Matt.L Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) So purchased 1095 flat stock sketch out my design and traced it out on my flat stockright now im finishing the cut out process and ware does the final sharpening fall intothis is as far as i no the process of the grinding knife making process pleas correct me if im wrongDesign>Cut out>beveling/hole drilling>Heat treating>tempering im curious where in that process does putting the final edge on the knife fall intoalso i have a belt sander for the beveling and a disk grinder i also have some japanese water stones i figured after all that i would use the water stones for polishing/sharpening etc thanks Edited July 16, 2015 by Matt.L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 It's pretty much that way. Between the HT and Temper cycle I like to carefully polish the blade to check for defects (cracks, warping) and to help read the temper colors. After temper is the final cleanup, polish and fitting the handle/guard. When grinding on a full hard blade be very careful and don't use hard wheels. Be careful not to over heat the blade during the final steps. As the edge thins down the belt sander can build up a lot of heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.L Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) i see well my steel came cold rolled and annealed when i was cutting out my shape with my disk grinder i made sure to regularly quench itso let me get this right so i understand after beveling and heat treating do i sharpen it with the belt sander then temper it then polish it or does the polishing come before tempering thanks sorry im very much a noob at this stuff also two other things if you dont mind me asking1. what do you suggest i quench it in when heat treating just plain water maby with salt or some type of oil?2. is it possible to temper it in a slow cooker you no for like turkey and chicken blah blah it goes up to 450Flike do i put it in for like an hour at a sertin temp then let it air cool then stick it back in for another hour? till i get like a wheat color Edited July 16, 2015 by Matt.L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Don't take the edge down too much before heat treating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 I'm sure it's mentioned on here somewhere just what the steps are in order. I will say you wanna wait till the end for sharpening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 You want to bring the edge down no less than the thickness of a dime before heat treat. That helps to avoid over heating the edge when HTing. Then after HT and temper, finish the edge keeping mind to not let it overheat and ruin the temper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Sharpening is right before shipping and after everything else. Now you do refine the edge after heat treat as part of the cleanup and polish; but the final razor edge is done *after* sheathmaking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.L Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 thanks thats great advice i was just gona bevel down to a point but i did not no it needed some thickness that is good adviceso after tempering then work on final sharpening with belt sander/ water stones/polishingso that last question is it possible to temper the blade in a slow cooker that goes up to 450F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 NO! do not sharpen until you have done the hilting and sheathmaking! And if you are not planning on a sheath just save some more time and take a razor blade and start cutting yourself with it. If you try to heat treat it with a sharp edge you are much more prone to failure. The thickness of an American dime is usually suggested if you are in America. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.L Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 i see so wait for sharpening after the handle and sheath are made but cant you just fix this by taping up the blade as to not acsidently cut yourself? and again the slow cooker is that possible or no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Temperature is temperature. I assume you will be using an oil bath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Good Morning Matt,Welcome, fill out your Avatar so we can see where you live. There is probably someone close to you that you can talk to. There is a HUGE section on Knife/Blade making that some of the full-time BladeSmiths put together. You are asking questions like this is your first (or nearly first) Blade. The Best way to learn is by reading the information the guys have worked so hard at making available. The 1st Fact, You will start by making mistakes, if you can't learn from your mistakes, STOP. Sitting at your keyboard instead of taking the time to read the information that is available here, annoys other members.Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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