Frosty Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Oh come on Ian, the forge is always perfecter on the other side of the fence. Everybody knows that. I was both agreeing with and taking a friendly poke at Mike. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Frosty, The search for the "perfect forge" is like the search for "truth"; it's not a destination, but a journey. I like this journey, just as you like pounding iron; may we both be happy with our lot, and may others benefit from more choices. I get the occasional thrill from a new "Formula One bit of equipment every now and then. After fifteen years in ornamental iron, artwork lost all romance for me, but learning and inventing is still a kick alter fifty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Burner blocks are especially useful in brick pile forges, but homemade multi-layered burner blocks are a valuable addition to any burner design. Most burners have large secondary flames, partly because they are not designed to feed a gas/air mixture at sufficient speed to operate well with a tube and spacer type flame nozzle, and therefore the flame isn’t exposed to a double ignition source. But, refractory flame nozzles can be heated well past temperatures that would melt a stainless steel nozzle without even sagging out of shape, and unlike metal flame nozzles that must be sheltered from full furnace heat, will become just as hot as the equipment interior, inevitably producing superior combustion; they will stand up to very high temperatures, allowing hotter fuels, and/or oxygen enrichment to become practical choices in heating equipment. Still, building and using a burner block has its own problems, which can be reduced by employing carbide encrusted hole saws to drill through squares of high alumina kiln shelves (these are very resistant to shock from rapid thermal cycling and direct flame impingement), which can then be stacked to reach the desired depth for use as a flame nozzle, with the first layer cut the width and length of a brick, to act as the hot-face; these parts can then be aligned in a wooden form, with castable refractory of your choice added to form a standard brick, or any other desired shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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