Help figuring out weight of this Peter Wright anvil

[sinpwnzorz]

There is no front number. Or it is part of the missing gouge. Do Peter Wright anvils have a 0 when it is under 112 pounds? I wonder if it would be blank, or a 0. Trying to figure out if this anvil is worth picking up. It seems decent, I am guessing a cast iron base with a steel plate forge welded on top.

I assume it is 200 because as far as I could tell the other two numbers are 3 - 4 (Altho it looks like a 5, that isn't possible)

Thoughts from somebody a bit more experienced?

 

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Do you have a bathroom scale?

I see a 1_3_4 in the first picture. If so , 112#+84#+4# = 200#

PW's are not cast, they have a wrought body with a tool steel top plate. You anvil is marked ENGLAND, so that dates it after 1910.

If you put your location in your header, you may may find a member nearby who can help you out,

If you take a wire brush to the side of it the numbers, and letters will show up better.

Edited July 11, 2015 by BIGGUNDOCTOR

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Overall it looks in good shape, it is a great weight, and PW is a good maker.  The chipped edges can be dressed, and you don't want sharp ones anyways. Do a rebound test - which can be found in the forums search feature. If it passes, go for it.

As for price.....that will vary with location, condition, maker, and if the seller has looked it up on the internet  I pay $1 a pound,  others gladly pay $4+ a pound. It really comes down to what you can comfortably afford, not what others are willing to pay. You did not state the asking price, but if it was me........... I usually chat with the seller some before offering anything.

 First off-DO NOT LOOK EXCITED WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT!   I ask about where they got it, if it has any family history, look it over some-especially the chipping, let them know it will be used and not flipped or collected, I help other smiths in my area with loaner anvils, etc..

Then I make the offer, and I have cash in hand-all in Benjamin's.

Never, and I mean NEVER go to make an offer without the cash in hand.

All of that was in one post, but I had to chop it to get it on here----frustrating.

Maybe this is like Twitter..140 characters or less 

Merged by the moderator

[Frosty]

Oh there are a lot more than 140 Characters subscribed to Iforge Guns! 

I don't have anything to add to Gun's advice. And yes please put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance.

Well, okay I do have a couple things to add. If the word "antique" is spoken don't let it be YOU! It ain't an antique, it's just old and old isn't worth extra anything to a working tool.

I'd take a close look at the mark between the hardy hole and the center of the face. It might be a trick of the light but it might be a torch gouge too. If it's a torch gouge the anvil's value is half if you're generous.

The edges look fine, even the chips aren't going to hurt it as a tool. Once you've used it a year or two is the time to think about dressing the edges.

Oh shoot, I have to go to dinner now. It's Deb and my 19th. anniversary. I'd like to talk more but. . .

Frosty The Lucky.

Edited July 12, 2015 by Frosty

[Glenn]

A 3 - 4 should be 88 pounds. A 1 - 3 - 4 should be 200 pounds. It should be easy to tell the difference when you pick it up to put it on a bathroom scale to get an accurate weight.

[sinpwnzorz]

A 3 - 4 should be 88 pounds. A 1 - 3 - 4 should be 200 pounds. It should be easy to tell the difference when you pick it up to put it on a bathroom scale to get an accurate weight.

Yeah that's kinda what I figured. Laying flat I can't really pick it up without mechanical advantage, but it seemed quite light lifting it from the horn. I'm willing to bet anything it's 200lbs tho. If I grunt and strain I can lift 88lbs, I can't lift 200.

[John McPherson]

Either PW started using teeny-tiny letters at some point on the sub 100 pound anvils, or that is a 200 pounder.