PyroJoe Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Hey guys. I'm going to build this forge: https://youtu.be/71s6HpuG_hQ I have a 16 x 10 stainless steel pan, although, I'm not sure if i should insulate it, and i i should, is this good? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Hercules-1-2-gal-Furnace-Stove-Cement-35515/202078154/ here is a pic of the pan: http://imgur.com/guRSEmZAlso, will the wood be okay so close to the heat like that? Edited August 7, 2015 by PyroJoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neg Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Forget that, just use a break drum. You can get one cheap from any scrapyard. You can pick up some steel to forge while you're there, too. Edited August 7, 2015 by neg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Pans not quit deep enugh for forge welding. I recomend a 7-8" deep pan/box for a side blast, 4-5" for a bottom blast. I find brake drums to be more pain not enugh gain. From the bottom, 2" fire risistant insulation (hard fire brick, adobe, clay, sand, ash etc.) 1" from insulation to bottom of tuyeer (3/4" schedual 40 black pipe) 3-4" to top of forge box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 I've seen that video before. While it's a workable forge there's no need to do such a . . . cluge of a job. There is ZERO benefit from using stainless for the pan and furnace cement is a total waste of time and money. Look around for something longer and deeper but not so wide and the bottom doesn't need to be flat. There is a really nice little forge being sold that is made up of fire bricks end to end at a 90* angle making a V forge.Just find an old discarded steel box, think old ammo can, fuse box, etc. anything say 10" or more long and at least 6" wide. Now just cut the corner out lengthwise (6" or more from the corner!) and you have your pan.Mount it V down in the box. Mount your side blast tuyere and do something tidier for a water bath if you want one. Personally I'd just mount a coupler in the box so I could replace pipe nipples in the fire as they burn up. Too easy.Oh yeah, forget a refractory liner, all you need is sandy clay. dig some clay from the garden, river bank dry puddle or pond. Mix it 2pts. sand to 1pt clay. You want it just barely damp enough to ram hard, squeeze a lump i your hand it should make a hard clod that breaks cleanly without leaving your hand wet or streaked with mud. If it crumbles add a LITTLE water, it it leaves your hand wet or muddy add dry material and let temper over night.If it's mud and you trowel it in it WILL shrink check (crack) as it dries and won't be porous enough to vent steam as it gets hot and WILL heat check (crack) in use.This type forge is nothing more than a dirt hole on a table top making it more complicated is a waste of time you could spend smithing instead.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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