Xaiver

Quieting an anvil

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I know, this has come up a thousand times. 

So I've read up on it and have tried magnets on the heel and horn. They work a little, but it now sounds like iI have a slightly smaller bell than before. 

My anvil came from the in laws, who got it from someone else years ago. I imagine that this thing has changed hands a bit. 

Anyhow, somewhere along the line it was cut off at the waist and mounted to a fairly tall steel iI beam. The bolts aren't firmly attached though, the anvil will Rock a bit. 

Below the iI beam, iI mounted it on a box made from a laminated  beam on end. It walks a bit if I'm really going to town with the hammer or hitting in the ends

 

Anyhow, the magnets only partially helped. Would iI better off to try and put some silicon between the anvil and the beam? Or maybe iI need a giant magnet... 

Tested using welding magnets. 

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I beam is about as noisy as you can get.  Can you divorce the two and mount it on a solid?

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I hadn't really dug into it to see, but I'm inclined to believe that the bolts are welded on... And iI can't just pull the anvil off... Tried that, it's held fast. 

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Try a couple of loose wraps of light chain around it.  You want to dampen the vibration to kill the noise.

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Bury the I beam in dirt if you can't get the anvil off.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I'm with Thomas, separating it from the ibeam is going to be your best bet in terms of noise reduction.  Can you find a way to cut the bolts off and then maybe mount it on wood or something less "resonant"?  

My Peter Wright sang like a girl until I re-mounted it with rubber mats between the anvil and wood base, and then strapped it down with metal strapping, cinched up tight against the rubber.  I also use magnets under heel and horn.  

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Very loud anvils that are now quiet and sound like cast iron. They are bolted tight to the tree stump. Not simply with nails, but long lag screws and brackets. I also use several wraps of chain about the waist.

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I bolted mine down with lag bolts and a peice of flat bar drill holes just out side of the feet and it's pretty quiet makes a bit of noise when you work the horn but it's pretty quiet just a thud most of the time unless your getting cold

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So iI should be trying to quiet the I-beam too. That's what iI was wondering. Looks like iI should make some chain then to try that. 

Otherwise, along the lines of what frosty said, would it help if iI built a bit of a box around the beam and filled that with sand or dirt? 

The beam has some nice flatspots sticking out that make nice upsetting ledges, so iI would prefer to find something other than removing it. 

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As it is already choped up, do you have acces to a weldor with skills? Certainly tightening the anvil to the "I" beam and a bed of silicone will help, as will filling in the spaces in the beam with wood bolted threw, but welding a beter base to the anvil, either a stake or a pust would be advantagius. One could fabricate a 3 leged stand with a hevy bock and have it welded down, or cut it apart, and have it milled and drilled (at the bottom) and bolt threw a thick plate) as its already frankenstined a solid post, the thickness of the waist filull penitration welded would be ideal. Pictures would help

I would imagine seting it in a box or barel of dirt, sand or even cement (not normaly recomended as repeated impacks break it up, but if the I beam reaches the ground it, theirfor taking most of the pounding it should live a good wile. 

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Attach magnets to the I beam. Those $4.00 HF tool holding strips work well. Also, sound deadening mat for vehicles on the I beam will help. The asphalt based roofing peel and seal helps too, but not as much as the butyl based vehicle deadening. I wouldn't put it on the anvil though, just the I beam.

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I can't see your set-up with the eyes of my mind, but I think you can try to fit some wood on the sides/voids of the I-beam, bolted or maybe better "glued" with silicone. that will kill the noise from the beam. if your anvil is bolted tight to the beam, it will be quieted also.

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Not sure if you want to go this route, but I'd be very tempted to cut the I-beam just below the top plate and then bolt that plate to a new stand - probably wooden. The pictures may be deceiving due to angles, but it appears to be pretty high.

 

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Yikes, not the way I imagined it at all.. 

If your dead set on retaining the "I" beam i would certainly laminate 2x stock to fill in the sides. It will quite and stiffen the web. I would also trim the top flange, especialy tord the horn, but posibly the heal as well. A bit of work with a hot axe and you could have a nifty 3 leged stand. Slice the web and bottom flange off, sculpt the web to make the back legs (think plywood table) and the bottom flange as the front leg and brace/ stiffener. Trim the top flange and the scrap becomes gusets, feat and leg extensions. 

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That's a gong. Try strapping a couple sand bags to the web till you can get it cut off that piece of wide flange and remounted to something better. Mounting it on wood will only let it resonate longer so it's going to be louder for longer.

Honest, I'd have my cutting torch out or taking gouging rod to the welds before I struck anything on it. I'd rescue it if I could but I'd never use it if I had a choice.

