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AndrewP26

55 gal brake drum forge

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Here is my take on the 55 gal brake drum forge using 2 drums a 15 dollar hair dryer. I haven't had a chance to fire it up yet. But I'm hoping to here within the next few days.

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An exhaust flap cap on the ash dump works much more easily than a pipe cap. That setup will be a major hassle to dump. Go ahead, ask me how I know ;) With the screw cap any flammable gasses that accumulate in the tuyere and ignite will have to blow out through the blow drier and up through the air grate. A flap cap just flaps open and dumps the ash minimizing blow back through the drier or firing sparks out of the pot.

Frosty The Lucky.

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My first solid fuel forge I used holes much like what you have simply because that's what I kept seeing. But after seeing slots mentioned here and a few other places several times over a couple months I decided to give it a shot. My setup looks similar to what Glenn shows and it works better now than the holes ever did. It clogs less and it's easier to push ash out of the fire. I won't go back for anythin.

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Ok Maybe before I fire it up I'll just cut slots real quick in it. And I'll look into a exhaust flap cap instead of the screw on.

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If the bottom barrel had a bigger hole I'd suggest what I've been usin for the last few months. I have my ash pipe drop down a few inches into a five gallon bucket with water comin up just about an inch from the bottom of the pipe. It was suggested to me by one of the wonderfully experienced people here and as he pointed out to me, the only drawback is movin that thing when it starts gettin full of ash.

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Ah ok. Now I'm thinking I'll cut the lower hole larger and taller and just put a stainless bucket I have under the dump. 

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would their be any advantage to using a larger brake drum,  Buddy of mine kicked off a brake drum from his shop today in my driveway.

looks better suited for a fire pit. LOL

 

 

 

forge rim 002.JPG

forge rim 001.JPG

Edited by FRODO,

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Nope, fire pit or buried anchor are the best things I've seen done with a heavy truck brake drum. Run 3 long bolts through the lug holes for feet and put a grate over the hub hole and it should make a nice enough brazier / fire pit. Maybe a decent BBQ but it's pretty deep.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I don't like brake drums or wheels for pedestal stands I'm always kicking them but that's me, a lot of other guys like them.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Ah ok. Now I'm thinking I'll cut the lower hole larger and taller and just put a stainless bucket I have under the dump. 

it doesn't have to be stainless. I'm using a bucket that had a first life holding polyurethane for hardwood floors. Just metal bucket should be fine.

Drum use-dinner bell 

now I'm curious what that would sound like. 

Edited by M Cochran

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  If you can manage not to stub your toes on them, big rig brake drums and rims make pretty good pedestal bases.  They're heavy enough to be pretty stable, but they can be easily moved around just by tilting them over a little and rolling like an oversized oxygen bottle.  The brake drums are a little easier to move around, but the rims are more stable.

  I'm actually using a brake drum for the base of the forge I'm making right now, I just need to finish painting it and clay the pot.

  PRO TIP: If you mount a grinder motormotor (or something else that will vibrate a lot) to a rim, make sure to weld some tabs to the inside of the bottom and attach some nicely trimmed (about 1 to 2 inches oversized) conveyor belt (or similar rubber matting, use a sharp knife) to the base with elevator bolts.  It is highly advisable to do this before mounting the post for the motor.  It's easier to get at the nuts that way.  This little bit of extra effort will keep it from walking around the floor, and make it a whole lot quieter, and won't make it any harder to roll around.  I'll make a separate post in the tool section when I get pictures, which is gonna be awhile as the shop isn't open this weekend.

Edited by Quarry Dog

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I don't like brake drums or wheels for pedestal stands I'm always kicking them but that's me, a lot of other guys like them.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Might want to think about the hight of your forge, i find anvil high to be the best. Not only do you not have to lift or lower the stock between the two, but one acts as a stock suport for the other. 

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Some brake drums have a really nice ring to them if they are hung right.

 

It takes some raising and tuning to get the notes right but a steel drum is darned nice.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Well I cut some slots in the plate where some of the holes all lined up as was suggested to make the opening larger. Grab some cheap hardwood charcoal to get started even though I've got 250 pounds of coal sitting in the shop. First fire is extremely satisfying. Hammered out my first  project in about 15 minutes... a hold fast.

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Kinda ugly but i feel good about it. It works very well. 

 

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Looks will come later, at least that's what I hear :D. That's not bad looking so I wouldn't beat myself up too much if I were you. I have yet to make one of those but I've only had an anvil for a couple weeks now so it's just a matter of time before I finally take the time to do it.

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Nah I figured it would be rough but it works and that's what matters. Next i will be taking a shot at tongs of sorts. I don't like using pliers at all. 

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They have their place and the forge is not it. I've used some a couple times in a pinch but I'm not a fan. I need to make/practice making some more tongs myself.

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Might suggest a punch, drift and header first. Tongs are a bit more advanced. Try and leave your stock long enugh to hold the cool end. Then you have the tools to make tongs, and do the same, leave it long, so you can forge both from one bar then cut it in half (might need a hot cut chisel too ;-)

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Decent looking hold fast but it's going to mark your steel if you don't turn the foot a little more. A little curve works very well that way it'll always contact the work with a smooth surface. Then as you drive it home the arm can compress lower but the foot will still be in smooth contact.

I agree, punch, drift, header and hot cut are better starts, you'll need them all anyway though tongs are right up there.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Well maybe tomorrow I'll curve it a bit more. I do have a hot cut hardy that needs some re finishing. As for the others those shouldn't be a problem. I've got some nice used coil springs to practice with. 

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