boraeili

Forged Japanese Dog Head Hammer

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Forged a 4140 Dog head hammer, heat treated with a pressure washer and I was surprised how well that worked.

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Good Morning,

It looks like it has too sharp of Edges to forge something without making Cold Shuts. I Know, It's your Hammer!! It's the way I want it!!

Neil

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On 11/6/2016 at 10:40 AM, ThomasPowers said:

I thought that too but thought that the end user would dress it to suit themselves...

 

On 11/6/2016 at 10:17 AM, swedefiddle said:

Good Morning,

It looks like it has too sharp of Edges to forge something without making Cold Shuts. I Know, It's your Hammer!! It's the way I want it!!

Neil

no you guys are right, i haven't dressed it yet, because i haven't used it yet. 

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4 hours ago, boraeili said:

 

no you guys are right, i haven't dressed it yet, because i haven't used it yet. 

It is Absolutely inappropriate to put pictures of a naked hammer on a public forum!

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Good Morning,

Heat treating depends on what you made it from. I use 1045-1050 and I quench with water, dip one end in the water and either flip it for the other end or use a garden hose. Leave heat in the center and you can watch the Tempering Colours run. Do all your grinding before Heat Treating.

Neil

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I have been thinking of making my first hammer. I only have experience with tempering some tools I have made from spring steel. I usually use cooking oils or used motor oil. What is the advantages of using water? does carbon level play a part in your decision? I looked around on the forum some but couldn't find anything definitive. 

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Alloy, Size and Use control how heat treat should be done.  (Things like knife blades often go one step gentler (oil to air, water to oil, etc; large items often go one step harsher: oil to water, air to oil, etc.)  The advantage to using the proper quenchant for the item being quenched is desired hardness and  decreased warping and lack of cracking in the quench.

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i no a guy who hardens his by letting water drip onto the center of the face hardening it but not the edges. i duno if it works but it is an interesting id.

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I know a number of people who use a hose spraying on the center of the face; I don't think a drip would cool fast enough to make the nose on most alloys used for hammer making.

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On 11/7/2016 at 6:54 PM, C-1ToolSteel said:

It is Absolutely inappropriate to put pictures of a naked hammer on a public forum!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

On 11/7/2016 at 6:56 PM, BlasterJoe said:

I'm new to the game. How do you heat treat with a pressure washer?

its pretty thick so i dont think just quenching it in water would get it down to temp fast enough, so i used a pressure washer... was probably overkill but better safe than sorry in my opinion.

On 11/7/2016 at 10:16 PM, swedefiddle said:

Good Morning,

Heat treating depends on what you made it from. I use 1045-1050 and I quench with water, dip one end in the water and either flip it for the other end or use a garden hose. Leave heat in the center and you can watch the Tempering Colours run. Do all your grinding before Heat Treating.

Neil

yea that probably would've been smarter in hindsight.... i normally make blades so forging hammers is a pretty new process to me, this is my first hammer.

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Why is it a doghead hammer? It appears more like a Japanese style. When I think of doghead, I think of the RCA victor dog, rear on the ground, front legs standing, head angled down. I am familiar with saw doctor hammers and one version has the head angled down.

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