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I Forge Iron

Number of burners

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I can't stand this forbidden stuff.

Yeah, you me and a whole bunch of us too.

The way he opened the tank it's hard to estimate blanket thickness. I think print the pics out and take a compass to it you can use objects in the pic of known dimension to infer a good estimate.

Personally I like 2" minimum on the Kaowool.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I bought the tank at Home hardware 5 gal. portable air tank there are 2" of ceramic blanket and the floor is 1" thick

firebrick then I coated everything with two coats of ITC.-100 . The jet I'm using at this time is .043 drill bit #57 and I also a .046 jet

If you go to this link there are pictures of the complete build http://s283.photobucket.com/user/baja47/library/Building a Forge?sort=2&page=1

Before costing


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  • 2 months later...


To begin with the pipe fitting on the burner's rear, was an EXCELLENT choice; both for size and for shape: The front opening on your forge is way large, but using stacked bricks or a kiln shelf with a much smaller opening cut in it (just enough to pass stock through) will up your internal temps and protect you from dragon's breath. Before permanently placing the bricks or kiln shelf in position, move this external baffle closer, and then further away from the forge opening to ascertain how much space between them is optimal. Paint the forge interior with ITC-100 or a homemade high emissive coating, along with the side of your baffle plate that faces the forge, and the next photo you take should show a yellow forge interior.

General Google,

As to forge size,

I think you would be happier with either a two gallon Freon bottle tunnel forge heated by two 1/2" burners, or a five gallon equivalent size oval forge heated by a 3/4" burner. if you don't want to build a brick pile forge...at first

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  • 3 weeks later...

He has done a great job on the burner, but needs to add a flat washer to it, thus sealing the burner port against secondary air induction. He also needs to put a brick wall a little way from the forge's front edge to keep all the radiant energy in the forge from leaving with the exhaust gases.

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  • 3 weeks later...


My advice to you is to build two forges; a tunnel forge, and a brick pile forge. The tunnel forge should probably be made from a two-gallon Freon cylinder, although most people use a five gallon propane cylinder to overbuild an all-to-large version, instead; unless you are building parts professionally, this is too much tool for the job. Most scroll-work done by professionals is heated twice (in the five-0gallon forge). The first heat allows flattening and curling of the scroll end. The second heat allows this form to be fit into a scroll pan, and a four to six inch inner scroll to be formed; at this point the outer scroll arch can be cold bent around another form, or for very thick bar stock, the scroll is reheated in a brick pile forge and hot bent around a secondary scroll pan. And yes, this is the "voice of experience" speaking with you.

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