Frosty

T Burner Illustrated Directions

Recommended Posts

Here it is finally. Spanky spent a lot of her valuable time reading the galleys and editing for me or this would be a real mess. She won't accept credit on the document as the editor either. Thank you Spanky!

 T Burner Directions finished.pdf

Here's hoping this clears up some of the questions.

Frosty The Lucky.

T Burner Directions finished.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Frosty, I will give this a try some day when I want to build a gas forge. Looks really easy to follow. Nice work. And thanks Spanky for the editing. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Frosty. Quick question. I was looking at the last two picts in your PDF. in one it looks like your 6" nipple goes into a 45 deg street elbow and pipe flange which I assume is connected to the forge shell. Last pict it looks like the 6" nipple goes into a coupling or protector that is welded to a small piece of flat bar to connect it to the shell. Does the burner stop right there or does it extend inside the forge? If there's no extension inside the shell, how do you seal that connection? Coser large picts would help.

 

The 45 deg angle and pipe flange solves some of the issues I had attaching the burner to the forge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry about misplacing the post, I'm sure Admin will straighten it out for me.

The pics of T burners on forges are just that, the 4 burner forge is my present shop forge. Yes, the burner tube is screwed into a 3/4" thread protector which is welded to a home made 14ga. "washer". Hole saws are wonderful things. The thread protector extends a an inch or so into the forge liner and the liner expands slightly to avoid restriction. I dipped the thread protector into Kaolin slip to help extend it's life in a HIGH temperature environment. It seems to have worked pretty well.

The pic of the burners screwed into street 45s then into a 3/4" floor flange is exactly that, how those are mounted on my new forge. I may have really shot myself in the foot with that rig. I tried to do too many new things at once so it's being a real BEAR to tune. The reason the burners are angled back at a 45 is to get the air intake ports farther away from the dragon's breath.

Then there's the idea I had for shaping the burner flame. Using the same cross sectional area as a 1:12 ratio flare I shaped it into a fan and angled it back away from the front of the forge. The idea behind that was to first shape the flame to effect more of the forge and make for more even heat. Angling them back was to induce a horizontal vortex in the chamber so the flame would recirculate from floor to back wall and up, then across the roof and be caught by the burner flame and go around again. Hopefully (I HOPED :unsure:) there would be a curtain of fire to help prevent inducing outside air into the chamber so I could run my burners leaner without causing an oxidizing atmosphere.

Is that confusing you? Ayup, and therein lays the reason for changing things ONE at a time, not in job lots like I did.

I've tried both new burners in a test rig, basically screwed a thread protector on and fired them in my shop forge. Both burners are tuned as burners. Unfortunately they don't operate properly in the new "Frosty over thought ANOTHER one:rolleyes:" forge.

And for you guys who think I'm just dumping on you for a new idea, I hold this up as an example of, "been there done that." Generally speaking.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Frosty, I will give this a try some day when I want to build a gas forge. Looks really easy to follow. Nice work. And thanks Spanky for the editing. 

Hey, like I told Frosty, all I did was pretty it up, he did all the actual work.  My only suggestions were for clarity, figured if he could make it simple enough for ME :huh:to build one then pretty much anyone could.  He has a right to be proud of the final document. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for putting this together. I have been wanting to put make in of these,  but  was hesitant because I was not entirely clear on how to do it.

I will be putting a burner together for a brick pile forge before winter comes. Currently I'm using repurposed water heater to burn charcoal but I won't be able to move that into my garage when the snow starts flying.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My thanks to Frosty and Spanky.  The detailed descriptions, pictures, and illustrations helped clarify a few things I was unsure of, so hats off to you two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If his unedited text is anything like mine...

woman, you earned your praise!

Exactly Charles, without Spanky editing, it was just another rambly cluster of crossed up descriptions I couldn't cut enough to make clear. When she says "Clear enough for ME" she's being awfully darned humble. But making it clear enough for her to grasp was something I wasn't able to do editing myself.

Sure, give me a chalk board in person and I can talk a person through a build in about 15 minutes. In text is a whole different world and I recognize well written clear documents. (that sure sounds presumptuous to me) Mine wasn't, all the info was there but it wasn't in a form that was of much help to folk who couldn't figure the things out on their own.

Without Spanky this wouldn't be available, you guys owe her, she translated mind scrambled fog to something understandable.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

downloaded and saved.  Thanks for your contributions to the smithing community.  You're an invaluable resource. 

Aw phsaw Bryan. I don't know about the invaluable thing I'm just passing things along I picked up from others.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed a giant whiteboard in our living room for just that purpose.... And for teaching the little guy stuff. He's 3 and all, so... Now if only iI could remember all the words to thatABC song... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Frosty, your diagram appears to show a tapered MIG tip. Is the taper important? Or will the cylindrical ones work just as well?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Frosty, your diagram appears to show a tapered MIG tip. Is the taper important? Or will the cylindrical ones work just as well?

No, I hand sketched the mig tip and it just came out that way. Wayne (I think) and some of the other guys swear by the tapered contact tips but I've never tried one so I don't have an opinion. Next time I buy a bag of tips I will though I'm for anything reasonable that makes a tool work better.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I hand sketched the mig tip and it just came out that way. Wayne (I think) and some of the other guys swear by the tapered contact tips but I've never tried one so I don't have an opinion. Next time I buy a bag of tips I will though I'm for anything reasonable that makes a tool work better.

Frosty The Lucky.

thanks. I already have some straight tips and was just wondering if I needed to pick up some tapered ones for this. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some designs are probably finicky enough that the tapered tip makes a difference, albeit a fairly small one (and if it's a "build it exactly like this and it will not need any tuning" design, it is very likely it will be that finicky).

Since with Frosty's design, the tuning is done by cutting back the tip, it probably doesn't matter at all: it's just one of several variables the tuning process will deal with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some designs are probably finicky enough that the tapered tip makes a difference, albeit a fairly small one (and if it's a "build it exactly like this and it will not need any tuning" design, it is very likely it will be that finicky).

Since with Frosty's design, the tuning is done by cutting back the tip, it probably doesn't matter at all: it's just one of several variables the tuning process will deal with.

I believe this is the case. The air flow doesn't pass the jet lengthwise and largely intakes down stream from it so whatever turbulence the jet imparts is minimal.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally sourced a regulator locally and plan on putting my burner together this weekend (as long as I can finish the honey do list). The plumbing supply told me their pipe comes with plastic thread protectors now. Any suggestions on what I should use for a flare instead? Or is it okay to go without?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.