Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Epoxy


Recommended Posts

Depends on what for. You do  now there must be hundreds of different kinds of epoxy, yes? In general the slower the cure the stronger the bond. It's imperative you keep air off it while curing or it'll remain tacky for a long time. This is one of the few close similarities between epoxy and polyester resins. You can thin epoxy with toluol or toluene after the catalyst has been mixed. This will allow much deeper penetration and retard setting till the solvent has evaporated out.

Be aware any toluol containing solvent is a transdermal neurotoxin. "Transdermal" means it WILL penetrate through your skin carrying ANYTHING on your skin at the time directly into your blood stream. Neurotoxin means it kills nerve and brain cells on contact, it's also incredibly hard on your liver and kidneys.

Use seriously good PPE. Read up on it BEFORE buying a can.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The three main epoxies I see people use are West System G Flex, Normal West System, and Brownells Acraglas.  There are also some blade maker specific epoxies out there now like Bladebond that I have heard positive things about.  I have had good luck with normal West System, having used it in the past on boats. For knives I use the 206 slow hardener to give plenty of time to assemble and wipe down.

As for thinning, if you need to thin epoxy, your best off to heat it. Read more here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/

Bar tops are done the same way, once the epoxy is poured, you feather the top of it with a heat gun to remove bubbles, no harsh extra chemicals needed.

Always Mix on a flat surface too, not a cup. 

As Frosty said, always wear PPE.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, CMS3900 said:

The three main epoxies I see people use are West System G Flex, Normal West System, and Brownells Acraglas.  There are also some blade maker specific epoxies out there now like Bladebond that I have heard positive things about.  I have had good luck with normal West System, having used it in the past on boats. For knives I use the 206 slow hardener to give plenty of time to assemble and wipe down.

As for thinning, if you need to thin epoxy, your best off to heat it. Read more here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/thinning-west-system-epoxy/

Bar tops are done the same way, once the epoxy is poured, you feather the top of it with a heat gun to remove bubbles, no harsh extra chemicals needed.

Always Mix on a flat surface too, not a cup. 

As Frosty said, always wear PPE.

 

Thanks guys I've used a few there's just so many figured it be better to ask than winging it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...