Frosty

T Burner Illustrated Directions

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I went back to the plans and you said to clamp the fitting in a vise to tap it and you also have a picture of it too. What I mean is that I am not using the copper set up, so how should I clamp the nipple for the rubber hose direct set up? I actually think I figured it out anyways though. Just screw the nipple in a coupler and clamp in the vise by the coupler. Thanks

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Yeah, I DID mention using a VISE to hold the 1/8" pipe x 1/4" Flare fitting to drill and tap no clamp. I also showed how to hold the 1/8" nipple by screwing it into the "T".

Tell you what PM me with your parent's Email address I'll get with them and maybe MAYBE they'll put a burner together for you. You've PMed me some 18 times with questions about the SAME part of the burner and still don't get it. I don't think I CAN help you, maybe in a few years. If you don't want me talking to your parents start: mowing lawns, weeding flower beds, washing people's cars etc. and buy a burner.

 

 

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Great looking burner thanks for the plan. Couple little hints instead of using a flare fitting try using a compression fitting 1/8th to 1/4 NPT I believe, you can adjust the mig tip by moveing the compression ring up or down the tip. Get a assortment of tip size, I started with a 35 I,m down to a 25 it seems to work well. I also use a Acetylene regulator on my  on my propane tank I can regulate it down to 7 lbs from there I use 1/4 ball valve to control flow.

That being said I,m only heating 160 cu inchs but I can light the forge throw in a RR spike and sit down roll a smoke have couple sips of coffie  takes about 4 1/2 mineuts to get hot enough to forge. I am using a bit of a different design then Frosty.s T burner {I got it off the hard core site} but they both are pretty fool prof in design and build.My 2c oldshove 

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You're talking about using the compression ferul on the mig contact tip itself? Hmmmm.

I hope the reg you're using is rated for propane and you aren't going to use it with acet. again. Propane doesn't play well with others.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Ya use the ferul  rite on the mig tip it,s a tight fit but it go,s on.I have had that old harris regulator for 25 years and it was used when I got it allways have used propane may be a couple acetylene bottels threy it.Mind you if your cutting using propane and oxygen you do need a special tip

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I'll give the compression fitting a try next time I build a burner. Easier to tune would be really nice.

Naw you don't need special anything to run oxy propane IF your rig is a dedicated oxy propane set up. I run an Allstates rig but I won't go into it again, said more than enough about it here already. B)

Frosty The Lucky.

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Have you tried this design using a 1" T with a 1 x 3/4 reducer bushing or a 1 x 3/4 reducing bell for the chase? I ask because I have these parts readily available at an excellent price (free). I would think a bell would affect the tuning. Not sure how much turbulence the bushing might introduce.

Thanks

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The bushing is too abrupt a dia. change and causes turbulence so it doesn't induce air very well if at all. I've never tried it ad I don't know of anyone who has that had much success.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, the forge I'm making will have a finished volume(not including the kiln shelf) just a touch over 700 cu.in, 704 to be exact. I'd really like to stay with a 3/4" T Burner, my question is; going off your numbers do you think two would be sufficient, or would a third be beneficial? I figured with the shelf in there it might take up some more space, but I just wanted to ask before I start cutting holes into my tank. 

Thanks, Viking

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If you get them tuned right two should be enough and the kiln shelf will reduce the volume so you should be okay.

Here's a thought for you. If you cut the burner holes large enough to accept 1" burners you can reduce the size to accept the 3/4" burners with the burner mounts themselves.

I'm not crazy about fitting two different size burners in one chamber but it's been done and worked. However you can turn a well tuned burner down to less than half it's max output so if you can't get your target temps with two 3/4" burners you can make two 1" burners for maybe another $30-$40 and fore sure get enough heat. Plus you'll have two spare 3/4" burners on the shelf.

Frosty The Lucky.

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31 minutes ago, Frosty said:

If you get them tuned right two should be enough and the kiln shelf will reduce the volume so you should be okay.

Here's a thought for you. If you cut the burner holes large enough to accept 1" burners you can reduce the size to accept the 3/4" burners with the burner mounts themselves.

