littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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13 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Dogblazer9598, Yes it is..Purchased new about 1.5 years ago :)   Model 12   275lbs..  I think there is some pictures in the trailer build.. 

hi j are you happy with the peddinghaus? we are looking to put another anvil in our shop and were looking at the 12.

 

thanks doug

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11 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

arkie  sorry about that I remembered someone did.. 

No apology necessary. At least you remembered "someone"did...I would be lucky to just get past the "remember" part!!! LOL

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16 hours ago, Frosty said:

Alexandr: Is that a regular way to hold firewood in Russia? In the USA we typically hold it laying flat. Not everybody of course but that's the way I usually see it.

HI !

Usually we make baskets for firewood of such a shape. I made the round one for the first time.

Photo uploaded is not clear.

 

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1 hour ago, dogblazer9598 said:

hi j are you happy with the peddinghaus? we are looking to put another anvil in our shop and were looking at the 12.

 

thanks doug

Howdy Doug.   It's 2000.00 for a 275lbs anvil..   The Holland is a little more money for a larger anvil...   I specialize in colonial hardware and such and find I prefer a narrower face..  Ideally the larger Refflinghaus is what will be in the shop.. 

The 275 is plenty hard, has great rebound if you believe in such things (95-98% rebound) and so far has been wonderful..   

Would I recommend it to others... For sure..    But because of the work I do the wider face makes the flat section of the heel needed for the work..  I love a double horn anvil.. 

What I dislike about it is the width of the face and the edges at the face to horn which is typical of the northern German style of anvil..  I prefer a southern style.. 

24 minutes ago, arkie said:

No apology necessary. At least you remembered "someone"did...I would be lucky to just get past the "remember" part!!! LOL

Thanks.. I get more and more social media contacts and traffic..  I feel badly because I have 5-8 conversation going on at 1 time..  I then get contacted on another platform and the person brings something up and I can not for the life of me remember who said what or who is who..  Without a face to face.. its so hard to keep it all straight.. 

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This didn't turn out like I had hoped, but I certainly learned a lot of things. 

Currently de-scaling in vinegar. 

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I think it turned out great even if it's not exactly as you pictured. 

 

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Good choice to go simple on the support. The Rubik's twist is so visually arresting that anything fancier than your scrolls would have been too much, and the simple curls give a nice contrast. A little more tweaking of curves and proportions, and you'll be golden.

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Thanks Das and JHCC. The lower curved support gave me the most trouble, I spent 3 hours making little tweaks to it and still wasn't completely satisfied. Not having a torch or open forge was difficult, after riveting in the main rubik's twist hook- which I had to do in one heat, it wouldn't fit more than 1/3 back into the gas forge. So I couldn't heat up most of it to do the extra tweaks I wanted. I did make a valiant attempt holding the forge burner like a torch to try and heat the areas, but that didn't work out either. 

Lucky for me, using 3/16 stock I was able to cold rivet the lower support. Something else that didn't occur to me until after, was that the hole for the rubik's twist/ lower support area was crooked. I forgot it was tapered. 

I picked up a cheap tiny brazing torch, thinking it would work- but alas that was a failure also. So it looks like I'll need to start saving for a torch.. question is, what do I get?

Daswulf: sweet grasshopper by the way, I'm always impressed by your creativity. 

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Thanks Mudman.

If you are really planning on getting a torch setup, get tanks larger than you think you'll need lol. Those little tanks just don't cut it imo and experience. And with the torch setup, get a rosebud tip. They are better for heating areas for bending and such. 

If possible make yourself a solid fuel forge like the jabod, since you'll be able to make the firepot the size you need for the piece you are working. I'm able to somewhat adjust the fire size in my bottom blast brake rotor forge as well. All depends on what you want to make and if you can. 

Alexandr, wow, as always beautiful work and very inspirational!

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Das: currently I have two 40# tanks and one 100# tank. I am considering getting a second 100# tank. My plan was to get an oxy/propane torch, that way it's one less thing to fill up. 

Are there any specific setups you recommend? I haven't seen any kits, where it's just the heating element. Tends to be focused around cutting, and a heating tip/rosebud included as an after thought. The smith outfit I was looking at is just shy of $500- not a terrible price for something that should last 20+ years. But it's out of the budget right now, and will be for a while. 

