littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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Finished up my second successful tongs. Although I managed to botch the rivet. Suppose I could drill it out for a new one, but I'll see how long it holds up. 

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Charles looks great.. .. But im a little confused on the foot bar being on the ground with only that smallish piece in the jaws..   I'm not an expert on shave horses but the ones I have seen usually have the pedal up off the ground some.. Not sure if the feet of the horse are in the dirt some or what.. :)  Just curious.. 

Das, that put a smile on my face as soon as I glanced the photo..  :) 

Nice job mudman..  for your 2nd set they are outstanding and look very well forged..   

For flat jaw tongs I always aim for a 50% of boss/pivot width or more for the jaw/rein..  I find this give me the best ratio of strength in use as thinner areas will bend in use.. 

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On 3/29/2019 at 1:35 AM, Mudman said:

haha truthfully, I didn't know what they were called until you mentioned it. They remind me too much of ticks- therefor falls into the "things I hate" category.

Brown marmorated stinkbug. I think they are universally despised.

Invasive aliens. They must be conquered and sent back to the pit from whence they came!!!

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Lady J, the treadle clears buy less than 1/2” in the configuration shown wich is just right for hammer and top tool handles. In truth I thought I was going to have to trim the vise arms befor oermanantly attaching the treadle, but it proved unnnesisary.

I have been using my vise and calased hands to whittle such things in the past. Now I have an excuse to forge a smaller Scandinavian style draw knife and a spoke shave blade. 

It’s all of about two hours work, the only glitches were the fact that I was not working to a measured plan and the closet rod pole in my stash was not realy round (and not having a shave horse and spoke shave...). After a bit of whittling and filing the closed rod was roundish but geting the pivot holes threw the body was a bit of a pain. If I need to mak another I can use the drill press, but as I had to mock up and then drill the holes that wasn’t an option. A 1 1/4” spade bit with a block for a jig got things with in an 1/8” but fitting a pivot pin threw two 2x and the gap ment some fitting. 

Not a blacksmithing tool persay but it sure aids in making and maintaining such tools 

 

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10 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Built a shaving horse

Nice. What's your shop floor made of? 

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I think it's great..  I consider it a blacksmithing tool for sure..  I have maybe 40 hammers and 8 sledges..  LOL..  this kind of device changes the whole ball game into possible vs plausible.. 

I figured you had it all worked out.. I have just seen then in use enough and since you wear shoeing heels I figured youd just use that area of the boot.. 

Nice.. 

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Mudman, those are some nice looking tongs. Yeah you might have to replace the rivet sometime in the next 10 years. :)

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Anvil; the local quarry called it “asphalt fines” it’s lime stone dust and small chips.

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Lady J; what is it about 2” riding heals that makes farrier work easer on your back? Despite the fact that the doc tells you to were flats. (Asked in sarcasm, as I like any farrier knows darn well why). I accualy had my moccasins on when I built it.

 

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Dogblazer9598: thanks, it is a Nimba Centurion that I spent the better part part of 5+ slowly saving for. 

Jlpservicesinc: thank you, they aren't perfect, but I credit how well they came out, (relative to how many I've done) to all the info I've found here, in mark aspery's book and some members that have personally given me advice. Otherwise these would have more than likely ended up looking like bbq tongs. 40 hammers? Ooweee I thought I had a lot of hammers haha. 

Pnut: I definitely despise them, had one try to crawl into my nostril once. Really creeped me out. 

Daswulf: haha thanks. I know the rivet will hold for a while, just bugs me that it could have been done better. 

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Concerning anvils: Do a site search for TPAAAT and apply the technique. 

Think of the anvil as a life time investment. It may be a bit expensive at first, but the price drops each time you use the anvil when you average out the price per hour of use.  For instance, $2000 should get you most of the NEW anvils available, until you get into the heavy anvils. If you use that anvil for a year (2000 hours) then the anvil cost is only $1.00 per hour.

Put a rent-to-own container in the shop and RENT your anvil for the very reasonable $1.00 an hour. No fair cheating and skipping a payment, or allowing the wife to find the rent-to-own container. At the end of a year (2000 hours) the anvil is paid for.

Anvils, rent to own.

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Started a new project. Wish the customer, palm leaves on the fireplace screen. Suggested several options.

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On 3/25/2019 at 7:44 PM, Daswulf said:

The hooks nice Arthur. What kind of chisel are you trying to use in the leaf veining? A slightly curved dull chisel works well for me. 

