littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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Beautiful work work LBS.

9 hours ago, Rojo Pedro said:

Less water is best

My apologies, I was taking a written short cut. I should clarify: Coat a thin layer (about a 1/2" thick of Kastolite) the consistency of cookie dough. The layer is just enough to seal in the fibers and provide a solid work space. Thicker layers for more of a heat sink.

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Spent part of Saturday up in Albuquerque at an SCA meeting where they are talking about setting up a metalworkers guild; also dropped off my old stake plate with a friend as I really don't need two of them!

Sunday I helped sort tongs, punches, swages and hardies, at the BPoS  (Big Pile of Stuff); explaining what some odd ones were and scratching my head over others.  Got a Price!  Good one on the 3 powerhammers; kinda rough on the BPoS as some of what I wanted had been had been removed to the owner's hoard.  Probably can make the deal if I sell on the 50# little giant to another smith down here.  Big problem is that I have most of the stuff in the BPoS already; so paying high dollar for it just to get what I do want hurts. It's an all or nothing deal though. I already told my wife I would sell 4 postvises and my old Champion #1 "project" hammer and we're getting close.  I have till Saturday to get the deal done!

I also helped the owner's spouse select out a "starter kit"  114# Lakeside anvil in beautiful condition, (HB in disguise!), 4" Columbian postvise, complete and in good condition, a half dozen tongs and a hardy and some hardy tools.  Hoping that would drop the price a bit; but... Folks keep saying I could sell it on and recoup the investment; but then I wouldn't have the stuff----just the exercise and hassle.  Big part of it is a number of hand crank and lineshaft drill presses that I have no interest in whatsoever---would rather have electricity to the shop to use my powered drill press!

Got back from town with just a bit of daylight left and finished adjusting my large postvise after I reworked the mounting bracket, MUCH more rigid---as it's my "sledging vise" this is a great thing.  Wit the last lumens I also pulled the valve stems from 2 welding tanks (O2?) I got from the scrapyard. They had been through a fire and the valves were not working so I didn't know the state.  I removed the stems slowly with great care, EMPTY!, and now they have a big SAFE chalked on them in several places.  They will make bells, propane forge shells and dishing forms and I sell back the valvestems as copper alloy scrap.  (I'd cast them but I worry about beryllium in such things.)  

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After taking down the holiday lights and tree, had a little bit of time to redo the hood over the coal forge. Original was some 8 inch ducting, poked thru the leaky part of the patio roof, ('honey, I'm only enlarging a hole that's already there") when the first brake drum/furnace blower/charcoal forge was set up back in 2004.

The "hood" was some floor register duct with some flashing screwed to it. Most of the smoke goes up it, and there's hardware cloth screwed into the duct at top and bottom to act as spark/ember stops. 

nickatforge.jpg.a02297d50f3159bd268de50e1348391d.jpg

I recently banged the "hood" with a long bar and the rust gave way, leaving bits of it hanging down into the forge. Now the scrap pile has a section of ducting bits and bobs that might come in handy someday. There's square duct that will one day make a Hofi style chimney, a turbine top, some restaurant hood parts etc.  One part of 10 inch duct I thought looked kind of like a forge hood, and after months of searching scrap dealers for a 10 to 8 inch transition without any luck, found one at the local big box retailer. Some trimming, (Beverly shear) some bending (Pexto sheet metal pliers) and some hammering and sheet metal screws and there's new Ugly Ducting!  The airflow is good enough that it never gets too hot to  touch so I don't worry about the galvanized. Honestly, working with coke, there's not much smoke save for when the forge is first fired up, but the scrap pile was reduced some, which is always good to point out to the spouse.

Hood1.jpg.a24281cf797a2b6ba06d90ab98a0803e.jpg

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Das, glad ya figured it out. Have you priced the cats you weld in? You could get 2 of those, last i checked about $60 each, weld them in and with some extra pipe just go with a 2 cat system. 

Love them front lift jacks like ya got there. Dont see them around much anymore.

