Jump to content
I Forge Iron
Sign in to follow this  
pike3e

Stuck tup/ ram

Recommended Posts

I have a 55lb striker hammer (anyang style), with the top die stuck in the up position. I had a stuck die and was hammering out the key and it must have moved a bit and when I turned the hammer on the tup is stuck inside the body of the hammer. Anyone know how to get it back down?

 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never done this, or worked on one of these hammers so give my opinion the appropriate weight.

My guess is that you need to remove the head cover on the tup and tap the piston back down.  You may want to loosen the bolts that hold the bottom seals in place so that you're not forcing things, and then re-tighten them after the piston comes through.  James Johnson has some You Tube video showing how to remove and replace a piston that look like a great guide to the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep pretty much what ph said

I had to pull tub out of a #33 yang I had an air  Leak & though piston ring was broken Hence the Noise I was hearing

replaced seal fix -- noise ended up being motor mount tightening bracket the noise transferred to front of hammer

ended up going from one end of the hammer to the other cking Everything pulling off all covers cking all seals & bearing 

just to find that noise

well short story I Know how the hammer is built now LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, how'd it go? Still stuck?

I've done the same trick. It will score the flat sides on the guides but you've already done that so...... put a little pressure to the treadle and see if that kicks it out. The flat plates on either side of the cylinder are replaceable if its like mine. I've stuck mine this way a couple of times but usually its just a copper shim plate working its way out from behind the die. It may groan and spit oil but usually kicks out after a stutter or two. You can turn your plates around if they're scored bad. 

If that doesn't work you might try smacking the die the opposite way with something. I know it disappears up in the cylinder housing but you may be able to hit it (sending the die AWAY from the side the key is sticking into) with a big (BIG) punch. If it's loose from the key coming too far it might just fall out and drop the tup. 

I've had my Stryker for 11 years and I'm more than pleased with the capabilities of this little hammer. The oiler's crap and the factory die keys are too but it's basic message gets put to the metal very well. I'm chronically breaking down stock way bigger than the recommended 1" max  size. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the top off and banged it with a wood block and it didnt move. I took the bottom ring off and this caused the ram and the ring to drop down. I was able to tap the ring off with a brass hammer. I then removed the stuck die with a drift and some hard hammer blows and then put it all back together. Tapping harder from the top would have worked just as well but I wasnt sure how hard to hit. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does not appear to be any damage. I forged some 416/1095 laminate today and everything seemed fine. Thankfully.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...