Frosty Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 O D: That looks like one of my really early T burner builds where I cobbled a fitting on a piece of lamp rod to make up to the mig tip. I had a lot of trouble moving the end of the jet far enough back from the tube to induce enough air. There is still a concept drawing of my second generation T burner here on Iforge I'd sure like to see removed as it's so out of date. Give the new illustrated directions a shot, they're much easier to make and get right. I don't clean the threads out of the thread protector / coupler, they actually reduce friction. I know that sounds backwards but air blowing across close spaced ripples like internal threads makes turbulence against the surface that allows the main stream of air to pass with less resistance. It's counter intuitive I know but it works. ---------------------------------- F C: There are welding suppliers in NJ, I know there are. There isn't any real advantage to buying them from Amazon. I can get a 10 pack at either of the welding suppliers within say 20 miles of me for under $15.00 tax included and that's here in Wasilla, Alaska. There's also no reason to buy the tapered mig contact tips the air flow in which you need to consider turbulence is generated well after the gas jet. Sure those would work but if they were too short it'd be tough to lengthen them where standard mig tips are too long out of the package so shortening them to tune is a given. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Alright thank you frosty. I will check out a welding supply place, or even maybe my local hardware store. One other thing is the 1/8" mpt x 1/4" flare fitting. The regulator kit I'm getting from Zoeller forge has a 1/4" npt fitting that is meant to attach to the burner. Will this work or should I get the 1/8" mpt x 1/4" flare fitting? I am hoping my hardware store will have that too becuase I can't seem to find anywhere online that sells them. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 The IPS faries disappeared my reply AGAIN!! ARGHHH. I'll have to get back later. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 The IPS faries disappeared my reply AGAIN!! ARGHHH. I'll have to get back later. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OddDuck Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Well, if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing a bit. And overthinking. Didn't mess much with tuning it perfectly, the flame in the furnace was a nice even blue, and not much if any excess flame was coming out of the top. Foundry is a bit different than a forge, the flame doesn't impinge directly on the metal being heated. If it does, time to change the crucible. Furnace atmosphere can be important, depending on the alloy being used. I didn't even get much dross, come to think about it, so it was probably on the neutral/slightly rich side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 A foundry burner is a different thing, not a lot maybe but different. Fingers crossed, Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Frosty, what is the effect of a .030 mig tip instead of a .035? Will a .030 work okay for a little while, at least if the forge doesn't need to get to welding heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 If everything else is correct it'll run lean. You can tune it to neutral by moving the end of the mig tip (jet) closer to the burner tube so it induces less air. On the up side the smaller jet and higher gas pressure will make the burner less affected by breezes and back pressure. So, yes using a 0.030 tip is only a final tuning issue. If you're doing it like I showed in the plans and trimming the tip to increase air induction you don't trim it as short as a 0.035. The affects of difference in supplied propane adjusts right out. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Great! Thank-you very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Another question. The burner tube or mixing tube, whatever you call it, if you're building a 3/4" burner, you need a 6" tube. Does this 6" include the part that is screwed into the T? So the length outside the T is less the 6"? Or is this not really a big deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 5 hours ago, tonyw said: Another question. The burner tube or mixing tube, whatever you call it, if you're building a 3/4" burner, you need a 6" tube. Does this 6" include the part that is screwed into the T? So the length outside the T is less the 6"? Or is this not really a big deal? I just buy a 6" nipple, the 8:1 ratio isn't a tight specification, you have leeway, 9:1 works just fine, If you go much longer then you have to start tapering the tube or skin friction will severely inhibit performance. Going shorter isn't a good choice though they need some length to let the fuel air time and space to mix. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForgeMan32 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Ok I've built my t burner and I am having trouble tuning it. I have made sure my fitting is perfectly straight down the center . When I fire it up I am getting a little to much flame around the mig tip for comfort and if you start turning upthe pressure I get a blue flame but not with the nice cone in the middle . II've tried shaving the mig tip down several times until I got the first one so short it would kill the flame with any pressure . It acts like I'm leaking gas around the 5/16" hole but I'm not I've checked all connections. Frosty any advise on what I'm doing wrong . Besides everything lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Flame should not be at the Mig-Tip!! Flame should be at the mouth/tip of the Burner ONLY. Test it in a Forge, not hanging free. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForgeMan32 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Ok I will try that I was testing it in free air . I watched a video on YouTube where the guy had his running perfect on a bench so I just assumed mine would to . I've been using Ron reil burner and it works good but I wana try this burner . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I feel embarrassed to ask this, since there is no mention of it in the plans, but I have no idea how to connect copper tubing to a propane tank. Would somebody mind helping me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Most folk I know connect their regulator to the propane tank and tubing to the out side of the regulator. The regulators I have owned over the last 35 years all had fittings that fit a propane tank when I got them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I was hoping to get by with a needle valve rather than a regulator; does that make a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Regulator is strongly suggested as they require less fiddling as a tank chills and runs lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyw Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Many thanks! I'll take your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 1 hour ago, tonyw said: Many thanks! I'll take your advice. Always wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 This has probably been asked, but I've done some searches and extensive reading, and I've not found what I'm looking for. So, what's the smallest practical T-burner arrangement? I'm concerned with the practicality of the burner setup, more so than the practicality of the small-volume forge. I've seen 1/2" pretty commonly. Can it be done smaller? Essentially, I like the concept of a tin-can style forge, the kind you usually see paired with torches off the shelf, but I really dislike the idea of using a torch. Seems like a t-burner would give a better result from my reading thus far. Apologies if I've missed this somewhere in the pages here, or in the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Make a 1/2" T burner and turn the pressure down for a small volume. One of our guys uses a 1/2" T burner in a 2 brick forge with a volume of maybe 40 cu". As far as I know Mig contact tips don't cme smaller than 0.023". If you want to go with a smaller burner you'll need to read up on Mike Porter's designs. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Frosty, I am using a 1/8" secs 80 nipple to build my burner instead of a flare fitting since that is what your alternative plans to connecting directly to a rubber hose say. How should I clamp it to tap? The flare fitting for the other setup has the hex to clamp on. You warned about damaging the threads. Maybe just clamp really lightly? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Carver: You're still disregarding the plans I made as clear as I possibly could, it has PICTURES of how to make the burner step by STEP. You don't clamp either the pipe nipple NOR the brass fitting at all. If you can't figure out illustrated plans you need to find another hobby. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 In a 1/2" burner build, d9 I still use a .035 tip? In addition, I needed to use parts I had available.. (I know, I know...) The mig tip threads were too small to tap a 1/8 mpt to fit them. But the id of a 1/4 flare fit perfectly... So I have 1/4 flare going into the tee, tapped to accept the mig. It lengthens the rig inside slightly. So just trim the tip shorter to accommodate, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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