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I Forge Iron

Protective equipment


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Eye protection, glasses, full face shield etc, hearing protection, ear plugs, ear muffs, etc, all cotton clothing, long sleeves when needed, long pants, steel toed shoes, apron, gloves (cuffs cut off) but only when needed as in handling sharp objects, or abrasive objects, tongs or vise grips or weld on a handle to hot objects, and always have a plan B if something goes wrong, and it will. Learn what coatings and metals can give off fumes etc that can injure or kill you and avoid them. ALWAYS engage your brain before doing anything that can get you hurt. Then do not do that.

The table beside the forge (hot table) is for anything that has been in the forge. Pick the object up, dip it in water, place it in your BARE hand and only then does it go to the work table. No surprises that way.

Each task is different and may need additional safety measures or equipment.

 

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General forging there isnt anything particularly worn by myself and obviously others.

Forge welding employs the use of a heavy apron at minimum.  I have used safety goggles as I wear glasses but the goggles can and often to steam over thus you cant find the anvil.

Gloves are worn only when required such as hot punching with a drift unless you have one attached to a handle which many are.

I wouldn't wear sandals so is that a safety item? Though I do wear shorts in the heat of summer. Be advised that you don't wear Wellington boots with shorts!!!

That's about it. If you work in a fabrication shop like I do and you are FABRICATING then there is a LONG list of PPE which is employed. But generally speaking most everyone does not dress up like a firefighter to heat steel and shape it with a hammer.

I suppose you could watch ten YouTube videos and probably not see much of anything in PPE while generally forging. 

Ok I probably should go here but. .. . . . . . .if you have to wear one insulated/kevlar welding glove on your tong holding hand; something is wrong.

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There you go!! But I hear now , butter ain't good for burns. That will change again in a few years. The quench tub works great!

It's the BLACK iron you gotta watch for. If it glows orange, it be hot. If it's BLACK ............you can never tell. It turns black at what,,,,,750°F from a dark red? I use the BACK of my hand to very gently and quickly touch an item if there is a question. Thata way, I only kill some hair and can still hold a hammer in my palm. 

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Actually folks starting out should be geared up more than folks with decades of experience who know *NOT* to assume a piece of steel is cold and how to get out of the way if you drop a piece; however *everyone* should be wearing eye protection!  Also natural fiber clothes and leather shoes so when the bad happens you are not a poster child for the results!

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I avoid them to avoid the risk of becoming careless around hot metal as someday you will not be wearing them---or they will have a hole or a seam going out; or the piece is actually much hotter than you expected; or a piece will drop inside the glove; or....Learn to fit tongs to the piece and not have a habit of grabbing hot iron with your hand.

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If you are holding metal and it gets too hot to hold, TURN IT LOOSE !!

If you have a glove on, even after you turn the metal loose, the heat continues to migrate through the glove. The only way to get relief is to remove the glove, and by then you can get burned.

You can get burned if there is a hole in the glove or if the glove is wet, you can get a steam burn before you can react.  Wearing gloves can make you careless and grab hot iron, after all you have on gloves. Bare handed you know to be careful the second time. (grin)

 

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Fair enough I suppose... I am just used to wearing them out of necessity from the welding trade. When doing pressure piping it isnt a matter of getting careless around hot metal...it is just that you almost certainly WILL come into contact with it as you are required to handle it while it is still hot. You finish welding a spool and its time to weld another...nobody I ever seen had any sort of handling device...that was what the helper was for.

-edit we would use chain vice grips ....but still.

Most of the time all we wore was light tig gloves in the summer.

50 minutes ago, Glenn said:

If you are holding metal and it gets too hot to hold, TURN IT LOOSE !!

If you have a glove on, even after you turn the metal loose, the heat continues to migrate through the glove. The only way to get relief is to remove the glove, and by then you can get burned.

You can get burned if there is a hole in the glove or if the glove is wet, you can get a steam burn before you can react.  Wearing gloves can make you careless and grab hot iron, after all you have on gloves. Bare handed you know to be careful the second time. (grin)

 

I was going to add that about the water as well Glenn. Not only can you get steam boiled but wet gloves shrink faster and get smaller than dry leather will if they get hot. I still personally prefer to wear gloves almost all of the time.....But experience has taught me to favor protection over dexterity. I now wear big , heavy leather gloves. "Muppet hands" I call them. They fit loose so I dont know that they could even shrink enough to get my fingers and all it takes to get them off is to open my hand up and let my arm down and they pretty much fall off. Just my personal preference based on related trade.

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ThomasPowers and Glenn give excellent reasons for not wearing gloves on your tong hand. In addition, even those who do wear a glove on that hand will usually go barehanded on their hammer hand, as a glove makes it harder to grip and control your hammer.

Me, I wear a heavy leather welder's glove on my tong hand that (like Prevenge's Muppet hands) shakes off easily if it gets too hot. SReynolds may disapprove, but that's how my teacher trained us lo these many years ago, and I'm comfortable with it. Your mileage may vary.

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That's a great respirator Nuge, thanks for the link! One of those will hook right up to my dry vane air compressor and I won't have to wear that stupid HEAVY 3M Whitecap helmet! Yeah, it's actually a welding helmet but it's a supplied air welding helmet for toxic environments and made welding galvy or worse okay.

Eye protection is a MUST and can vary depending on what you're doing. flying chips WILL find any crack between the source and your eyeball. some operations just my normal everyday safety glasses are fie but others like running a disk grinder requires a second layer. either a face shield or better still goggles. On some occasions I wear all three.

Natural fibers, no synthetics! Synthetics, even fire suit synthetics like Nomex melt on contact with hot things then they melt and stick to your hide and deep fry it.

Halon fire extinguishers are dangerous in a closed space, I'd rather clean up dry chemical than spend the time in a hyperbaric chamber clearing halon out of my blood. The stuff is worse than CO.

I wear gloves when I have to, my forge has significant dragon's breath unprotected flesh doesn't stay very close long, not long enough to grab a piece with the tongs. Gloves can be really dangerous though be very careful. Like Thomas said some of us have been doing this long enough we can spot problems before they begin and minimize our risk. Learning the craft is much different don't take ANY chances you don't have to. This IS a "do as I say NOT as I do." craft.

Frosty The Lucky.

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14 hours ago, Glenn said:

If you ever cleaned up after a dry powder fire extinguisher, you may want to consider a CO2 or Haylon extinguisher, and definitely if it is to be used in the house.

True!  But I'd rather be cleaning up white powder than a burned building, much faster!  In the FD We carried zip lock sandwich bags filled with the powder and would drop them down chimneys when they were on fire, worked great.  If you have extinguishers make sure you and everyone else knows how to use them correct. 

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