littleblacksmith

What did you do in the shop today?

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Not me, but my wife. She made a Smithing Magician over the past several days. All I got to do was help tweak the clearance a little. We picked up ten foot of mild steel 3 inch X 3/4 inch for her to make a bunch of dies.

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JHCC: If you are ever out my way.. If you want to play with a 500amp mig let me know..  it have 10 turns to the dial and I have never had call to do more than 2.5 turns.. 

The leathers are needed when working over head or in awkward positions..   My preferred method is TIG. .Clean, clean, clean..  Just a welding smock and glove to keep from getting rad burns.. :) 

Irondragon: that is a lovely, hefty tool..  Please pass along my congrats to the Lady of the house.. Very nice.. 

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11 hours ago, JHCC said:

By the way, the flat wire brush I picked up a couple of months ago from the industrial surplus place -- the one with 5" long wires -- is absolutely fantastic for getting the slag off the welds.

The best way to get rid of slag and alot of your splatter is to put a wire wheel on the angle grinder make sure ya got double eye protection glasses and a face sheild and if anybody is workin around ya put up a curtain incase some wire  or slag shoots off.

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Sfeile, I bought a " large to me" compressor and at rare times want more but it's as good as I could hope for in my shop. It's a 5hp bendpak 80gal. If I remember right it's around 24 or 25 cfm?  It's a beast and I don't regret the price tag of a little over two grand. I wanted one that I'd never want another one. Before that I was very unsatisfied with a craftsman oilless 20some gallon compressor. Still have that one rebuilt and setting in the lower garage to fill tires or whatever. 

 

 

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Das that 20 gallon would still be a huge improvement. All I have at the moment is one of those little 6 gallon pancake compressors. It will give enough pressure for anything you need, but it has no volume and then can't pump fast enough to keep up. Works OK for a trim nailer or such, but won't run an impact or die grinder worth a darn.

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Been there done that. I can run whatever. It kicks on but very rarely slows down on supply. 

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10 hours ago, bubba682 said:

The best way to get rid of slag and alot of your splatter is to put a wire wheel on the angle grinder make sure ya got double eye protection glasses and a face sheild and if anybody is workin around ya put up a curtain incase some wire  or slag shoots off.

Yeah, wheels are not so bad but you have to be careful with those cup brushes. I reckon they are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop - especially if you are removing slag from welds in a restricted or hard to get at place. They can grab and jump and bite real hard. I'm happy with a slag hammer and a hand wire brush.

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So this is my first post on the site and this is the first thing I have made. I was shooting for a bottle opener but was really just messing around. I started with ⅜ threaded rod I got from work and was mainly focused on just trying to keep everything as square as possibl. I would like some input on how to my my loops more round. I got the bend to come out round when I first put them in and then when I tried to fine tune them I ended up squashing them together and then ran out of daylight to keep trying. Any input would be helpful and I'm happy to give any additional information if needed. Also I'm not sure where to post this but if there are any Smith's in the new braunfels Texas area who need some help I would love to come help out and pick up a tip or two. 

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Welcome to IFI, Cade-o! If you haven’t yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

Then go over to the “Introduce Yourself” section and start a new topic to tell us who you are, how you got interested in blacksmithing, and so on. Good to have you here!

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32 minutes ago, Cade-o said:

I would like some input on how to my my loops more round.

Several more hours of practice forging loops, of course.

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11 hours ago, bubba682 said:

The best way to get rid of slag and alot of your splatter is to put a wire wheel on the angle grinder

I've got that too and use it often, but there's something extremely nice about having something that does just as good a job and is both quieter and safer. 

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On 5/25/2018 at 7:35 AM, ausfire said:

Yeah, wheels are not so bad but you have to be careful with those cup brushes. I reckon they are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop

I don't use the cups they are dangerous i use the wheel i don't like the handbrush when i'm doin xray work cause it don't clean the slag off as good as a wire wheel plus the wheel is faster.

