Twentieth Century welder rod issues

[51 Papy]

First. I am not a welder!

I bought a twentieth century 220 volt welder in the early 90's. The gent I got it from said it was new in 1952.   I mainly run Forney 7018 AC rod.  I have always had trouble running Lincoln , Hobart, KT Industries and most every other Rod.  My supplier for Forney Rod shifted to a Chinese brand that will not work.  When I go to strike an arc the Rod has to be in contact with metal or the arc stops or it sticks to the metal.  I use 6013 at times but it's been a while.  The info plate does not give an AC or DC output always assumed it was AC.  I bought some KT E7018AC Rod today needing to weld tomorrow and I can not keep the arc going at any amp (180 to 100) on 1/8" Rod.  I'd take any suggestions or name calling as long as the old girl will come to life and weld.

 

thanks

Papy

[Jackdawg]

Assuming you have checked all the cable connections are tight and clean (no corrosion), it sounds like it might be time to retire the old girl.

[arkie]

Try another easier rod type, such as 7014, which is very easy to weld with.  7018 can be hard to restart, you have to scrape the slag/fingernail off the end to get a good re-strike.  7018 is a great rod, I use it all the time, but on DCEP...never used the AC rods since my welder is DC only.  Go over to weldingweb.com and post your problem along with a picture of the welder.  Maybe someone can identify whether it is an AC only machine or is AC/DC.

[51 Papy]

Jackdawg checked everything cleaned the stinger.  I found an old (probably a year old) stick of Forney 7018 and it ran.  Not well but it was way passed prime.  Hate to retire her before I kick the bucket.

Arkie I'll try the welding forum.  Just seems odd that it will run one brand of Rod but not others.  I would like to understand?  Forney Rod is available on Amazon if all else fails

thanks

 

[Lou L]

Try a lighter rod.  I'm guessing you are using 1/8 by your settings.  It just might fire up slightly smaller rods and still get good penetration.  Though, there are people on welding web who have forgotten more than I know.  From what I've heard those o,f buzz boxes never seem to die.  I'd guess it's AC only.  You may do well to check the connections inside and clean every metal contact you can find.

[Alan Evans]

No consolation, or necessarily appropriate to the Op's problem...I had an old oil cooled AC welder. It was largely idle after I bought a MIG, but when we needed it after a year or two, it worked fine again for a day, and then was dead the next day. 

I was told it was because condensation had got into the windings and heat turned it to steam and that disturbed the shellac.

Mine blew, but am wondering if the OP's has just lost a few coils and is getting reduced output. Are there any smoothing/striking capacitors in the box which would give it a start but then not maintain?

Alan

[51 Papy]

Well the good news is the old gal welds great...with the right rods.  Arkie I went to welding web and read. The Forney 7018ac rod is an AC,dcep and dcen.  Most of the AC rods are AC and dcep ( dc electrode positive).  Not sure I 100% understand all of this but I know what to look for when I buy rod.  Only took about 20 years .....slow learner here!

 

 

[arkie]

Papy, glad you got it set up OK.  Welding machines can be finicky sometimes.  Certain welders just seem to "like" some rods better than others (meaning those within a single category such as 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018, etc.) and will produce a better bead with one over the others.  Also, the optimum amperage for a certain type, such as 7018's for example, will vary from machine to machine.  You just have to find what amperage gives you the best results for a certain brand for your welder.  Experiment and you will find the "sweet spot" for your machine.

[Millennial Blacksmith]

7018 rods only like DC, even if it says AC it still only likes DC you always have to run it hotter or it will stick probably 15-20 amps higher.  7018 rods are a medium penetrating low hydrogen rod, they are a serious industrial rod accompanied with 6010 for a lot of root passes. 6010 are an high aggressively deep penetrating rod. 7018's cannot have any moisture or you will have catastrophic failure in your weld, unless it is designated with an R (7018R. or 7018-R) which is DC only.

7018:

70 - 70,000 per square in of pressure it can handle

1 - means it welds all positions ( for example a 7024 welds 2 positions flat and horizontal)

8 - represents low hydrogen.

alternatives for around the shop or house can be 6011, 6011's are basically AC only 6010's or a 6013, watch 6013 welds it can develop wormhole properties at the beginning and end of the weld, 7014 are good, but the are a low penetrating rod, you would be better served with a 6013. 

 

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I always ran 7018 DC Reverse.

Try a stick of 6011, a common AC rod that will burn through any crud on the part. We called it farmer rod because it would weld through paint, rust, dirt, etc..and worked on the AC buzz boxes they had on the farm.