Bmallen77 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Have quite a bit of copper sheeting to texture. It's pretty thin around 16ga. Anyone ever textured with a pneumatic needle gun before?? I have heard a lot of guys getting an air chisel or air hammer and putting chisel bits in and putting texture in that way to be quicker than doing it by hand. Any good fast techniques?? Or experience with the needle gun?? the picture is the look I am trying to achieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Greetings Bmallen, I think you will find that an air chisel or scaler will be hard to control . I have a special machine that uses air chisel tools but it has a hydraulic table to control the impact.. For a look as per your picture I would use 2 flat plates and some steel shot with a little slag mixed in.. A treadle hammer or fly press would make it go much faster.. Be sure to aneal the copper first.. Just my 2c Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmallen77 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 Great idea. Never thought of using steel shot like that. I appreciate the advice. That I will definitely try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmallen77 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Just got my pieces textured. I ended up using an air hammer with a make shift 1/2" ball tool on the end of it. Took me 2 hours to texture 6 sheet of 16ga. Copper 12"x36" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Was that a LONG two hours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmallen77 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Definitely not the best way I have spent two hours. I can't imagine doing all that by hand. Would of taken me a whole day and wouldn't have been as uniform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wroughton Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Yes. Think thinner. 20g or even lighter. 16 gauge is too thick to work with the needle scaler. Push it around until it work hardens and you'll start developing the "ridges". Makes a very neat effect and doesn't take all day. I try to NOT anneal at the final so the work has some rigidity and defense against denting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueRugger Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Great discussion, learned a great deal from the thread. Definitely want to try this out. Quick question for @Wroughton: There are various small holes that appear to be for nails. However, that doesn't seem quite correct. So, what are they for? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wroughton Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 The "ravens" and script stand off the copper sheet. The holes are for the mounting pins that were plug welded into the ravens and script. They go into a center, indexing plate. The sign was 2 sided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueRugger Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 @Wroughton makes sense, thanks dR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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