Jealdi Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Thanks Frosty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 Sure, it's my pleasure. There are a lot of pictures in the burners 101 section though I don't have a a specific post or thread to look at for you. Just don't do what I did on my last forge and WELD the burners to the shell. Talk about taking a stupid pill that morning! I don't know what my brain was doing other than thinking. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jealdi Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I'm thinking I'll screw/rivet a flange for my larger pipe that will hold my burners. So I can put set screws through it to hold the burner. Wife might shoot me if I buy a welder since I've already bought a drill press for this project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 11, 2020 Author Share Posted October 11, 2020 You could tell her you drilled some holes in the wrong place and need to weld them up. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tank Commander Bill Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Hello everyone. I've been lurking around absorbing as much info as I can on building my first forge. I got the Frosty T Burner built yesterday. I think I have it tuned pretty well. I have the innerds for the forge on the way thanks to Glenn. Here are a couple photos of the burner on action and what it will be going into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Welcome, Bill You are in the heart of the North West Blacksmith Association (NWBA), check out the website 'blacksmith.org'. The burner will completely change when it is installed into a Forge body. Keep your lessons regarding what works and what doesn't work, written in a note book. You will want to recollect thoughts at a later date, "What was it that I changed, to make it better/worse?" This will not be your 'Only Forge', it may be your 'First' Forge. Enjoy the Journey, there is no actual destination, but there is a heck of a ride, when it works!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 Welcome aboard Bill, glad to have you. Burner looks good for burning outside the forge. Back pressure from being contained and possible alignment will require a little fine tuning once installed. Ditto Neil, look up the NWBA, they're a very active group of good folks. What do you mean "MAY be your first forge," Neil? If you stick with the craft a while I'd put money on you building another forge that suits your needs and likes before long. Everybody I know who's been doing this while has several collecting dust in out of the way corners of their shops. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I give them away, so that I can have any room in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tank Commander Bill Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 On 12/31/2020 at 1:17 AM, swedefiddle said: The burner will completely change when it is installed into a Forge body. Keep your lessons regarding what works and what doesn't work, written in a note book. You will want to recollect thoughts at a later date, Thank you. I will make sure I keep a notebook for all this stuff. When I looked at the NWBA site it looked like everything was way down south. Plus some groups in the Tri Cities and Spokane. Frosty, I was thinking that I would need to finish tuning in the forge. Thank you for confirming it and letting me know I don't need to mess with it anymore until then. I can't wait to get the rest of the stuff so I can start hammering on some metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Happy New Year, Yes, the Fairgrounds at Longview Washington is where 'Home Base' is. There are a huge amount of the members, in the Puget Sound area. I know there are members in the Everett area. Paul Thorne lives just south of Anacortes. He works from his shop at home. He also teaches classes. VERY easy to talk to!! He is trying to retire, but I don't know if it is working. Silas Maddox is one of the directors, he lives in Sedro Wooley. David Lisch is south of Seattle. Dave and his wife Andre work together, Dave likes doing knives, that is their business. They have get togethers at their Shop, sometimes. Thanks, Neil Gustafson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tank Commander Bill Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 5 hours ago, swedefiddle said: Happy New Year, Yes, the Fairgrounds at Longview Washington is where 'Home Base' is. There are a huge amount of the members, in the Puget Sound area. I know there are members in the Everett area. Paul Thorne lives just south of Anacortes. He works from his shop at home. He also teaches classes. VERY easy to talk to!! He is trying to retire, but I don't know if it is working. Silas Maddox is one of the directors, he lives in Sedro Wooley. David Lisch is south of Seattle. Dave and his wife Andre work together, Dave likes doing knives, that is their business. They have get togethers at their Shop, sometimes. Thanks, Neil Gustafson Thank you. I had no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Most folks don't realize how wide spread smithing and smiths are. There was one fellow I remember claiming that *no* smiths were anywhere near him...until he found out that that the VP of the local ABANA chapter lived on the same road he did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Hi folks, 1st post from a beginner, living in Edmonton, AB. I am building a pair of 3/4" tube T-Burners, and will stick to the design parameters as have been repeated many times here, but as someone who constantly looks for ways to modify something, was wondering if anyone out there has experimented with machining the inside of the "T" intakes, to remove the treads and potentially smooth the intake airflow. If for nothing else, perhaps to quiet the sound of the air being sucked into the burner. I'll probably try a number of different burners, but these almost build themselves, and I'm anxious to fire up the newly constructed forge. Cheers, Jeff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Welcome aboard Jeff, seems to me several have tried that and it didn't make any difference in performance. There isn't much sound from the intake, the roar is from the flame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Many thanks for the reply and the welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 As to making the burner quieter; what we all hear is flame noise; lessening that ain't easy. However losing much of the noise in your forge is a practical goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 I'm approaching 60 years of age, and my neighbours are somewhat used to loud cars, motorcycles, guitars, and many other noise creating activities coming out of my attached garage and house in an otherwise quiet residential neighbourhood. I'm not sure how happy the neighbours will be with me banging on an anvil and playing with a forge, but I have been providing sharpening of their fine knives for some time. Hopefully the favours will have created enough good will to get me by. I have to admit that I have always been a firebug, and think I'll be experimenting with different burners for some time, even though this will be my 1st forge. My experience regarding combustion has always centered around tuning cars and motorcycles, and not being able to leave well enough alone. Being invited to play at a friends forge has me hooked, and I'm looking forward to the experience in my own garage. 