Although I'd REALLY love a solid fuel forge, the amount of smoke they tend to put out makes it a bad idea for my area. I don't have a shop and work in my backyard, very urban setting. I'm only getting away with the forging, because I'm literally neighbors with a body shop- so people think all the noise is from them. Having a big shiny chimney and excessive smoke might invite unwanted trouble from the 2 story apartments one house over. 

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Yeah, thats why I mentioned if. Not feasable in some areas. 

I just know enough on the oxy/acet. torches to get by and not blow myself up. There should be others here with good knowledge on oxy/propane setups. If you don't find the info you need you could always find or start a thread to ask. 

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oh no, have I been reduced to the "just use search function" level? lol

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Hah, well, thats where to start. I just don't have the knowledge in torches other than running out of fuel when I'm in the zone, or using a rosebud for heating areas for bending or working. They are expensive and personally torches make me uncomfortable. I use mine as rarely as possible. If I can get away with it I even prefer my little mapp gas plumbers torch. Another reason I bought the mini inductor for bending critter legs. 

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7 hours ago, alexandr said:

Usually we make baskets for firewood of such a shape. I made the round one for the first time.

These are a more familiar way to hold firewood in the house over here. 

The one I asked about makes me think it'd be a nice way to hold kindling. Currently I use a large coffee can that holds small splits but isn't very attractive. I'm thinking a round basket like your's about 25 cm. dia. and 50 tall would work nicely and look a heck of a lot better by our wood stove.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Mudman I like that piece, for our area ever time I light up the solid forge 

I fear smog police or fire dept. will show up that's will coal, I have coke so 

I will try that to see how much smoke I get, I do use a torch set for items that

don't fit the gas forge

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Got some time today to try doing a couple openers again, learning more of what works and what doesn't.  Some of the things I want to do would probably be made exponentially easier with a guillotine tool.  Also knocked out a chisel that'll need some more forging to correct some mistakes, along with a couple small drifts.  Annealed everything at the end along with a couple punches, figured I would do a heat treat session on Everything later this week.

Oh, and two days ago I painted my forge.  Habitat Restore had brake paint for 2 bucks, figured i would give it a try.  Also patched some cracks in the lining and put in a kiln wash to smooth things out a bit and see if it helps.  Jury is still out, though.

 

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Nice work..  Are you loving the new anvil? 

I do see you have not dressed your corners..  They were beveled at the factory but may I suggest you round them off some.. 

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Thanks Jen

 So far I love my new anvil. I find the flat horn useful and it is very stable. I did find out that it can be dented. My brother missed and hit the edge of his hammer pretty hard. Left a small dent thats hard to find but you can feel it with your finger slightly. I knew it would happen eventually.  

I have only radiused a few inches opposite where I stand and not much at that. Not sure how much I want so I figured I would use it for awhile first. 

Would you knock off the corners regardless?  Thanks

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 Definitely soften the edges, at least enough to take off any sharp corners that could cause cold shuts. 

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If you look at the edge of the anvil there is a chamfer..  i would just round off the high spots on both corners of the chamfers..  i would not round it out completely or I should say I would not remove any more material than needed to make the chamfers less sharp.. 

If the anvil did not come with the chamfer than it would have been easier to just round the corners up and adjust in use.. 

But for some reason the peddinghaus had chamfers also and it meant having to round out as that sharp little step in the chamfer can cause problems vs a nice rounded corner.. 

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Nice job on the hold fast, being round you'll be able to hold work at the edges and address the work at an angle with hammer and tools. 

I agree, gently radius the edges, it'll help preserve the edges and limit stress risers and cold shuts when you isolate work and set shoulders. You can always increase a radius later if you need to but it's a major WTH :o to make them smaller. 

A hard missed blows on the edge are going to happen and precautions are easy to take. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 3/17/2019 at 11:24 AM, Mudman said:

Are there any specific setups you recommend?

I highly recommend a gas saver for your torch setup. It's an addition that you can hang your torch  to shut it off and a pilot light on it to relight without a striker. It's a great hands free setup that enables you to lose no heat messing around figuring  where to put your torch safely so you can use your hammer.

 

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Second Anvils suggestion.. They work great and offer an amazing savings in gas/O2 if left going.. Or the time in striking and adjusting the flame again.. (sure it only takes a second or 2 but this time adds up).. 

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