that. Also most RR property is owned by the railroads and there are very draconian laws covering their access and gleaning; (there actually are Railroad Police!) With the increased vigilance due to terrorism I cannot suggest that anyone "walk the tracks". I get my RR stuff at the scrapyard. Railways often go right through the center of cities hauling amazingly dangerous materials by the multi tons I'm happy they are looking out for them but I've know several friends who have had unpleasant run-ins with the RRP! (I also do not suggest to people that they admit to possible felonies on open forums no matter how common they may be done by folks.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zaxmyth Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Duley noted... My foraging days are done... Just looked into the local laws and I was completely dumbfounded... I had no idea but I guess it makes perfect sense... Thanks for the education. I'm going to have to tell the guy that have me that stuff that I'm not interested in acquiring anymore...fml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 I buy my "found" metal at the scrap yard for 20 cents a pound; people have already brought it all together for me to look through... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Lop off the tie plate on top of the rail for starters. What you have can still be used on end, or flat once the plate is removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Almost anytime you start welding to a hunk of rail you are going backwards. One, not full depth welds, two the track plate is medium carbon and the rail is high carbon. Take biggundoctor's advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Welcome aboard Zaxmyth, glad to have you. One of my favorite field expedient anvils is an axle mounted at YOUR working height on end flange up. The length of axle shaft under the hammer delivers excellent depth of rebound. This is how much reflected energy is returned to the work by the anvil. The speed of sound through steel means the hammer is still decelerating in the hot steel you're working on when the shock wave gets back from it's trip to the far end of the anvil. The more steel the more energy is returned. Don't give up on rail anvils, they make outstanding anvils. People who can't get good work done on a rail anvil just plain aren't very good. It's a poor work man who blames his tools. Check out Charles Stevens' posts on rail anvils, a little knowledgeable grinder work and you'll have an anvil to brag about. Believe me you'll still be learning how to use the first couple before you need to grind new ones. Mount it on END, depth or rebound is more important that weight, especially for a rail anvil. Then there is the "Other End Effect". You can flip a rail anvil over and use the tools you ground on the other end and it only takes seconds, your steel won't be ready for you for much longer. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 If you want to deaden the noise on the anvil you have, you should make sure that the contact between the stump and the steel is at the ouside end of the steel. Your piece of rail is not supported at all at the end . You have created a gong. Generally you want to get the vibrations down into the stump so some bracing may also be required. Test by wedging pieces of wood that can carry the vibrations down. Your shape is so complicated that it is diffcicut to guess what will work best. Experimet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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