I'm not crazy about fitting two different size burners in one chamber but it's been done and worked. However you can turn a well tuned burner down to less than half it's max output so if you can't get your target temps with two 3/4" burners you can make two 1" burners for maybe another $30-$40 and fore sure get enough heat. Plus you'll have two spare 3/4" burners on the shelf.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks again Frosty! I'll do some figuring and see what I can come up with. I've learned more in the few days puttering around on here than I have in the past year trying to figure this stuff out. I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum.  

Viking.

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Hi Frosty , thanks for all you're info. I'm using a Ron Reil burner. Just a quick question, would your calculations regarding tube diameter versus length (3/4 x 8 = 6) apply to his burners as well I'm just trying to improve fuel efficiency? I'm using about 5 lts an hour at about 6-8psi in a 315 cubic inch chamber with 2" kaolwool lining plus a thin coating of fire cement slurry.

Thanks Gary

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Yes the basic ratios apply. Tube length = 8 x tube diameter. You have some leeway but not a lot. a LITTLE longer is better than a LITTLE shorter.

5ltr./hr sure sounds like a lot but that's a pretty large volume for a linear burner. A 3/4" linear is probably better suited to 250cu/in, give or take. When I say a well tuned 3/4" burner is good for 300-350 cu/in. that is i reference to a Jet ejector type burner there is a significant difference in performance and an ejector has about 25-30% more output.

If you don't want to build another or a different burner I'd suggest you reduce the volume of your forge raise the floor on an inch of Kaowool will probably do it but you might need to try different remedies.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks Frosty I'll give that a try. I think I'll give you're design a go next and run a comparison I have no real problems with Ron's but gas costs and any saving is good and I just enjoy the process of making them. I'll post up the new results as and when I do it. 

 

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My pleasure. Ron's plans are solid and work well within their range. I think your problem is just not enough burner so you have to keep it turned really high and it takes a lot of time to heat your work.

I like making burners too, almost more than using them. Have you seen my latest noodling in the Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner thread? I am REALLY happy with how that one turned out.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Hi Frosty I think your right about Ron's burners, I'm just pushing the limits of what they can do. SO I went shopping today and made a 3/4 T burner,  I had a spare flare which I may or may not use, hopefully I can get it tuned in in the next few days. I'll post up some more pictures when I get it going.

Ps I like the ribbon burner very simple but effective! Let us know how you get on with in regards to fuel and versatility over time. I'll definitely have to keep an eye on that. Purely for research purposes of course. 

IMG_20160913_153536.jpgIMG_20160913_153544.jpg

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I don't get those really LONG "flares", do they really do any good? As it sits your burner is going to run rich, don't be surprised, just trim the mig tip back till it's how you like it. A torch tip cleaning file set works best for deburring the jet hole after trimming.

I chuck the mig tip in a hand drill and use a Dremel cutoff wheel or my belt grinder to shorten jets.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yeah, I know the mig tip is to long but I'll sort it during tune up. I don't know if I'll be using the flare it's a spare off one of my other burners can't say I noticed any difference between with or without a flare to be honest.

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Let me know in the loop please, I'm interested in what works and why.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Regarding the "Frosty T Burner Build" PDF:

The build states, "All the ratios are derived from the pipe Diameter".

I'd like to know if this refers to the pipe ID or the pipe OD?

Mikey98118 stated: "You normally use nine times the inside diameter of the tube body...", in his treatise on Burners 101. He didn't state that this applied directly to the T Burner, however.

Ed...

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Round pipe size is always measured by the ID, in the USA anyway. Mike specifies because he's more used to describing things to folk who don't know conventions like how pipe is measured. I tend to forget most folk haven't spent the better part of their lives working with stuff like this.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Ah, very well Frosty. Thank you very much. I had to ask because there's lots I don't know about building a forge!
I'll ask about Kiln Wash and Kiln Shelving but have to find the right thread...

Ed...

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Hi Frosty, 

I noticed on my 3/4" T burner that the end of the mixing tube has a large ridge on the inside and was wondering if this is normal or something that should be removed?  

Thanks!

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