littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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Some (what I've been told and given,) garage door opener rod and a piece of 2" rusty pipe. Two nuts for good measue. Will end up an octopus jewelry holder for my better half. Hopefully. Some welding required. 

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Stay tuned. 

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I was asked if I would make a tomahawk for a friend at work to give to his brother. Well, finished the second try today. I feel this one is good enough. (Actually, I kind of want to keep it for myself!)

1018 with 1095 bit.

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10 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

  You going to the ABANA conference.. Going to be right down the street from you in 2020. 

I am! It'll be my first one. Only an hour away. 

I think I can sneak off work for a day. 

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Rodro pedro  wonderful work.  Good for you on using nature and refining the design. well done. 

Goods,   Looks great.. Did you use the weld eye around mandrel in vise method?  How thick is the blade? Side view perhaps would be nice. 

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On 12/11/2019 at 3:07 AM, Marc1 said:

I agree with the good looking chances, but despite my very rusty french, I believe the translation is ... "Life is nothing but luck and chance" 

however ... je peux me tromper :)

No, IFC was right... :)  there's no free lunch ! B)

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Looking good, Daswulf. Anxiously awaiting pics of the finished piece. 

Rojo Pedro, that’s a beautiful rose. 

Goods, that’s a very nice hawk. 

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8 hours ago, greenskpr said:

I am! It'll be my first one. Only an hour away.  I think I can sneak off work for a day. 

My 2nd conference..  Be sure to say hi and introduce yourself..  I'm always amazed when people come up and don't say anything and expect me to know who they are via the forums only to have never seen their face or real name. 

I'll be easy to recognize as I have shirts with JLP Services Inc with big letters on them. :)

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On 12/6/2019 at 10:59 AM, ThomasPowers said:

John, any shielding for the regulator and hoses in the plans?

Courtesy of my friendly local electrician (and erstwhile city councilman), a length of flexible metal conduit to slip over the hose:

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I’m playing with an idea for a shield that could clip on top of the propane tank and give some protection to the regulator while still giving access to all the knobs and the dial. I also might add a removable piece of expanded metal to the deck, notched to fit around the tube of the burner. 

(My guy very much appreciated his thank-you bottle opener and started talking about hinges and door handles for his barn rebuild.)

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Thanks all!

Just got home from a hammer in. The hawk was wrapped, welded, then eye drifted/forged in the post vise with the weld clamped tight. Other that clamping in the vise, made very similarly to your video (just added a few more hours!)

Oh, I forgot! I do forge a small step down where the weld of eye measures out to. That way the weld is exactly where I want it, and I don’t accidentally weld back too far in the eye. May just be a cheat to compensate for lack of experience.

Here’s a side/top view:

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Indeed. I think I’m also going to stuff the ends with steel wool to keep anything hot from falling inside. 

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Not sure if steel wool would be good. Ive had sparks from a grinder basically ignight steel wool before. 

How about true aluminum duct tape?

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That would certainly work. Of what I have on hand, ceramic wool would also work.

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1 hour ago, Goods said:

The hawk was wrapped, welded, then eye drifted/forged in the post vise with the weld clamped tight. Other that clamping in the vise, made very similarly to your video (just added a few more hours!)

Oh, I forgot! I do forge a small step down where the weld of eye measures out to. That way the weld is exactly where I want it, and I don’t accidentally weld back too far in the eye. May just be a cheat to compensate for lack of experience.

 

thanks for the photo.     I didn't use the vise method in the video which is what I prefer.

 I wanted to interest people who do not have a vise yet.   Most the videos use a minimum of tools geared towards beginners or someone whom wants to increase the skills set.  LOL.. I say that. But really it seems as I have gotten older I try to use less and less tools on projects.  LOL.. 

The step down has the potential to help with a clean eye as it's easier to get in there and have it end cleanly.  I use a step down on long pole or extended pole tomahawks..  I need to get back out int he trailer to finish video #2 in the Tomahawk series..  LOL.. 

Looks great.. the eye came out really good.  did you do a concave bend before you bent it around?  

You did a great job..  I just like to hear about what others are doing and love the results..  Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and process..  really appreciate it. 

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Finished my first commission. $4 for the little ones 3/8” and $7.50 for the big ones 1/2”. For a friend at work for Christmas presents. Fun to do and now I'm a professional blacksmith !!

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Thanks Jennifer. No concave bend and to be honest I’m not real clear on what that is. I basically forged the eye on the mandrel which is more round than the handles that I had on hand, but the same circumference. After forging the eye in on the mandrel, I let it cool, then had to work it cold to fit the handle. I need to buy more handles, and if they don’t compare really well to the mandrel I have, I guess I’ll just have to forge one of my own...

Looking forward to that next video,

David

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Dear JHCC and Daswolf,

The ignitibility of steel wool is dependent on it's gauge or coarseness.  Very fine steel wool, #000 or #0000, can be used as tinder to start a fire.  Lots of surface area from lots of fine wires gives lots of reaction area with the atmospheric oxygen.  Coarse steel wool #3 or #4 is essentially fireproof.  Even the fine grades, if packed tight won't ignite.  They have to be pretty "fluffy" to burn.

I always threatened to give my late wife, who was a spinner and weaver, 200 pounds of steel wool so that she could spin and knit me an anvil. (Thomas, do NOT try this with your gudwyfe.)

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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1 hour ago, Goods said:

Thanks Jennifer. No concave bend and to be honest I’m not real clear on what that is. 

David, see if this makes sense.. Not the best drawing.   the metal wants to bend away from the mandrel when the material is bent around the mandrel.. By doing a pre concave bend to the eye section when you bend the material around the mandrel it will come out flat or nearly so.. I used to do this on the step between the face and the cutting table on a London pattern anvil.
 
Now I use a swage in the hardie hole or will open the vise jaws enough to get the right arc/concavity.. 


The area with lines in it is the concave section.  The little end view or cross section is the concave section.  The 2 ends move towards each other.. 



To forge out a mandrel out of 1.25"sq is pretty fast compared to the mandrel video upsetting that 7/8" to 1.25"sq was time consuming. :) I've been meaning to do a video on this starting with the 1.25"sq.. No time though. 

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Thanks! That’s what I thought you meant. I’ll give it a try next time. I need to make a few of these to keep. Both my boys are wanting to learn to throw them, and I keep selling them faster than I make them. I need to order some handles and get to work.

David

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