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I Forge Iron

Shelf Brackets

Double Y

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I was commissioned to make these.

The legs are 14 inches long.  The main straps are 1 1/2 x 1/4, the support curves are 1 x 1/4.

The rivets are plug welded on the back and then hot textured to set.

I fulled the bend point and forged the edges down.  I drilled the holes, no style points for hot punching.

Hot waxed and burnished. 






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Very nice work.  I like the clean, simple lines.  Fullering the bend point is a brilliant idea and really makes the whole thing look upscale.  How did you figure the length you needed for the curve?  Did you mark the holes for the rivets after forming and drilling the curved portion?

Excellent stuff.

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Thank you.  No budget from the client for a more expensive version!  I gave them numerous options and they chose...less expensive.

I drew out the curve on the shop table with soapstone and measured the drawing.  I cut the pieces for the curve and then forged them to match.  I drilled the holes in the end of each curved piece first and then marked the legs to match.

I think they will be happy, when they get home from vacation.

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  • 6 months later...

The clients who ordered the first set of brackets came back for more.

These are 9 inches on the leg.  Made from 1 1/2 x 1/4 and 1 x 1/4.

I again fullered the bend point and blind plug welded the rivet, then hot set it.

I used Gilders Paste Wax as the finish applied while above black heat...above black heat cause it burnt my finger pretty good!

Miss Sims wrote and I paraphrase, The first time you get burnt it hurts, the second time you get burnt it still hurts, they third time you get burnt, yes there will be a third time, it still hurts!"

Second set of brackets.jpg


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41 minutes ago, tonyw said:

So the bracket would fit flush against the wall?


Was that in answer to my query? If so thank you, but that was not the issue of my query, my query was evidently awry.

Why would a countersunk rivet or riveting into a countersink not achieve a flush back surface?

I was asking to find out why it was welded rather than riveted, especially as it was then hot set, which could possibly have been done quicker without the welding stage...

...for instance maybe quicker to weld than make or buy counter sunk rivets...


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You guys have pretty much been answering your own questions - I have been out in the wilds of North Dakota in the winter...I don't recommend it.

I countersunk the back of the bar stock for the rivet and welded it in for extra stability.  I know it would have been tight and strong just simply hot set, but I wanted zero wiggle.


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  • 3 weeks later...

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