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bluffsider

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Sort of need to know what you plan to do to know what you need for an anvil.  I was at the scrap yard this morning and saw a dozen chunks of steel in that range that would be fine for anvils---the london pattern anvil is about 200 years old, the cube of metal anvil is over 2000 years old so what does an anvil really look like!  (and the scrap yard was asking less than 20 cents a pound---I always round up to the next dollar though, just a little bit of subtle encouragement to let me wander the piles---shoot he locked me in while he had to make a run to town as I said I'd be hunting the pile longer than he would be gone.

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Glenn, almost. after the first i did get a second in short order. but i've been dry for years but i may have just got a hit recently. :D 

Bluffslider, Welcome to the craft. There is Much to learn here. if you have any questions please search and if you dont find the answers in the many many posts here, or are unsure, feel free to ask. 

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Welcome aboard, glad to have you. Post pictures? . . . HERE!? :o You better believe it, we LOVE pics. A look at that anvil would be a good thing, we can't offer a decent opinion without a look see. sounds like a deal though . . . IF the weld beads haven't damaged the face's heat treat too much. That's a matter of doing a rebound test or maybe a pocket knife scratch test.

The rebound test is to measure the hardness and competence of the face's bonding to the body. You drop a ball bearing and estimate the rebound (bounce) as a % of the distance you dropped it. If you're not good at that kind of estimation use a ruler and drop it from the 10" mark. this can be done with a smooth faced hammer but it takes some experience. Take the hammer with you though so you can compare the results. Do the rebound as a series of drops in a pattern over the entire face. You're looking for dead spots, the heat affect zone around the welds is a likely place. A sudden reduction in rebound can indicate heat damage or a delamination of the face from the anvil's body both are bad things.

The pocket knife scratch test is as simple as scratching the face with the back if the point of your pocket knife. A pocket knife shouldn't scratch a properly hardened anvil face beyond just shining up a line. It'll also have a distinct sound and the blade will move almost frictionlessly. If it leaves a scratch you can feel by scratching it with your finger nail the face isn't as hard as it should be. This test will tell you almost instantly if the Heat Affect Zone (HAZ) of those weld beads damaged the face. If they did you'll feel the knife blade start to bite the face as it gets close. Remember USE THE BACK OF THE POINT NOT THE EDGE! You're not trying to shave or slice the anvil and heck the edge of the blade is too fragile to survive.

Frosty The Lucky.

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