littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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Posted (edited)

Took a break from knife making and made a fire poker today. 

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Edited by Mod30
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Got a bunch of metal staircase spindles from a house that burnt down. 1/2 inch or 5/8 I'll measure later. It's pretty tough stuff to beat on. 

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You did a good job of it though. The texturing on it gives it a neat looking aesthetic. Nice work

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Thanks guys, I wish I could take credit for the texturing, but it was already on the square stock. I put the twist, loop, and poker part on though. Lol

It is a great anvil Chris. Thanks 

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Les L. smart choice.. Looks great. 

JHCC,  you got it.. Congrats..  it all worked out. did you call them to see if they would hold it for you?  if you were closer.. i'd say come over and we can make you a few.  I carry 1/8" up to 1" in varying tooth profiles.  Looking forwards to the results. 

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I took a gamble, and it played out. I’d missed Sale Thursday, but they gave me a bit of a discount anyway. 

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Everything spins nicely. The multi-tier sheave is from the drill press; I just mounted the motor with the proper size (as noted in the original manual, which I found online) aligned with the drive wheel. 

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There's a crack in the slide that moves the vise jaw (more annoying than detrimental), the drive wheel is a bit out of true and vibrates (ditto), and the hydraulic cylinder probably needs to be topped off with some oil. Otherwise, everything is fine.

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Worked on my power hammer and got it going, a few more tweaks to do, but it is pretty much there. 

 

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On 7/26/2019 at 9:54 AM, Randy Griffin said:

6 weeks old and you don't need to tenderize.

Bunny veal, mmmmmm.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I got to teach someone how to make a bottle opener and leather sheath yesterday. It was the first time I had ever made anything in front of someone, very rewarding experience. 

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LaMarechal Beautiful shoe rack. 


JHCC,  if you wanted to use the larger steps of the sheave the distance between the 2 pulleys might be long enough that you can just move the belt and it will be ok.. 

in the past I used a slide pin which allowed for the motor to slide in the mounting bracket and I would just move the belt to another groove and the motor would find the correct position after a few turns of the motor. 

That is a direct gear drive?  Open gears?  If so you are going to need dry gear lube. 

CTC i'd guess the rack is to hold horseshoes while still in the boxes. 

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Yes, it's open gears. The motor drives the belt, which drives the big pulley, which drives a shaft with a gear on one end, which drives the wheel, which drives the blade.

The wheels don't have tires on them, but the manual says they should. A post in the Garage Journal forum recommends four or five turns of friction tape as an inexpensive and easily replaced alternative, so I think I'll be doing that rather than spending too much on replacement tires.

1 hour ago, LeMarechal said:

Worked on my new horseshoe-shelf.

LeMarechal, that's lovely. Beautiful work.

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Our son is home on leave and wanted to give working some hot steel a try. He made a pair of split crosses and a “leaf”. I think he plans on attaching some cord and giving them to his grandma before he goes back. It was nice to teach him a little of what I have learned over the last few months. 

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8 hours ago, JHCC said:

A post in the Garage Journal forum recommends four or five turns of friction tape as an inexpensive and easily replaced alternative, so I think I'll be doing that rather than spending too much on replacement tires.

Addendum: on closer examination, I discover that there is a tire on the drive wheel, but none on the idler wheel. That simplifies life somewhat.

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Large hammer / small sledge all hand forged with striker and no drilling,just shy of 7 lb and two commissions a 2 lb er and 1.75 lb

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Made a few more ginkgo leaves for a lamp project I’ve been working on... 18 down out of 51 needed.

Also, finally finished the heat treatment on a hardy cold cut and started my first attempt at a basket twist.

(Sorry about the image sizes, can’t seem to figure out how to reduce the size on this iPhone...)

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Love the ginko leaves..  also the other forged bits.. I'd suggest you make the cutting edge of the hardie narrower..  the extra width is great when you need the extra support of the cutting edge but it will make cutting a bar much more difficult.   

If you are cutting alloy or tool steels the extra reinforcement might be needed but for the most part a decent base metal with a full hardening and proper temper will do 99% of the materials used in a smithy. 

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