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On 5/25/2018 at 7:56 AM, Cade-o said:

I was mainly focused on just trying to keep everything as square as possible. I would like some input on how to my my loops more round.

when you say " Loops"  you don't mean rings or circles...     Or do  You mean "waves"??????       Rings and circles are easy even without a horn..  waves on the other hand can be flattened or squished rings or circles.. 

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Terminology is key, what I meant was wave but but with the peaks closed together so.ething more like this, excuse the poor drawing I'm on break at work. 

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Slag? No slag with a TIG ;) For stick I like 7018 , and the slag just lifts off, or falls off on its own. If it is something like 6010-6011 I have a needle scaler.

JLP, I have a Miller MP65E that goes to 650amps and I have never had it maxed out either. It did do a great job spray arcing .062" aluminum wire when I was welding a 5/8" plate into the ends of a 10" tube with 1" walls for winery labeler drums. The beads were as big as my thumb and I had to be careful of not blowing through the 5/8" plate. It is nice to have a surplus of power in some situations.

Cade-O , one thing to always keep in mind is that the anvil is like a second hammer, so what you do on top is being done to the bottom. For things like your bottle opener selective heating / cooling is used to help control bending. And not all smithing is done with a hammer ,scrolling tongs or pliers for small jobs are also used. Nice job on the square though, very even.

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The scalers are nice but we never get them on new construction last time i used one was 17 yrs ago at BW's boiler shop in Cambridge Ont.And when it comes to slag and xrays ya can never be to clean lol...

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19 hours ago, Cade-o said:

Terminology is key, what I meant was wave but but with the peaks closed together so.ething more like this, excuse the poor drawing I'm on break at work. 

What you are showing there is a type of ribbon..   That is a tough one to do free hand if you are looking at any length and is best done against a drawing or sketch with a bending wrench and fork if you are patience..     a jig would be the answer to consistency.. 

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18 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Slag? No slag with a TIG ;) For stick I like 7018 , and the slag just lifts off, or falls off on its own. If it is something like 6010-6011 I have a needle scaler.

TIG Yup, no slag or spatter..  Just bead laying magic..        Even with 7018 and it peeling off.. I just don't bother with stick unless I have to weld outside in the wind and it's an emergency.. 

With my MIG I have a wire feeder on a 25ft power feed and then 25ft push pull gun with a 20ft power cord..   I can reach out to the road from the shop with the power unit still sitting in the doorway.. 

Wow, 650amps.. That is a monster of a machine..  What does it take for a breaker to run it...  It's pretty rare to run into someone else with a big machine..    I have an Esseti 501c Micro.. It's a multi power source,   DC mig/mag, stick and DC tig..   And a Dynasty 350LX..  

you are so right with large wires..  Spray transfer  on 0.62 wire is also something to behold..    I can only imagine your safety gear when you were doing that alum work..  I completely toasted one of my thick welding gloves one winter day when I was welding some solid 1" steel sections on a bucket.. I never even knew it and the finger of the glove turned to charcoal and shrunk up.. :) 

And when we want to talk about scale, slag etc, etc, and blacksmithing as a wrist hurter..    Take a look at this bad boy..  It's about as serious as one can get for a Tasmanian Devil wanting to eat every thing you wear, showing your wrists what is what..  and even taking off a few bits of face flesh for good measure.. 

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Drew out another billet, then hammered out another knife shaped object. Got it profiled and ready for quenching next time I go out.

 

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That’s a nice looking piece of steel. 

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53 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

It's about as serious as one can get for a Tasmanian Devil

I'll say. Wheres the side handle. That thing looks mean. 

 

Nice Blade Sfeile. 

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1 hour ago, jlpservicesinc said:

What you are showing there is a type of ribbon..

Cool, so it's ribbon. I'll try it again soon and use some of what was mentioned by you and the others above and post the outcome good or bad. Thanks for the input.

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