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Finally got my customer order done. I had to work for this money for sure. Should have been fairly easy, but if it could go wrong, it did. Then last night, had everything forged and polished up. I had a cold shut on the transition of the spoon bowl and the neck and stupidly thought I could grind it out. I did alright. Then it was too thin and I bent that sucker. So, back to the forge I go. But it worked out alright because the bowl is bigger and better shaped on the second one. I decided I don't like to set shoulders on the edge of the anvil. I put them in leaves on the horn and from now on,  I'll do it with cutlery as well.

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20200113_134945.jpg

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Make a nice wide swing arm fuller to fit in the hardy hole---say 1" round stock. Do both sides at the same time in a controlled manner!

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Nice work CGL,  It is always better to start over if there is any question as to quality.   Keep track of your hours and keep a journal for sure. (measurements, startign stock sizes, times)  It will be one of the best strategies for making coin to put into your pocket. 

FYI,  forks should always have the prongs face outwards some at the tips..

::  A fork that has the tines pointed away will release consistently. ::

 

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Good suggestion as always Thomas. Thanks Jennifer and Chris. I put a little kick out on the ends of the tines because it seemed to me it would hold food better. Most I see are straight out. Maybe point them out even further?

Or maybe I misunderstood

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No work in the shop today, but I did have a good meeting with a potential client, a papermaker who wants multiples of a knife for scraping the outer bark of the paper mulberry tree. 

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I got the commission for a prototype, and if she likes it, we’ll talk quantity. 

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Billy, like most modern vehicles everything is packed in tight and that cat y pipe is more of a dr. Seuss nightmare that it looks in the picture. I have no idea how reducing to two cats would go and think, on this at least, I'm better to go OE style in the long run. I'll get OE prices tomorrow then see about aftermarket direct fit. They are anywhere between $300-700. Online. Some don't look too trustworthy. 

I love that bumper jack whenI can use it. It's an old napa brand. An old body guy that taught me a lot gave it to me back in the day since he needed room in his garage. It still works great. Haven't seen another in a long time. Really would like to give it a cleanup and new paint to keep it nice for many more years. 

 

Nice looking set CGL. Im sure the commissioner will love it. 

Any time I get cracks/cold shuts at the necked down area I just start over. Used to get them working too cold I think. I work hotter and try not to neck down anything too early in the process. 

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Thank you Das. I hope he likes it. I think I made what he asked for. I made myself nerve wracked through the process a bit. It seems if I'm just making something, it goes along real well most times. I got afraid of missing the deadline I set for myself. He didn't set a timeline. So I  started rushing. My first knife had a crack in it and as soon as I saw it I stopped. The whole piece of stock had a crack running down the length. So had to find something else. I should have stopped with the spoon and started over, so I'm glad it broke and forced me to. I'd rather give someone the best quality I know how to do and develop a good reputation more than anything. 

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Das, don't cheap out on cats. Or you will be doing it again in 1-3 years. You are US, yes? If so, go CARB approved. 

Quad cat is a booger... However. OE, the setup will have slightly varying catalytic precious metal compounds on the substrate upstream and down- this will aid in warmup and mid-range NOX and CO reduction. It "should" also live longer that way. The Platinum/palladium/rhodium balance will be shifted slightly. Cheap aftermarket units will have sub-par soak concentration of the precious metals. 

 

Anyway.....

 

Y'all are knocking out some gorgeous work!

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CtG, I'm looking into new cats first than possibly higher end after depending on cost and affordability. I agree with everything you mentioned. And also add confidence in the fit as well as functionality. I'm at @125,000 miles. With another 125,000, how could I argue. I'm a vehicle lifer. As in if I like it I keep it till it is fully done for. 

CGL, been down that road. Honestly taking longer one one big commission because life keeps happening. Thankfully they are patient. Be patient with yourself and don't rush that which is not in a rush. ;)

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7 hours ago, CrazyGoatLady said:

Finally got my customer order done.

Looking Great!

5 hours ago, Daswulf said:

a dr. Seuss nightmare

I helped my brother install a "spec" replacement exhaust system he had made for his '60 Chrysler 300F. A lot of time with a rosebud and sheet metal heat shields to get that thing to fit:wacko:.

