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I Forge Iron

25 lb Little Giant won't "idle"


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I bought a 25 LG (new style) and I'm trying to get it working. It's in fantastic condition and looks like it's hardly been used. It was probably last used in about 1980 ? I put a new 1.5 hp motor with a double pulley and v-belt drive on it, and when I switch it on, it hammers at full speed. I've oiled the blocks and all the oil and grease points detailed on the Little Giant website, and I'm not sure what to try next. Is there an adjustment screw for the clutch ? There is no visible wear on the blocks and there is just enough room to slip a thin business card between the blocks and the wheel (that they press against). I was thinking of reversing the direction the motor turns, maybe the hammer ran the other direction in it's previous life ? 

 

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Without turning it on, can you freely rotate the flywheel without binding on the spider?  You should be able to cycle everything by hand with little effort - especially on a 25.  I have seen clutch blocks that were not properly sized so they make contact when at rest but there may be something else binding.

If you can't determine the problem, remove both clutch blocks and see if it still binds.

Edited by HWooldridge
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ok-good idea about removing the clutch blocks, that would be an easy test.

Before I oiled everything, I could pull on the belt by hand and the clutch would stick and the hammer would go up and down. Now if I rotate by hand, the clutch sticks and rotates maybe 10 degrees, then slips and falls back. 

@ Jeremy: At first, if I would step on the treadle, sometimes the clutch blocks would stick in the "on" position. I put a bunch of bar-and-chain oil on the clutch-collar area, now the spring returns everything pretty quickly when I take my foot off the treadle. Pulling up on the treadle doesn't do anything, the spring pulls it all the way up.

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Interesting....I removed both wooden clutch blocks, and nothing seems to have changed. It hammers fast with the motor on, and the "spider"? clutch wheel thing still turns a little when I move the belts by hand. It must be sticking somewhere else....

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Good Morning,

The only friction place between the 2 shafts is the clutch. They must turn separate of each other.

If you have the clutch apart and they are still binding, the world famous rust/oxidation is not allowing them to be separate. Take the grease fitting out and try to work some "Fluid Film" (it is a penetrant and a lubricant. Should be available from any auto/heavy truck parts facility). Go slow, don't be in a hurry, the two will free-up.

Neil

 

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It may have some old grease/crud inside that is wanting to hold the shaft and clutch pulley together - not much else it could be if the blocks are not hanging up and the spring is holding the treadle up so the treadle rod releases the clutch from the spider. Give it a good soaking of WD40 to help loosen some of the old grease up as you turn things by hand with the cord UNPLUGGED.

You could always call Little Giant and talk to them about it.

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I think I got it. I sprayed the crap out of it, literally, by dousing all the wearing surfaces where wheel meets shaft with half a can each of degreaser, WD-40 and PB blaster (rusty nut loosener) I am now unable to move the flywheel by spinning the big pulley wheel, and it spins quite freely now. I could feel it getting easier with each ounce of petroleum distilate I sprayed on. I'm going to re-oil and re-grease everything and give it a go....

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Seems to work now;  it runs on, once I step on the treadle, but I might just need to go back and do another pass of the cleaning. It probably wouldn't hurt to add a  brake as well.

Thanks to Hwooldridge, Jeremy K and swedefiddle for taking the time to help me out !

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Good Morning Potatoeman

I suggested that you use "Fluid Film" for a reason. It is a great grease cutter, but it is better at leaving a residue that will lubricate the pieces when you get them freed up. No damage. I work on a lot of old and Heavy equipment, it is in my right hand!!! WD40 dries up.

Neil

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