Charles R. Stevens

Just a box of dirt, or a simple side blast forge

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I have  not stopped my experiments, and now recommend a trench, insted of a bowl. Put the tuyere in the side of the trench, taper the ends to make fuel additions and cleaning easer. If you make it 4" wide then standard hard firebrick works well for extending the trench above the table (ground) one brick or no brick depending on what you are trying to heat. Because of the low mas, fuel effecency is a must with charcoal. 

Something like that

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I just showed this design to my friend and half way through the pics he was already looking for his shovel :D

I have some difficulty picturing the trench setup in my mind, any pics about it? How do you position the tuyere?

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The tuyere comes in the side of the trench, but instead of a bowl 8" across, instead dig a strate sided trench, 4" wide and 8-12" long. The long sides of the trench slope down to the tuyere making it easy to clean and encouraging fuel to settle down. 

So, let's cover it again, you want atleast 3" between the floor of the box and the bottom of the tuyere, and 3-4" above the top of the tuyere to the too of the table. You would have 2" of dirt between the fire and the bottom and an inch under the tuyere Now at this point either use bricks or make mounds of dirt on the long sides of the trench up to about 4" to keep the fuel over the stock from running off. Banking coal works, but with charcol you just end up with all the fuel on fire, and still only get 6" of hot spot . 

 

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Purgatory Ironworks (a smith from Georgia named Trent) is currently doing a series of videos for starting blacksmiths.  His last couple have covered these types of forges.  He gives pros and cons and draws out how to design them.  His knowledge of the JABOD is not as profound as Charles' but the videos are informative nonetheless.  He also communicates the IFI stance on anvils and the benefits of big chunks of steel over hunting for "real" anvils.

If visuals help you check out his videos.  Picture Charles' trench as a capital "T" shape.  The air pipe (tuyere) is the bottom line connecting to the trench which is the cross line at the top of the "t".

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On 8/13/2017 at 0:26 PM, NomenCallide said:

Yeah I use a blow pipe... it is a pain in the rear but it works

If your blow pipe is a pain in the rear you're either doing it wrong or we want to see the gas burner you're using.

Frosty The Lucky.

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made the JABOD: fantastic! i can actually heat stuff up with this, even with wood which is kinda nice :P  Still have much to learn but dirt offers lots of chance for that.  now to learn about firepot depth and shape and steel position and tuyere opening and all that good stuff.  

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The trench is eased to clean and seems to give a better fire over all. I modified the forge (cold chisel) before forging a pick into a bick

It also holds just a little bit less fuel, the sides make holding the fuel in place easer and it reflects the heat. 

Down side of the double walls is that scrolls don’t fit well. Single wall works well and one can always grab a brick. I have one that I melted

 

 

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Single wall is similar to Viking style, no? Only I was at a demo a while back where Darrell Markewitz was showing off a setup involving a box of sand, two single lung bellows,  and a bellows stone (more durable than a clay wall I guess?)

He was basically piling up charcoal against the stone, with a shallow depression in the sand to lower the fire somewhat. I was impressed by how small the fire was whilst his bellows thrall needed to be watched in order to not burn the work. 

Link for reference: http://warehamforgeblog.blogspot.ca/2013/10/viking-age-sand-table-forge.html?m=1

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