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Drift Dimensions - Hammer Eye - Top Tools, etc.


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There are some old posts here from 2009, 2011, and 2014 where dimensions of Hammer Eye Drifts were discussed, but, not sure if it is my ID or not, but, none of the photos that are used for describing are available.. Says something related to "File Not Found".

I will be making some Hammer eye slitters and drifts for handled punches/drifts, Hammer Eye punch/drifts, etc..
And I wanted to make some hammer eye drifts for larger size hammers in the 3-5 lb range..
I have seen some of the Brian B. posts that say I would only spec them if I made a bunch of them, but, didn't give any dimensions other than starting stock, unless I totally missed it..

Seems there is not much to standards as far as hammer eye holes go, but, seems that is partly because of the lack of some agreement on the sizes..  I bought some handles at a flea market the other day.. I was surprised when I got back and started looking at how many of them I had to select through to find one I could whittle down to the correct size for a 3# hammer needing a handle..
I am interested in making a longer/larger drift that could be used on the small end for top tools, and on the larger end for larger hammers..
Seems if this type of tool dimension was readily available, at least the newbies making them would start using some sort of standard that might take ahold down the road..

I'm sure that some handles wear better than others with different dimensions.. Starting new, I only have a few hammers to look at and measure..
Maybe if you guys have been making/using some drifts that have worked well over the years, you could share some pictures and dimensions.. Maybe enough to post some separate stickies on each type of drifts for different purposes. Just thinking outloud... I was surprised not to find this information,, and once I found it, not being able to see the photos.. Not sure if my ID does not allow me to see them or not.. Brian B. posted a bunch of pictures here:
I get this error when trying to view the photos.

Sorry, there is a problem

Cannot find the page you requested

Error code: 2T187/2

 

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This is the info I had previously saved, hope it helps.

Hammer Eye Dimensions:

For punches and handle drifts

Hammer Eye Dimensions:
I found a hammer handle manufacturer's list of dimensions and will extract a chart (eventually). A 1.5 to 2.5 pound hammer has a 7/8 x 5/8" oval eye. A 3 to 4 pound is 1" x 3/4".
U.S. Department of Commerce, Forged Tools Simplified Practice Recommendation.
For oval handles.
Handle eye width = 40% of hammer width
Handle eye length = 125% of eye width.
Tolerances +1/16" - 1/32" max.

Tapered sledge eyes taper to center 4° on long axis and 3° on short axis. This is for punches and finished holes.
Note that the above is for a true oval. Check your drafting book or Machinery's Handbook for how to lay one out. There are also straight sided handle holes with round ends (milled). Thess are US standards I am sure European standards are different.
- guru - Tuesday, 11/14/06 01:04:50 EST

Hammer Eye:
My information is not as exact as that in the Guru's response. But anyway, here goes based on my experience.
We have talked about this. If I buy a hammer handle, I get the "16 inch machinist's handle". The eye-end will give you an idea as to dimension. Harcourt's "Elementary Forge Practice" shows the initial punched OVAL hole measures 5/8" x 7/8". After drifting the hole has a 1" length by an 11/16" width. Nothing is written in stone. 5/8" x 1 1/16" is not unusual. An old rule of thumb for hand forged hammers is the eye length is twice its width. Many a hand forged hammer in the U.S. had an oblong eye; ie., the eye had two parallel sides in length. The ends were half round. It is easier to forge and cold finish such an eye when compared with forging an oval eye. It is easier, because you forge a tapered rectangular section and then swage and cold finish the ends.
The initial punched eye I judge to be about 2/3 the size of the finished eye. My drifts are about 8" to 9" long for a 2.5 pound cross peen. The small end should just enter the eye when drifting. I drive the drift in about three quarters of its length, and I drift from both sides. While the drift is in, flatter the side bulges.
If the drift is 8" long and the small end is about 2/3 the finished eye, then 6" up from the bottom will be the finished eye size. The drift has a full taper top to bottom. It is not driven all the way through from one side. Drifting from both sides is advantageous. It will give the eye a slight hourglass shape, the latter being desirable for the insertion and wedging of a wooden haft.
Frank Turley - Tuesday, 11/14/06 01:28:11 EST

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