Shaping a hammer handle

[Seek]

My few hammers all have very straight handles. I suspect this doesn't help for the fatigue in my hand. So I would like to shape them a bit. But I really have no idea how a decent handle should look like. Do any of you have some images i could work from?

 

[Charles R. Stevens]

This realy depends on personal preference. Tool companies generaly stock a "blacksmiths handle" wich works well out of the box, but if your hand is small generaly one ends up shaving all for sides down, so you have a rughfly 1.5:1 rectagle with rounded corners. You want your fingers to just barly touch, or come just shy of the base of your thumb. 

[Kozzy]

Do a google image search for "ergonomic hammer handle".  There seem to be quite a few variations and it might give you some inspiration.  There are even some ball-pein hammers with super short handles...Is stubby-short somehow better than just choking up on a longer handle which gives you more holding options?

Reality is, what people like will be as varied as the number of people you ask.  For instance, large diameter handles now inflame my thumb arthritis whereas I used to prefer them.  If they are for your use, experiment--and once you find what works best for you it'll be solved.  There might be a few misses on the way to a home run but each miss brings you a step closer.

 

The trend seems to be hammers with a bow in the handle so it looks sort of like this.  Never used one so can't say if it's a nightmare.  Seems to me that every time you changed hammers the handle would change and that'd end up throwing you off in use whereas a straight handle is essentially the same in your hand from tack-hammer to sledge.

 

[JHCC]

When I modded a hand sledge into a rounding hammer (like the middle pic in Charles's post, above), I filed a small flat onto the same side of the handle as the flat face of the hammer. It's an instant tactile cue as to which way the hammer is pointed.

[Frosty]

When I modded a hand sledge into a rounding hammer (like the middle pic in Charles's post, above), I filed a small flat onto the same side of the handle as the flat face of the hammer. It's an instant tactile cue as to which way the hammer is pointed.

Oh darn my secret is out!!

I like slab handles. I use 5/4" x 6" lumber from a specialty cabinet hardwood yard near here. My handles are tapered from the head to the end with a small knob. I round the edge facing the pein and just break the corners on the face edge. I usually don't need to look to know which way my hammer's facing unless I'm distracted by say Demo patter and questions.

It's good theater to spin my hammer in my hand to change sides audiences love the show and it wow's them. Demo is theater and good theater instructs.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Latticino]

Great description,  can almost see it, but How about a photo? 

[Sweany]

One of my favorite handle treatments I learned from Bill Epps. Poke the handle in the forge and blacken it. Quickly wire brush the handle vigorously. 

The handle is  now more "Grippy".  Not my hammer but you get the point.

No pics, but your hand should feel comfortable holding the hammer. Have someone pull on the hammer head, it should not be easily pulled from your hand without a lot of work on your part.

Anvilfire has a really good "hammer control" article # 6 on the how to page.

[VaughnT]

I prefer a sledge-hammer handle as opposed to the spindly little handles most folks call a hammer handle.  While I don't mind the swell on most of them, I don't like how thin they get right under the head.  Doesn't make much sense to have it thick where you grip it some times and then thin where you grip it other times.  Or maybe I'm the only one that regularly chokes up on any hammer over 2.5lbs.

Some folks like their handles to have a more square cross-section, but I've never had a problem with how store-bought sledge handles are shaped.  I can get three shorter handles from a single sledge handle.  All I do is take them to the wire wheel to remove the polyurethane finish, then paint them with really thinned down boiled linseed oil.  
 

In this photo, the handle on the punch is the OEM handle that used to be on the cross-peen.  Far too small to help control a 3.5# hammer head, so I reached into my bucket of bits and bobs for a replacement.  Night and day difference in how the hammer handles.

Edited October 6, 2015 by VaughnT

[matto]

the nice thing about wood handles is that you can rehandle them if you don't like the shape.  try different ones if they don't work then rehandle,  or try different handle shapes from people in your nearest club.  for thought where to start try mark aspery's first book.  

[Charles R. Stevens]

Some folks just have hams for hands, Vaughn. Muself, sledges are fine with the bigger handle (tho I bob them 6" for anvil work) but not so much the lighter handles. 

I am thinking of hafting my 4# hand sledges as 4# sledges for the better half and the girls. Besides TJ, they are the only ones dumb enugh to strike for me.

[Rashelle]

My preference is slab handles. Rounded corners, a little round on the narrow sides. I like a slight bulbousness on the end but rarely bother putting one on a slab handle, as that means starting with bigger wood worked down by hand. If I use a tool store handle, I aggressively bring it down to my small hand size.

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning,

I make my handles from old Pallets (Nahum Hersom made all his repousse handles from pallets). I cut them into rectangular strips, rough shape them in the bandsaw and  shape them on my metal lathe (yes you can use a metal lathe to cut wood). After you sand them, you can put a little linseed oil on the wood, as a seasoning. No shiny varnish stuff.

Asking about Hammer Handles is like asking about underwear. What you like, I don't. Some like the neck of the handle to be small, so it will wipp and be springy. Some drill two holes and make a cut between the holes to create more spring. Sometimes I make large handles, radius top and bottom, little flat sides. So my thumb won't touch my fingers. Easier on the arthritis.

The secret is to hold your hammers between the side of your thumb and the side of your index finger. Use your little finger to control the motion of the handle when at full height. NEVER hold your thumb on the top of the handle, it will cause Tennis Elbow. if you are holding your hammer correct, someone should be able to pull it out of your hand, mid-stroke.

I use an elastic band from a bundle of broccoli, on the outside of your finger nails, to exercise your fore-arm muscles the opposite way from holding a hammer. Slowly open your fingers, relax, open your fingers, relax. Do this a few times, a few times a day. if it hurts, don't push it. I keep the elastic around the outside of my wallet, so I don't loose it. (no, it's not there to keep the moths in)

Neil

 

[Seek]

Thanks for the pictures and the comments. It's all quite subtle I see, but I might try a bit of a bulge in the middle and a bit of an idea of a knob at the end. Keeping the sides flat.

 

[VaughnT]

Remember, Seek, you can always shrink a handle that's too big, but you can't grow a handle that's too small.  Start with a standard sledge-hammer handle, or hoe handles, something you can easily source at the hardware store, and sand/file/rasp until you find that comfort point that balances controllability and comfort.  No varnish or polyurethane to coat them.  No fancy carving that looks cool but causes hot spots and blisters.  Simple, clean lines that speak to the spirit of the working man.

Half the fun is in traveling the path and discovering new things.

[DanielC]

Cutler style. One of my hammers.

 

[jukejoint]

Brent Bailey has a video on making handles