arkie Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 9 hours ago, Bud in PA said: Just googled Dempsey Twisted Tongs on youtube. As a beginner you have no idea how glad I am that I found this forum. I don't think that a day goes by that I don't learn something new fdrom the people on this forum. Thanks Bud For first tongs, the twist tongs are fine. That was my first tong(s) and still use them after all these years. One hint, when you heat the stock to make your twist, do it yellow to orange, and make your twist rather quickly (not jerky, though). Twisting cooler can result in cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Good Morning, Rule #1 - You can't hold Hot Metal with your Bare Hands. Use something, that will hold your work. There is no Law that you "HAVE TO USE Tongs", But they are very forgiving. Rule #2 - If in doubt, refer to Rule #1. BUT....... Do it with a smile!!!!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbieForger Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Thanks for the input guys, I am currently looking into making a English side blast forge for cheap. I like they way they look and i like how the fire is. For now i will either stick with the oven or just make a bottom blast with the brake drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Your anvil height would kill my back. Read the thread about anvil height in the anvil section. If you use longish stock you do not need tongs. For a beginner it is better to use mild steel bar from a shop than to use scrap or rebar that in the US seems to be glorified scrap. Then you do not need to blame yourself for problems caused by difficult/varying material. Oops Frosty already said that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNewbieForger Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 9 hours ago, gote said: Your anvil height would kill my back. Read the thread about anvil height in the anvil section. If you use longish stock you do not need tongs. For a beginner it is better to use mild steel bar from a shop than to use scrap or rebar that in the US seems to be glorified scrap. Then you do not need to blame yourself for problems caused by difficult/varying material. Oops Frosty already said that I Read that the top of the anvil should be where your knuckles are when your arms are resting at your side, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 9 minutes ago, TheNewbieForger said: I Read that the top of the anvil should be where your knuckles are when your arms are resting at your side, I had my anvil at that height for years, but just switched (at ThomasPowers's recommendation) to about wrist height. MUCH better. The lower height is (I'm told) a better height for a striking anvil, when you have someone doing the power hitting with a sledgehammer. Those couple of extra inches are making a big difference to my lower back. As for making a side blast forge, check out Charles R. Stevens's post "Just a box of dirt, or a simple side blast forge". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 The old books suggest knuckle height. They were also using strikers and a lot of top tooling in those days. Most of what we do today would be considered "small work". We also nowadays tend to think that a person should not end up crippled by their job and if you are headed that way you are doing it wrong. What I told my class yesterday was to start at knuckle height and then raise your anvil until you are no longer bending over to use it and then build your stand to that height. Note that if you do a lot of differing things you may want your anvil at differing heights---or have anvils anvils at differing heights to use. My heavy work anvil is definitely my lowest---save for the upsetting plate that's on the floor when needed and on the workbench when not needed. It was amusing to tell folks this and then see them choose an anvil to use at the WRONG HEIGHT (we had 7 anvils for the class all at differing heights) For some reason they would choose based on looks over functionality. (looks don't last; cooking does!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Good Morning, There is no LAW that says the Anvil is at knuckle height. That is just a starting point to figure out what is comfortable to you doing GENERAL Forging. I have seen fellows doing light forging on a very high Anvil. Chain makers sometimes sitting on a stool. What is most comfortable to you is the Best. To find out what height is good, sit your Anvil in a barrel of sand, use a piece of plywood with blocks to hold the base of the Anvil from moving. To adjust the height, just add or take away some sand, K.I.S.S. If you are trying to find material to practice Forging with, find a local welder/fabricator and ask him if you can PURCHASE some pieces of his scrap. Bring a box of Do-Nuts when you make your first pick-up, probably they won't accept your money. Stay on the Good side, it is worth GOLD. Go to your local area Blacksmith Association meeting/get-togethers. They will be able to better answer your questions, than from the keyboard. Neil Good Morning, I just noticed you are in Portland, NWBA has monthly get-togethers at Longview Fairgrounds. Their Spring Conference is May 13-15, hope to see you there. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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