Thanks Daswulf.

I had just made a rounded chisel for that purpose, but instead of marking the leaf the chisel blade deformed and rolled on itself. It was strange and I was tired by that point, so I stopped there. I will try again next time.

The chisel was made from what looked like a damaged chisel, but it may have been a small spike. Though it had seemed to harden on quench and showed colours when I tempered it. Perhaps I softened it too much.

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Finished my first set of tongs today, flat jaw tongs following the demo by Black Bear Forge starting with 5/8" square stock, I found a large nail laying around and used the head for the rivet. They're pretty rough but they'll hold things, learned a lot from the process too.

 

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Mudman - amazing beginner work, you have natural talent

Alexandr - amazing professional talent !!

TRR - nice job, Im a little scared to try tongs yet

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a split cross and slot punch. Punched a bunch of holes lately and feel pretty good about it

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handled a $2 swap meet find. Cut six things and wow! Lots easier that my chisel

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fun !

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Forged and heat treated a little knife made from a broken plier handle. Seems very hard. All in all, a good afternoon  

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Nice work..  Have never made a split cross.. :)   

Hey you are an artist.. Love the tin man.. Are you going to incise the face into it.. 

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Great work everyone, looks like we have all been having fun today.

Got new crucibles in last week and needed some tools to go with them, I made my foundry top loading so tongs aren't the best option for me so I have my own simple design that works well for me and here it is.20190331_202035.thumb.jpg.c4041dd2d0b40083a77e722b558118a6.jpg

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Also poured a rough cast of my hand for a base on an anthill that I personally think resembles West Virginia. Anyone agree?

 

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Where'd you get your atlas? :o

I'm thinking a little paint, send a pic to my Doc and ask what kind of spider bite he thinks it is.

Neat casting, bet it looks neat on the table. Would candle wax dripping down it look cool?

Frosty The Lucky.

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5 hours ago, Frosty said:

I'm thinking a little paint, send a pic to my Doc and ask what kind of spider bite he thinks it is.

I've busted out laughing every time I've read this! :D I did say it is a rough cast. 

Looking at it from a different angle might help though I admit the northern peninsula is largely oversized.

I'm just glad it sits flat with no wobble. I may try some candle wax. Tho I can see my kids picking at it every chance they get. I figure I can't have nice things for a few more years unless they are literally indestructible. 

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Finished a hammer drift I forged out of a pavement breaker bit and did some dishing for a spangenhelm half. 

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Spangen helms are usually more than 2 plates. 4+ is typical.  How thick are you working?

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I could be mistaken, but I think it is still technically a SPangenhelm with two plates, as the term spangenhelm is derived from the riveted framework style of construction. Mine will have a central (front-to-back) strip to which the halves will be riveted (though I may tack weld them together for additional rigidity) and a bottom strip around the circumference. I have not yet decided if I am going to add hinged cheeks, a back plate, an aventail, a nasal, or even "spectacles". I'll figure that all out once I get the dome built. 

I am using 16 ga mild cold rolled. It was really a PITA to dish cold until I normalized/annealed it with a torch. Now it moves much easier. I didn't think the cold-rolled stuff would be that much tougher than hot rolled. I think my next sheet will be hot rolled for easier dishing. Once you beat the heck out of it like this, you pretty much lose the advantages of CR anyway. 

BTW, this is my first attempt at something like this (armoring involving dishing). 

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4 hours ago, Thejay said:

I've busted out laughing every time I've read this! :D I did say it is a rough cast. 

Looking at it from a different angle might help though I admit the northern peninsula is largely oversized.

I'm just glad it sits flat with no wobble. I may try some candle wax. Tho I can see my kids picking at it every chance they get. I figure I can't have nice things for a few more years unless they are literally indestructible. 

Doesn't a rough cast make you itch? :blink:

Cast your own candles and include something in the wax just for them. Say: vitamins, breath mint, yucky flavors like grapefruit. I wouldn't suggest bad smelling additives, except maybe for "special" friends. Back in a high school art class we colored and scented our own candles, powdered chalk or dry tempera paint, scent oils work a treat, I put a drop or two in the melted wax when Deb has one lit. Maybe experiment with the dog chew preventative, "YUK" it's non toxic and tastes REALLY B-A-D. Powdered drink mixes might do the trick if you pick a strong one like grapefruit. 

I'd like to try pouring Aluminum in an ant hive but we don't have that many ants that don't live in organics. NO molten Aluminum in the peat!

Frosty The Lucky.

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