12 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Got a Price!

Hoping all goes well with that, Thomas!

Gave a lesson on straightening and drawing out a horse shoe this evening. Got to try out my new tuyre pipe - works great.

We will turn the shoe into a triangle chime.

 

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Note the 8" air gap between the tube and the "blower".

Robert Taylor

 

Edited by Anachronist58
Post Assembly

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Das, I have changed maybe 10 cats in the last 11 years on all sorts of cars and trucks.   I have some that were the Racing type and installed for better flow. I have also installed factory and aftermarket direct replacements.. I have also installed OEM aftermark types that are welded in. 

The direct replacement are the easiest to to with nearly 0 customization.. If your had 4 cats to begin with you will need to go with 4 cats again at the federal level.. (can do what ever you want but)..

With this said it is really dependent on the age of the vehicle and how sporty it is. My 1991 SAAB SPG I could use any Cat I wanted to and it would not throw a code nor did it need any kind of tuning to make it be ok.  It is also a fairly clean burning engine. 

After 96 things started to get interesting at the Federal level and this created a different aspect of what could be done.  It's been awhile since i looked up the laws as I used to design and install custom exhaust systems (larger, custom fabricated out of stainless).  

I can tell you depending on the car or truck many have a 2 or even a 4 cat system because of how dirty they are and needed the extra cat for the clean up.   the spacing or location where they are is important for proper heating of the cat. 

For the most part the easiest are the direct replacement.  Reasonably easy to install. And today are fairly inexpensive. 

Cats  really have a 10 year life span and are warranteed as such from the factory and from the MFG/dealer..  So if any car sold in the USA has a cat that fails before then they technically are part of the emmisions system and covered under warranty. I think its 10 years or 110K. 

Here in MA we have a 15 year law that any car older than 15 years does not have to pass emissions and is not checked..  they visually check for a Cat but that is it. 

Federal law has no limit of years and states if the car had one from the factory it has to have one the life of the car in a functioning role. 

Many won't bother after the time frame of 15 years to keep it active. 

I run Audi 1.8T and they are a dirty engine as are Jeeps..  I just buy a factory/OEM replacement for the Audi as a direct bolt in and they work fine. 

On Audi's and other euro centric cars I usually just buy a direct replacement that has a good reputation and has the right looks as they last the longest and easiest to install. 

the weld in types don't last long as the exhaust pipes have terrible HAZ problems when welded in..  So the pipes end up rusting out around the new cats. Even if tig welded. 

With your problem the cats failed due to overheating and the adhesive inside as well as rusting breaks the catalyst and it makes or plugs the honeycomb..  the other problem with really dirty engines is the carbon that comes out the exhaust valve and can actually plug up the cat slowly with little flakes of carbon that build up over time and then overheat and melt the cat. 

I had a cat that was eroded away 1/2 from this carbon hitting the cat. 

The last 3 I bought were from a major online retailer  One of the largest and the prices were good..  For after market Audi it was 250.00 for a high flow cat. 

You've all ready done the hard part.. Well until you have to fork over the cash.  Use plenty of good quality anti seize on assembly. 

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Going to look at the Little Giants at lunch today.  I have a friend who might buy one and so lower my total cost.  Of course then I won't own it....

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The hard part was fully diagnosing before taking it out. Honestly if I would have had that camera scope I would have instantly seen that the honeycomb was blown apart just by peering into the pre o2 sensor hole. That tool is deffinately on the list to get now. It went from "eh, would be nice" to must have. 

 

Anyway, with it how it is I'm deffinately not going to cheep out on it. These newer cars are built to run on the components they were built with. 

Look forward to seeing the horseshoe triangle Robert. 

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On 1/14/2020 at 1:17 AM, Anachronist58 said:

We will turn the shoe into a triangle chime.

Thanks Robert. The customer liked his a lot and I got another order now! I'd like to see your horseshoe chime when your done. I've been thinking of doing one from a shoe and making horse heads for the chimes. 

Thomas, that goldmine of stuff you found would be fun to go through and then hard to decide what to keep and what to sell

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