1st things 1st - a functional forge. Quieter burners if required will be a later goal. Always open to suggestions! Cheers, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 First: source a *quiet* anvil like a Fisher or a Vulcan---or follow the directions to silence noisy anvils covered on IFI *many* times. My Fisher goes thwap as it stands on it's stand. My Hay Budden goes TING! unless it's silenced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 45 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: First: source a *quiet* anvil like a Fisher or a Vulcan---or follow the directions to silence noisy anvils covered on IFI *many* times. My Fisher goes thwap as it stands on it's stand. My Hay Budden goes TING! unless it's silenced. Thanks, I'm going with el cheapo 66 lb ACCIAIO cast anvil I got locally for $170 CAD to start with, but haven't even hit on it yet. I suspect that will not be something long lived, and I have my eyes peeled for something better, along with a reasonable hammer, tongs, etc. Will see how loud it is on the stand that is under construction (made of fence posts joined with threaded rod). I will look into ways to muffle the thud on the concrete floor of the garage, the the reality is that everything has to be movable, as I'm not willing to permanently lose a parking space for one of several vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 A collection of improvised anvils can save you some money. Any 2 pound hammer should work. BP001 Easy to make tongs The more you read and research the less it will cost you to get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 I thought I'd read EVERYTHING! Thanks for the links - really good! The tongs look great, and the anvils show some real ingenuity. I feel sorry for throwing so much stuff away over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 I have a RR track anvil and a 66 pound anvil. I use them both. I think I might have gotten lucky with the QC the day my anvil was cast though. I've seen a few that were a lot rougher and the HT was spotty but I'm 100% satisfied for my $120USD purchase. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resinears Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 Hi folks - I need input on my t-burner tuning. As a rule, when they go from outside the forge to inside, do they require more or less fuel? The reason I ask, is that I initially put a .024 mig tip in that had been shortened and tapered, and using the prescribed dimensions for a 3/4" t-burner, it was way lean, as I could only get it to run well if choking the intakes with my fingers. So, I tried the same size .024 tip that wasn't cut down, and with it closer to the mixing tube it indeed didn't suck as much air, and the mix looks to be very good out of the forge with the 1" to 3/4" reducer on the end of the mixing tube. So, shortening the mig tip or lengthening it fine tunes the amount of air which is introduced. Would it be safe to assume that if you had a mig tip length that wasn't optimal (say, a bit too long, or too close to the mixing tube), if the orifice was small enough the final mix would be correct, and combustion would be complete? The forge size is going to be too large for a single 3/4" burner, but too small for two burners running wide open, so I was hoping to tune for efficient combustion using smaller jets. In other words, if using smaller jets but having them placed far enough towards the 3/4" port of the T would allow for efficient and complete burning, or should I go for larger jets placed closer towards the 1/2 way point in the T-fitting, and just turn down the gas. Insight is appreciated! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another FrankenBurner Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 You want less output from your burner... Tim Allen is frowning somewhere. Actually, you have a fun line of questioning. Good for thought. Most guys are trying to push as much output down the pipe as possible. This means we are all fighting for as much air induction as possible. Where you are not demanding the max, you have surplus air. You could get away with quite a few things that the others can't. First, what size forge are you talking about? Most likely you could run two standard 3/4" burners turned down. Though, I would follow others advice on that. I have only played with the 1/2" Frosty T's so I don't know about the turn down range of the 3/4" burners. You are branching into your own thing a bit here. I have used the 023 mig tips in the 1/2" Frosty T's. You want an in between burner? You might try the 030 mig tips. When you put a burner in a forge, it is pushing through more resistance so it will have a harder time inducing air. How much so depends on the burner design and the forge design. I have played with a lot of combinations and most of the time, the change is fairly minimal. Where you have surplus air, it is nothing to worry about. You can tune it to compensate. It sounds like you have gotten it to burn cleanly by positioning the orifice closer to the throat to induce less air. Nice job. So long as the fuel air ratio is correct, mixed well, and delivered at a high enough velocity to not flash back into the mix tube, you are doing good on the combustion end of things. Your ejection velocity will be lower so your flame may ride deeper in your nozzle, potentially over heating it. If so, you can go to a tighter nozzle like a 3/4" coupling. You are correct, the orifice position fine tune's the air volume in the fuel air ratio. The orifice diameter determines fuel volume in the mix ratio and the total energy output per fuel pressure. Could you post a picture of your flame? I have not tried an 023 tip in a 3/4" mix tube and I would like to see what the flame looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another FrankenBurner Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I thought of a problem with my thinking. I said that your ejection velocity would be lower and talked about the nozzle size. I wasn't totally wrong. The ejection velocity per pressure will be lower, however, because of the lower energy output, you will be running higher fuel pressures to compensate. This makes your ejection velocity higher per energy output. Mikey burners use a smaller orifice running a higher pressure compared to the Frosty T's running the larger orifice at lower pressures. They can both output equivalent energy but the Mikey's eject at higher velocities when doing so. Both ways get the job done. I currently prefer the slower end of the spectrum and have designed my burners to slow things down as much as I can without lowering output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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