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As I'm on the road a lot, I like to place the anvil on a couple of pieces of scrap 2x? and trace the base curve onto the wood and cut them out and nail the curved pieces to the stump so I can easily lift the anvil out for transportation.  In my smithy at my house I use big anvils and a couple of fence staples to corral them as I found even the 500+ pound one would walk under heavy enough sledging.

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Nice score you have there Chris. I made steel tripod stands for my anvils and just wedge them into the stand with the hammer and tong racks. On a wood block I prefer securing them like Thomas describes, all you really need do is keep the anvil from walking, it' not like you're going to be hitting it hard enough to bounce it off. 

Here's a thought for you, how about forging your own anvil staples? You can custom fit them and if you forge the points square a little twist will prevent them from working loose.

Frosty The Lucky.

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13 hours ago, JHCC said:

Then use the nails to make nail hooks!

You beat me to it!

                                                                                                                 Littleblacksmith

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You may NOT want to secure the 2nd anvil to a wooden stand, leave it loose. You bought the WHOLE ANVIL not just the face.

Not securing the 2nd anvil to the stand means you can turn the anvil every which way but loose. That allows you to use the curved under the horn and heel, the curves between the feet, the curves between the feet and waist, as a swage block to bend metal. You can turn the anvil on end with the horn up into the air, or the heel up into the air, and even use the porter holes if you want. 

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