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I Forge Iron

First katana sunobe


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Hello:

I hate to be a pest but why did you put in the sori? Sori is usually the result of yaki-ire.. (hardening)..that is unless you plan on having a heap load of sori on this or are you using an oil quench (something I do NOT recommend to those starting out due to flame up dangers)...  or are you not planning on a Hamon??  Then again what do I know about all of this stuff anyways?? Japanese blades sure ain't my strong suit that's for sure....

JPH

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3 hours ago, JPH said:

I hate to be a pest but why did you put in the sori? Sori is usually the result of yaki-ire.. (hardening)..

I had the same question, although I didn't know the Japanese terms.

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7 hours ago, JPH said:

 Japanese blades sure ain't my strong suit that's for sure....

JPH

:lol:  Very funny.  As I recall you literally wrote the book on modern sword and knife forging and have just finished a lengthy series of stunning Japanese style blades.

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I fear to ask where he got the metal. It is apparent from his questions he has not read the pinned posts as suggested,  his usage of fancy terms for SSO should have been a giveaway. 

Back up, learn basics before  jumping into the deep end.

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Steel used is w2. The reason for the sori was because i did not straighten it. 

When I was hammering in the bevels the bar curved and I didn't straighten it.

its not finished yet. Just normalised it, not sure if I should use a grinder to take off the scale or just leave it in a acid bath??

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Not sure yet but definately want a hamon... I just dropped the work peice today whilst filing it.

im very paranoid I hope this doesn't affect the heat treat. 

3 hours ago, Tubalcain2 said:

how do u plan on doing the heat treat?

what are your suggestions? 

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hamon? u gotta remember i live in tennessee and we don't use those fancy terms here. you'll have to bring your kinda talk down to my level. i've not used w2 so i can't give u much there. dropin it shouldn't mess it up though as long as it didn't crack.

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1 hour ago, Tubalcain2 said:

hamon? u gotta remember i live in tennessee and we don't use those fancy terms here. you'll have to bring your kinda talk down to my level. i've not used w2 so i can't give u much there. dropin it shouldn't mess it up though as long as it didn't crack.

What kind of steel do YOU use for katanas. Same steel that I use?;)

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Some more pics after I've left it in a vinegar bath because I had heaps of trouble trying to get the scale off.

Not sure if I can finish it before the weekend. If I do I can heat treat it. Been working until late so I have been unable to file it.

IMG_2347.JPG

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IMG_2348.JPG

IMG_2349.JPG

IMG_2350.JPG

IMG_2351.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

My very first knife cracked off a 1/4" x 2" section in the middle of the edge when I quenched it -- I don't wish that feeling on anybody!

Next time you photograph this, just put it directly on the floor (carpet?) without the rag. It will show up a lot better; the rag doesn't give enough contrast.

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10 hours ago, JHCC said:

My very first knife cracked off a 1/4" x 2" section in the middle of the edge when I quenched it -- 

 

How did you quench it? I'm thinking of using water because this is w2. I want to create hamons.

Ive got abit of W2 left and some sup9 spring steel that I would love to make a medieval sword out of but yeah Xmas looks so busy.

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13 hours ago, JHCC said:

Water quench, but it was too thin and too hot. 

How many mm was the edge and spine? I'm thinking low 700 degrees celsius for the quenching temperature with hot tap water with dishwashing detergent?

 

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