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Recommendations for type of steel for a tomahawk


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Hello,

    I am curious as to what types of steel people are using to make a serviceable hawk without forge welding a high carbon bit.  Further, are you able to do a home heat treat, or do you send it out for heat treat?  Conversely, do some of you prefer to forge a bit into a mild steel body?

 Thank you,

Anthony

 

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well, about heat treating, that all depends how well you are, if you don't think your all that good at heat treating, and you have the money, than sure, send it of to have it professionally heat treated. But, heat treating is a very good skill to have, and would recommend that if you plan on doing blacksmithing for a while, to the point of where you make your own chisel, or punch,ect., and need it heat treated, you then don't have to send it of and wait a week. (I just made that up, as an example, I never have sent any thing that I've made to be professionally heat treated, I'm not sure how long it is until you get it back). like I said, its a good skill to have. If I'm doing a wrapped eye hawk than I prefer to have a mild steel body, and a high carbon bit forge welded in place for the cutting edge. That's mainly because of cost, and because if I wrapped a high carbon piece of steel and forge welded it into a hawk, then the forge weld is right on the cutting edge, which doesn't make for a great edge. if I'm doing a punched eye tomahawk I prefer to have a mild steel body, again mainly because of cost. Now if I have an extra piece of tool steel big enough for a tomahawk than ill use it, but that's not always the case.

                                                                                                              Littleblacksmith

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1 minute ago, Anthony Karakas said:

Thomas, Yes i have, and no i have not.  Is there a trick in forging air hardening steel?

 What do you mean by "expensive"?  The pieces i bought were practically free. Or am i missing your point?

 

Air hardening steels require very precise temperature control for forging and heat treating. No tricks involved, just very precise steps. If you have a controlled atmosphere furnace or a good oven and stainless foil it can be done but it will require a much higher up-front investment in equipment.

IMHO a steel like D2 would be a waste of time and resources for a hawk. You can forge an axe head from a water hardening steel like 4140 and temper it by eye just by inserting hot drifts into the eye of the axe after hardening and watching the colors run down to the edge. Tempering D2 to RC in the mid 40s, which is where an axe needs to be, will require an oven that can hold it steady at between 1100 and 1200 hundred for an extended period. It's not complicated, it just requires equipment not typically found in a blacksmith shop.

If you do decide to forge it please update us with photos and tell us how it went!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry I'm jumping in a little late. I really like 5160 for my hawks. Easy to come by, go snag some old leaf springs, and hardens easy enough, too. A lot of folks who manufacture tomahawks use 5160. Granted, not all leaf springs are 5160. I like that they come in a nice stock, too. 1/4 to 3/8 in thick, 2 inches wide, you can forge them into many applications. 

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