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Freon Forge Build


Forging Carver

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Well I finally started! This forge is going to be built from Wayne Coes plans. So I basically cut the d shape doors and cut the tank in half. You put it back together with door hinges so that it makes casting easier, and gives you the ability to pop out the pins of the hinges and then prop up the top of the forge with firebricks if more space is needed. The lines I cut weren't too straight since I was using a a handheld jig saw. We did draw out lines though. It also must have bent a little so it didn't line up properly, but I rebent it back and there's just a little gap. All that really matters though is that I get the casting level. So now what I need to do is cut the hole for the burner, which I am still debating which method to do. Then I got to get a handle, the hinges, and the burner mount welded to it. After that I need to line it and then make a stand. I will post pictures of that too. I am hoping to get this done before my spring break which is March 26, so that I can have a whole week of just forging. Tell me what you think!

 

 

 

 

 

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Alright thank you! Frosty so you know how I was asking how I should cut the hole to make my burner at an angle. Well it turns out that Wayne told me that I just need to cut a regular hole, and since freon tanks are thin, I can just bend the mount to the angle I want. I will probobly cut that hole today. Thank you all very the help.

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I am now getting a piece of pipe for a burner mount so that I can get everything welded. I looked into scd 80 since it would probobly be better to have for a forge than regular pipe. However the places I have gone say they never heard of schedule 80 pipe before. So I looked online and a little 4" piece is only going to cost me about 5 bucks. However, shipping is like $13. My question is that will regular sized pipe you would get at a hardware store work, or is it too thin? Thanks

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Well I checked the plumbing supply and asked if he has schedule 80 tubing. The guy had no idea what schedule 80 was. He said he doesn't carry it, and has no idea where to get it. Then the young guy behind the counter told him that scd 80 is a thickness of the tubing. That guy told me that I could check the electrical supply, but they will only have pvc there. I also went to another place, and they had no idea what it was. I was shocked. Maybe the places around here need to hire employees that know the field the are working for. That's why guilds should still be around. You can actually trust the guy doing work for you or that you are getting help from. Anyways, so is regular hardware store tubing too thin?

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Scd 80 is heavy wall generally for structures or heavy use. You only need something the burner tube will slide in easily. A little play allows you to adjust the angle of the burner a little bit. Just grab a 3/4" nipple off the shop shelf and walk around till you find a short nipple it will slip into easily and you're golden. black pipe of course or buy a jug of vinegar to strip the galvy.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Do not ask about schedule 160 pipe then LOL 

You can not fault the minimum wage employee with only days of on the job training. Many times they just do not know. The box store and the small stored only stock what sells. No use tying up money in inventory that does not turn over. If you want a specialty pipe, go to a pipe yard that carries such things.

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6 hours ago, Glenn said:

Do not ask about schedule 160 pipe then LOL 

You can not fault the minimum wage employee with only days of on the job training. Many times they just do not know. The box store and the small stored only stock what sells. No use tying up money in inventory that does not turn over. If you want a specialty pipe, go to a pipe yard that carries such things.

Okay.

It's a rare case when specialty steel is needed at all, that's why it's called special. I bet most pipe, even scd 40 is sold to the, "If a little is good a lost must be better," school of thought crowd.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yeah that's I guess a pipe nipple will work then. I was thinking the threads would interefere, but as long as they are on the outside I should be good. Also, my burner mount kind of needs to be 1-1/2". The flare flares out to about1-3/8" and it is recommended that a 1-1/2" pipe is used as a mount. That comment about using vinegar to remove any galvanization to a galvanized pipe brings me to another thing. I see hinges are either zinc plated or brass. I know both are bad when heated. My hinges I have are zinc plated. I am guessing that it would be a good idea to put them in vinegar for a little while. Thanks for the help everyone, more progress pictures will hopefully be up next week.

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Ok, I am getting my forge welded tommorow. Just wanted to make sure that how my burner mount will be welded is correct. My concerns are that it is at the wrong angle and that it enters the forge too much. Please let me know. Thanks

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The pictures uploaded crooked, but if you click the image it should show it straight

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For some reason I am thinking that the burner tube should patrude little if at all into the forge. I think after school today I am going to cut about a third of the pipe off and then drill and tap some screw holes. To me, I guess the angle isnt too bad, but maybe should be a little bit more angled. 