Do you have a welder? I suppose if I couldn't find a chunk of steel large enough to replace it's body and feet and I just HAD to use it I'd start welding steel into it. Criss crossing strap and bar between the flanges against the web. Different lengths and weights of NON STRUCTURAL SHAPES will disrupt the resonance and help turn the ear splitting ring into a clang.

I see Charles and I have been writing at the same time again.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I'm with the others: if you have some way to cut that off, do so. I'd even pitch the idea of cutting off the topmost part of the beam (the "table" with the anvil) and find some way to bolt that to a new base that you can easily dampen.

Barring that, Frosty and Charles are on a good wavelength.

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I've got a 4 inch angle grinder and a stick welder. 

So you guys don't think that tightening it down to the top ofthe ibeam  will help? That was the theory that iI got before iI posted the pictures. 

My plan was to tighten the anvil down and then fill between it and the beam with metal Anna weld like crazy.... 

Then iu was going to fill in the sides of the beam with wood, probably glue it in and then strap it around the waist with steel. 

Should iI discard that idea? 

Edit : I'm notdrunk, my phone doesn't like typing here for some reason. 

Edited by Xaiver

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Cut it off. Banging steel on I beam is one of the loudest, most irritating sounds you can make. If it was attached vertically it might be a LITTLE more quiet. I have a short, (about 15") heavy piece that I use very often for all kinds of things but never for forging. I put the car audio sound deadener on it because I have a lot of it and it quieted it significantly but I wouldn't want to forge on it and the piece you have is taller.

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It's mostly angles for why it looks so tall. It is a little higher than the recommended height, but iI haven't had any troubles with it there. 

Second photo is from my chair,third  is the best iI can get for between the anvil and the beam. 

It looks like they cut a hole in the beam at center and then bolted the anvil to this little plate and then welded the plate on the beam. 

20151015_145222.jpg

20151015_145251.jpg

20151015_145307.jpg

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Well, you currently have about the worst case scenario for ringing, so just about anything you try is likely to be an improvement.  One of my dad's favorite sayings is "Try the easy things first."   What's easiest and least expensive for you to try?   If it doesn't require much time or money then that's where I'd start. Cutting the vertical portion of the beam with a 4 inch grinder and cutoff wheels is doable, but it will probably take several wheels and then you'll still have to grind it flat because you won't be able to get right up against the horizontal plate while cutting.

In your situation I probably would try putting some tight fitting lumber against the web between the horizontal plates and strapping it in tight and then testing to see if I could live with it, but I wouldn't be too optimistic about it.

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NO, NOT wood! If you've ever made or looked at a percussion instrument say triangle you'll notice it's mounted on leather or . . . WOOD. Wood won't damp the vibrations (SOUND) and you want to damp the sound. You would do better (Literally) gluing rocks to the web.

Unbolt that thing and use the wide flange (you're calling I Beam) for something else. Coupling the anvil to the wide flange better will increase it's ability to resonate making it louder.

If you've ever touched a cymbal, triangle, etc. while it's ringing you've experienced a damped reverberation. That's what you need to do, disrupt the resonance. Just taking it off that wood stand and sitting it on bare concrete or dirt will help.

Remove it from the wooden stand, find a wooden box it will fit inside with a little room. Block it to your working height and fill the box with sand or dirt. If you lean or JB Weld different lengths of rebar against DIFFERENT heights of the web before you fill it with dirt it will help.

Frosty The Lucky.

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To be honest, the quieting part is mostly for the neighbors, who haven't said anything yet. I don't terribly mind the bell sounds... Makes me feel like I'm being accompanied by a choir of really loud bell ringers. 

Welive in the middle of town. Most of the neighbors are old folks. One house next to us is vacant. 

I can't get at the base of the bolts. They're inside the center of the top plate. My only option for divorcing the two is to cut it off.... With a 4 inch grinder. 

So what I'm understanding is that, barring that, welding it to the beam thing would only increase the sound. 

If iI put some sand or dirt about the thin part of the beam it might help, especially if iI made a method of sound dispersal first. 

Would it also help if iI filled the hollow wooden box on the bottom with the same? 

I'm sorry, I'm not meaning to reject your thoughts, I'm just searching for the simplest way to make a bit of improvement without overhauling the whole setup. 

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Simplest? 4x4 heavy wall structural tubing, cut a plate for both ends (its not like you don't have enugh if you cut up that "I" beam) fill the tube imwith sand and oil, bolt the anvil (apareantly it has bolt holes drilled and taled to the top, bolt the botom to the cement floor.... 

Better would be to sorce a 4" solid drop, full penitration welds set 2 1/2 feet into the floor

Another option, would be a 3" solid square section say 6-12" full penitration welds, laminated stump With the 3" socket. Kind of like a spanish stake anvil

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