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I Forge Iron

stainless steel to copper


FRODO,

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Welding product manufacturers provide this information on their web sites in specific detail. When you ask specific technical questions like this on an open forum you'll certainly get answers you can take to the bank. Unfortunately you'll get a raft of answers from folk who want to be helpful but don't know solder from solitaire. The manufacturers provide this information for folk so their products perform successfully as often as humanly possible. Some provide instructional videos as well.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Any silver solder will work, even stay brite, which is only .6% silver IIRC, Choosing the correct solder more depends upon application. How much pressure will your system develop? 40% silver is good for 3000 psi. when joint clearance is held to .002" or less. 

Stay brite is good for 300 psi if applied properly. When soldering stainless steel a strong acid flux is required (even if you use sil-fos) 

Sil-fos and stayclean would be a better choice in general for stainless. The higher percentage of silver in sil-fos vs stay brite make for an easier flowing solder. 

To be clear; stay brite would allow one to actually solder whereas higher silver content alloys enter the temperature range of brazing. 

The difference can be significant depending upon your product's end use. The more information you can provide, the better answer can be given. 

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I hope the Harris stuff works out for you.

I have had problems getting silver solder to stick to the stainless. This was years ago with a college project before I had access to welding facilities. The joint was under a slight tension and the thing would ping off every now and then, sometimes a couple of years between pings!

I have tig welded sulphur bronze and 316L stainless together and that does not to appear to have deteriorated in any way in an indoor environment over 10 years.

Alan

p.s. Having now seen Arftists post, my experience with soldering stainless was I think the old cadmium containing Easi-Flo solder and flux by Johnson Matthey.

Edited by Alan Evans
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I am working on a SS vessal,  and am attaching a male adapter to the side of it, 

my best bet,  is to drill the hole same size s the thread,,screw it into the tank.and solder the shoulder and thread to the tank.

low pressure steam/ actually vapor 

87088.jpg

87088.jpg

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I am a blacksmith and therefore by nature cheap....er frugal.:D s/s fittings are relatively inexpensive and small inverter type welders are very inexpensive . Typically guys don't want unknown Chinese brands and want expensive blue jobs, guess what those Chinese fellas actually know what they are about just like they are with the induction heaters. Just buy a cheap inverter welder and add a torch and I don't think you'll ever regret it. Faulty jobs cost more than one imagines.

Alternatively have you looked at using a male nipple with a nut either side and two velemoid gaskets (cheap, cheerful and effective) what more could you want ?

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grandma likes eggs,:D,,no gaskets inside tank,,cross contamination.

has to be a ss weld or soldered connection.  only material besides ss or copper is teflon tape ptfe

ss to ss soldering works as long as you tin.the ss first,  if you do not tin,,,it wont stick

i have a torch,  and a small craftsman wire feed cracker jack  box,,never have tigged, never tried it

 

 

 

Edited by FRODO,
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My brother has his own plumbing business and operates from here too. He has a major supermarket chain that wants him to do all their soil and waste pipes in multi-story stores in welded s/s. Big money work, not many plumbers geared for it. we have Bensomatic type torches but have never tried to solder s/s . I saw the guys in Cairo solder s/s shishas with solder irons using urine as a flux(made me glad to be a non smoker) 

You have got to try this tig thing it's a winner! I have a number  of large machines but for s/s the small inverter units are the way to go!  

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