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Just remember you are going to have 2 inches of blanket plus some coating between the shell and the inside of your forge. I believe the common recommendation is to keep the end of the burner tube back about an inch from the inside of the forge.  It's still going to get glowing hot at the tip and eventually have to be replaced, but it's protected somewhat by the blanket and hot face material if you set it back a bit.  The angle is mostly a personal preference thing.  You'll see everything from the flames pointing straight down at the floor to tangential burner orientation for maximum swirl effect.  Frankly I don't know if there's a huge difference in efficiency although it seems a lot of people suggest the swirl is better.  If you want a small hot spot then the flame aimed at your piece will provide that, but direct flame contact with your steel can produce excess scaling, especially if you have an oxidizing flame running.

If you are referring instead to the burner mounting tube then that should be welded to the outside and does not need to extend into the shell at all.

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Mr. Carver,

Correct me if I am wrong, you are using Wayne Coe's Plans. Why don't you follow the Plans?

The pieces that are needed are all available locally, don't try to mix things up and make it impossible to follow. You obviously don't understand things, you shouldn't be playing with pressure fuel. Find someone close to you and follow directions. Asking questions here is wasting everyone's patience.

Another candidate for Mr. Darwin.

Neil

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Well, I am following his plans. He never said if the burner mounting tube should be sticking inside the forge or not. If you don't want to answer questions, then why are you on this site. A huge part of this site is for people like me to ask questions and get help with their projects. I do understand things, but I just wanted to make sure that I understand them right. If I told you to make a hamburger, you can make it medium, well, medium rare, have cheese, mayo, etc. My point is that I understand the general concepts, but I want to make sure that I do it right so that all my hard work wasn't wasted. Plus, all these questions have taught me so much and my next forge build will be much simpler. Thank you all very much for your help

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Wayne Coe's plans are indeed slightly vague. I just built a forge with his plans. I just tried to "read between the lines" of his directions, and held my breath and hoped everything was right.....

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Yeah I agree, but Wayne probobly forgot to put them in, or he built so many forges that these simple things we wonder seem common sense to him. By all means not his fault. Also, these are free plans. Wayne could have easily charged us for them and make a fair amount of money. Thank you Wayne for the plans. More progress pictures should be up this week once I get to the welder.

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Carver: Don't bark at Neil for getting tired of you asking questions that shouldn't come up. How many times have I told you to pick ONE set of plans and follow THEM ONLY? He's right you don't know enough to try mixing and matching different plans all you're doing is confusing yourself.

From now on, if you have a question ask Wayne and do what he tells you. The gentleman knows what he's doing so pay attention.

Another thing asking these things here does that works against you. A bunch of guys with little if ANY more knowledge and experience than you have try to help so you end up trying to filter nonsense without knowing diddly squat.

Frosty The Lucky.

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You are right. It may have seemed that I was mixing plans, but really the only plans I was using were Wayne's forge plans and your burner plans. I was just a bit confused since I never done this before. As far as inexperienced people giving me advice, I agree. I first came to realize it when I made that coffee can forge. One guy said to use it and enjoy it and you then said it was very unsafe. Now, I only listen to the people I know I can trust such as you and Wayne. I also have been sending you guys pms more instead of making a thread. It's funny, when I first started I was asking guys questions in the chat room. They got ticked at me and told me to go ask thousands of blacksmiths on the forum. Little did they know, I trusted them and their advice so that's why I was always asking them instead of posting in the forums. And I am not talking about the Tuesday night crew. You guys are awesome. I am talking about a different bunch of individuals. Anyways that is beyond the point. Yes you are right Frosty and sorry Neil  if I came off a little harsh.

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FC, you have been given EXCELLENT advice in the chat room, in the forum, by personal messages, emails and etc. The credentials of the people posting on the site are beyond belief. Some of the people you talked to have degrees in the subject they spoke about, others have written books, and others have YEARS of actual experience and years of working knowledge. You did not have to set up an appointment and pay to meet with them, or buy their book. All this information was given freely to you and others. 

There are several companies that built a good working forge. Pay the money, read the directions, hook up the gas and your ready to go. If you want to build your own forge, follow ONE set of plans in order for the forge to work as it was designed. If you want a different forge, then follow a different set of plans.

 

 

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FC,

You can get all the specific details and background facts you want from reading Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, & Kilns. Go to the Amazon.com book section and input the title; look through the book to reassure yourself that it is FILLED with answers to specific questions, which apply to all burner and forges; not just specifics about my burners and my forges. You don't even need to buy the book, since it started being pirated and free downloads offered on various sites a decade ago. Just be careful about what site you download the PDF from, and then keep a cup of coffee handy; there are enough specific answers in every  chapter to roll your eyes up in your head without a lot of caffeine assistance. My own family couldn't make it through more than a few pages, but then, none of them wanted to build anything:wacko: A lot of your questions will be answered just by viewing the 120 drawings in it. And no, I don't worry about pirating hurting book sales, which have more than double since all that pirating started.

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