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bw94

Trying to build a gas forge

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Yes Thor, Our techniques are evolving and improving.  I have been smithing for 16 years and have seen many changes (improvements) during that time.  There has been much miss-information too.  You must be careful, study, experiment and persevere.  You too can learn a lot in a short time,,,,, but you will never learn it all. 

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I thank all of yall for yalls wisdom and helping out the new people on this forum! I made a little progress on my forge, I cut it down the length from 18" to 14", welded on the burner holders, and built one 1/2" T burner. I've tried running in open air out side the forge and also tried running in the forge, it'll run at low psi but when I turn it up past 5 psi it goes out. I've tried different lengths of mig tips, I've cut about a 1/4" off of one, I think I may need to go a little shorter. The mig tips are .23, overall length of 1". Sorry the pictures are rotated

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That jet is WAY too close to the tube. To start tuning you want it about 1/2 way across the air intake, that's the GAP between jet and burner tube. Try cutting 1/2" off the one showing.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I've tried various lengths of mig tips, I've tried running without mig tip on and it'll work, I'm using .023 for the 1/2" and .035 for the 3/4", I'm thinking I may need to make the mig tip hole bigger. 

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What mr frosty was saying is the end of your tip needs to be only halfway into the opening of the cross t.  This is where you start it with when tuning. 

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I took it out of the T and tried just running the mig tip, it would run as long as I kept the flame on it, but went out when the flame is removed

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I've been getting forbidden or I would've replied sooner. You're not getting it, calm down.

Draw a circle on a piece of paper, draw a horizontal line through the center. The jet should NOT reach this line to start tuning. That is the starting gap. That is an illustration if you cut a mig tip to match a circle on a piece of paper rather than the air port on your burner I'm going to insist you wear a dunce cap and sit in a corner.

Taking the mig tips out, putting different ones in, lighting them without the burner attached  isn't going to do you any good at all. Just follow the steps, this isn't about randomly trying things till something "works". It's like doing algebra follow the steps and show your work.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Good Morning Frosty,

Was that "Machine the Mig Tip to look like a Dunce Cap" or Where/Wear the Dunce McCap??????:D:D

I made a Forge, using a 2" Pipe Tee. I have a support bracket that holds the jet holder "Aimed" at a belled piece of pipe (I screwed in a 2" long piece of pipe, heated and hammered it with a Ball Pien so it looks like a big funnell) on the air/fuel intake of the center of the "Tee". I made the jet holder so you can move it in or out or wiggle it around. I made this "Forge" so people could SEE how important it is for the jet to be in 'Absolute Center', not just close. I find it to be a great Teaching Tool. I screw 6"(+/-) pieces of pipe in the 2 ends of the run, It works for heating small things as well. It worked better when I put a little Refractory at the center of the "Tee".

Neil

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Frosty, I understand what your saying  by have the tip at least halfway across the air intake to start tuning, but like I said, I've tried different lengths from 1/2 to 1/4 and everywhere in between. I can't get it to run to even start tuning. I've deburred the holes after cutting them down. Maybe I need to put on the dunce cap and sit in the corner!

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How are you deburring? The last pic is looking close. You are lighting it in the forge yes?

Post a pic of the flame one in the door one from the side so I can see what the dragon's breath looks like.

Frosty The Lucky.

Good Morning Frosty,

Was that "Machine the Mig Tip to look like a Dunce Cap" or Where/Wear the Dunce McCap??????:D:D

I made a Forge, using a 2" Pipe Tee. I have a support bracket that holds the jet holder "Aimed" at a belled piece of pipe (I screwed in a 2" long piece of pipe, heated and hammered it with a Ball Pien so it looks like a big funnell) on the air/fuel intake of the center of the "Tee". I made the jet holder so you can move it in or out or wiggle it around. I made this "Forge" so people could SEE how important it is for the jet to be in 'Absolute Center', not just close. I find it to be a great Teaching Tool. I screw 6"(+/-) pieces of pipe in the 2 ends of the run, It works for heating small things as well. It worked better when I put a little Refractory at the center of the "Tee".

Neil

If you're actually putting the refractory in the T you're going to need to wear the dunce cap Mr. McNeil. :P

I need a pic, I'm not seeing what you mean in my dented up head's view screen. Some I get, some is just . . .weird looking.

Frosty The Lucky.

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If you're actually putting the refractory in the T you're going to need to wear the dunce cap Mr. McNeil. :P

I need a pic, I'm not seeing what you mean in my dented up head's view screen. Some I get, some is just . . .weird looking.

Frosty The Lucky.

Neil is saying the 2"T is the Forge. The burner comes in on the drop leg.

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Neil is saying the 2"T is the Forge. The burner comes in on the drop leg.

ARGHHH! Putting my dunce cap on now. Is 5 mins. in the corner long enough?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Made some more progress of the forge, I still have a few more things to do. This is with 1 burner running at about 20 psi

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I don't know why my pictures are alway rotated

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Put that thing to work. If you have two burners light the other one till it gets hot then idle it back and one will maintain good working heat. If it won't keep yellow heat open the second one up more.

The flame has a good shape and the dragon's breath looks nice and clean she's burning about neutral and a touch. One burner reaching mid high orange in 20 mins in a two burner forge is good.

Put it to work, you'll drive yourself crazy trying for perfection.

Frosty The Lucky.

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If you choose to buy your burners, I would recommend the Devil Forge burners being offered on eBay for fifty bucks; they are the best dollar value I've seen thus far.

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There are many burners that are proven.  There are many different forges and styles used to build them.  I have been researching building one for a few months now.  There is not allot if readily available info on how big a forge you  can build  ( is there such a thing as to big).  Can you overpower a forge  ( 1/2" might be good in this case but would 2 3/4 burners make it easier to get to higher temps making welding easier).  Would they hurt the forge and cause burn through?  These are the basic style questions newbee's like me try and find answers to.   Not trying to be difficult or highjack the thread but felt i needed to comment on this one.  

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After a certain point, more burners are not a practical solution for weak flame, because a larger volume of incoming flame creates a lot of outgoing exhaust gas, which is more desirable in flame throwers than forges. Make and tune the "T" burner right; don't  mount make more of them.

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Welcome aboard Livn-lg, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance.

Oh yeah it's easy to build too large a forge, most everybody's first is way larger than they end up using. The gas forge section of Iforge answers everything you've asked in this post, many times over. There is a practical rule of thumb for burner output to forge volume and shape. How to calculate your burner's output, how to: make and tune them, place, and aim them, etc. 

Pull up a comfy chair, keep a beverage and snacks handy and something to take notes on, I like graph paper for making sketches it's easy to scale. Oh, and get ready for many hours of profitable reading. Naw, you don't have to read the whole thing but if you read far enough to get a handle on how burners work and the jargon used to describe them you'll be able to ask better questions and understand the answers.

Frosty The Lucky.

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